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Posts by cloppy007

To the OP: check if your motherboard is warped. Take pics of the TIM leftover in your block and cpu surface to check the spread pattern (and share!).I think seating correctness is mostly defined by the block's flow path and the CPU die shape.Intel stopped soldering heatspreaders with Ivy Bridge CPUs. Devil's Canyon CPUs (Haswell refresh) featured an improved TIM (or so they said), but they didn't keep on improving. See what you can improve by delidding (according to...
I'm really glad that both of them are working! Quite a pair of beats you've built!
Didn't know that... Where you got that from?
EK Evo is propylene glycol, I think that Swiftech HydrX PM 2 contains this too, and probably many other coolants.I had an issue with a bad Evo batch, but I've been running Mayhems ever since (>1year) and there doesn't seem to be any kind of issue. I have to my yearly loop inspection, perhaps I'll find something, but I'm rather happy given that the acrylic parts (res, cpu block) look shiny.
I've said this earlier, but I advice you to use Mayhems clean kit. Plus, they will be willing to help you sort out this issue.IIRC, Tygon is not trouble-free. They have (had) some product lines with no plasticizer, but others do. When Primochill LRT started to leach, many people jumped over to tygon, with different results. You might want to read this tubing test (TL;DR: Primochill Advanced LRT is fine, Mayhems' too).Finally, there is a magic, cheap additive that acts as a...
I don't think there's something with higher heat transferring capabilities that water (besides, perhaps, nanonfluids). See here. Silicon and hydrocarbon oils have less specific heat than water (reference), and, as others have said, you will need a different, more expensive, pump. Mineral oils have been used for submersion cooling for many years (usual setup, an advanced one), but I don't think there are many people running their main rigs in such configurations.
I agree, completely.If you want to go berserker with the blocks, try metal polish or bleach. If that's organic, bleach will kill it (it might turn black but you should be able to brush it away). Perhaps a powerful UV light might also kill it?
I would watch out when using lemon juice, as it's acid it might remove a bit of the nickel plating. I've only used that for copper, and ketchup too (instant!).
I like the X-750: seems very good and fits my budget.
I've had my share of gunk or whatever it was in my loop. Since I switched over to Advanced LRT (which EK sells or used to), I've had almost no problems. I'm also cleaning my loop with Mayhems 2-part solution.Here's what I got on my loop a couple of years back. Tubing was masterkleer.As for an EK spokesperson, let's try.../summon @B Negative
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