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Posts by cloppy007

First of all: those caps are in the way, look, there's a crushed one (top row, 3rd from the left)! Compare the clearance of your socket with my picture below. Is that a Gigabyte Z68X-UD5? EK says it should be compatible with your water block...TIM spread does not look good at all. You're even using too much tim, and the waterblock gets only a tiny fraction of it. Here's how it should look like (Supremacy + 3570K):And here's a view from the PCIe slots (warped...
You're free to improve it, or pay somebody to do so.Start by reading the Office Open XML specification, about 5000 pages.See why LibreOffice will never have 100% compatibility with that file format?PS: Open Document Format specification is a 102 page document.
Where are you located?
30 seconds... And how hot is it after 5 secs?Regarding water flow, the EK one is way less restrictive than your apogee.Now that you're going to remount, you could also mount the old Swiftech block (just the block and TIM , no hoses) and take a picture of both the CPU and the WB surface, to compare against the EK block.Warped motherboard... It could be because of a warped motherboard heatsinks (I had this, the heatpipe between both heatsinks caused the motherboard to warp,...
Wait. What are you benchmarking with? Can you share a graph of core temps climbing? (I use openhardwaremonitor for that). In my current setup, temps rise instantly to, for instance, 40ºC and then slowly climb until finding the plateau at 45ºC. If the problem relied on the inability to cool off coolant, the temps would keep on climbing (a flow or fan issue). If TIM was the culprit, your idle temps would be considerably higher than ambient, would rise instantly after firing...
I've had (still do) a 35X and it's noisy, you should be able to hear it over the fans.I have this mental checklist when it comes to heat issues:· Reducing pump speed considerably did not increase temps too much?· Same for fans? This should increase coolant temps and in the end, core temps.· Check waterblock. Perhaps the jet plate is not properly positioned or the base and the top are rotated?· Check TIM spread pattern (take a picture). That will help you determine if...
Looks like there's air inside. In this pic there doesn't seem to be any non-white spot (besides the acrylic insert): Have you run your look with the pump at 100% for a couple of hours? You should see instantly if there's an air bubble, turn the pump to 100% and it will move and split up. If that's not the issue, is the air coming out from the rad hot or cool?
May I ask how to remove the metal spacer?
If I had a Ryzen CPU, I would benchmark with different affinity settings, I'm fairly confident that will have a big impact in those games that perform so-so. If that's the case, an updated OS scheduler (or game) will be able to fix, or minimise, that.
yEs
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