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Posts by BadDad62

I'll say it again and again
Here in Australia I go to a Screw and Fastener place, Usually take a sample of what I want and they match it Usually cheaper and easier to get than computer shops.
This is what I was after recently http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8770/ele-419/FrozenCPU_Deluxe_Multi_Power_Port_-_12V_7V_5V_OF12.html?tl=g2c34s275 Lots of different ones here http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/c17/s285/list/p1/Fan_Accessories-Fan_Controllers-DIY_Controllers-Page1.html
I know this issue is frustrating but don't get discouraged Try bleeding again, Keep the res standing up to allow to air out with the top port open.It seems to stop when the air gets to the pump and has no gravity to to push more water to the pump.Has anyone told you that Quick disconnect fittings are very restrictive?
Can you group them in groups of 3 or 4 fans to more than one Molex connecter?
Prime will do that Gaming will never stress as much prime, Those are acceptable temps
Do you mead Push/Pull? Rad sandwich is a waste of time and fans for no gain
They made great sense in that they were still cheaper than new replacements.A Swiftech 240mm ($10) and a EK 360 that was new and leaked and was replaced with a new one but the old one sat unloved for some time then sold to me for $20.
What about a simple and FREE volt mod? http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/372297-Guide-to-the-7v-Fan-Mod Works for me
Barb = http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-G14-to-12-Barb-Fitting-Chrome_25460.htmlI've seen someone mod a H80 I think? The barbs on the rad and pump a not changeable so you'll need a small size tubing like a 1/4" ID and a small clamp for sealing it.You could even add a Reservoir as well which will require fittings to match tubing and threads on the res.Something like thishttp://www.overclock.net/t/647943/guide-h50-replace-tubes-and-res-mod
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