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Posts by The Sandman

I can't remember if anyone ever got an OC using Turbo stable or not but it goes against everything I've done so far. For me Turbo is one of the first things I disable. Sorry I won't be of much help while you're running a Turbo OC. I'll stay with what I know with your rounding errors. If you can't run it stock without errors than default Bios settings are probably to blame, not a bum chip. If you're not aware the Dram voltage spec is rated for Intel which uses less...
Welcome to OCN!Rounding errors are usually a sign of a lack of CPU/NB voltage, Dram voltage or a combination of the two.The fewer values in Bios left on "auto" the better off you'll be. Asus Bios tends to over volt the CPU/NB (when left on Auto) which causes instability the same way as under volting.On my CHV-Z, "auto" lets it run at 1.4ish. My CPU/NB VID is 1.125v and is stable at 24xxMHz with 1.2v entered into Bios.I start with the CPU VID and the CPU/NB VID values found...
On my CHV-Z this is what I run with "OffSet Voltage Mode" enabled and C&Q works without issue.
Have you increased Dram voltage yet?Perhaps CPU/NB LLC needs to be changed (different from where you have it now) than play with CPU/NB and Dram voltage again.Reason for this would be in my experience "freezing" is usually Dram voltage, CPU/NB voltage, or a combination of the two.And it doesn't always have to be increased. Sometimes a reduction in either will show you the way.I will share this,for my 5117MHz the only thing I found to help (after 3 to 4 months of testing)...
I can't answer the ??? on loading profiles etc at boot but I can share that many have tried (unsuccessfully) to use FanExpert.It works, but seemingly not where you'd like it to.IMHO most run a fan controller. Some have PWM mode ( mine does) but even this isn't the answer for me.This is what I currently run http://www.overclock.net/products/sunbeam-pl-rs-6-rheosmart-6-fan-controller-5-25-bay-6-channel-30w-fan-controller-panel-blackHere's a link that may help you if you're a...
Unless you're running the ref clock at 260MHz or above there is absolutely no need to increase the NB Core. Bad move. Simply enter what you see when it's set to auto. Max you should ever need may be 1.3v and I highly doubt you're there yet It's easily confused with CPU/NB voltage but they're two completely different animals. Yes T2 = NB Temp. I still see the CPU/NB voltage going as high as 1.4xx, looks like auto setting to me. Also noticing the case fans don't have a...
2400MHz x 16GB is chip dependent, some can while others can not. FX only officially supports up to 1866MHzHave you tried increasing the Dram voltage? The voltage spec listed is for Intel which uses less voltage by nature.For the AMD platform it's not uncommon to need an additional .05 v to .1v to stabilize. Your fine till you start pushing 1.8+v.CPU/NB might also need a slight increase but you'll be chasing your tail with everything left on auto.Default CPU/NB on my CHV-Z...
Here's my Drop DOCP and manually enter ALL the specs written on the sticker on the Dram itself (Timing, freq and voltage).As far as 2400MHz, have you tried lowering the freq? Not all chips can run 2400MHz. Might want to try 2133MHz with slighter tighter timing for better results at least for testing and after stabilizing a bit than try raising it back up.AI Suite is known to be buggy. Best to remove it. This may help...
If I follow this correctly, why not just lower your CPU Offset voltage to compensate for the increases you see?If you were stable (using previous LLC setting) with what I'll call the "Original" Max under load Vcore, this is what I would shoot to maintain.This is one of the advantages of using LLC.Set it up so it's using the same max Vcore under load as before, than enjoy the slightly lower non stressing load/temp for every day use
My three rad loop (RX360, RS360, and EX140) are all intake (top, front and bottom) with one 140mm (Noctua Ind 2000) as exhaust.Granted my case has a huge mesh screen (240 x 280mm) on the left case cover window that use to support a 200mm fan but it is now removed. Now it simply allows anything the rear exhaust doesn't grab to simply flow out this area.Temps are great, never an issue. I use to be concerned about my front 360 rad exhausting onto the HDDs with 5/8" clearance...
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