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Posts by airisom2

I advise you to read around on blurbusters' forums. There is a lot of good information in that thread website that will answer any questions you have. I guess a good start for you would be here: http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=835
1. It reduces blur, so it shows the inherent flaws in LCD technology because of that. Run this with blur reduction disabled, and then enabled, both with your browser in fullscreen: www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail&foreground=FFFFFF&background=000000&thickness=1&height=-1&ppf=16&separation=1000 You should see with blur reduction enabled, a thick line going across the screen. With it disabled, that line should be much thinner, but the downside is that you have some...
I'm using blur-reduction 24/7 on my XL2720Z, and I'm not going back. There are no downsides except for two things: 1. Crosstalk at the top and bottom of the screen (you'll see some image doubling in those areas). 2. CRT-like flicker at low refresh rates with blur-reduction enabled. It'll give you a headache after a bit.
It won't affect GPU temps if you have it set up right. If you set up your typical air cooler in the stock configuration (intake air from first right fan, exhaust heated air out of the left tower, which then gets exhausted by the rear exhaust fan), you wont have to worry about your cpu heating your graphics cards. For the Enthoo Luxe, the best way to get the most performance out of your air cooler is to simply reroute the top 140mm fan so that it's in front of the intake...
Well, it seems like you're asking for an air-cooled setup. Putting quiet fans on an AIO basically defeats the purpose of having one, and you'll be better off going with something like a PH-TC14PE or getting a fan controller. I had a 280L and a PH-TC14PE, and with the same fans installed on both, they performed the same. So, you're not going to be missing any performance by going with top tier air since they scale very well with more powerful fans. And when you account for...
Go into advanced power options and set your minimum processor state at 0%. That'll get your clocks and voltage down.
Yup. For me, I boot CZ off of one of my flash drives, plug in my usb external hdd, select my SSD as drive I want to image, and select my external hdd as the source to copy the image to. If you get confused on how to use it, this guide will help you out: http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Clonezilla It looks complicated at first, but you're mostly spamming the enter key
Clonezilla http://clonezilla.org/ Use one usb drive to boot off of, and another to copy the image to. I use it with my OS drive, and it works just fine.
1. It depends. Some say it fixes the black screen problem for them (and the other black screen you get when gaming sometimes), and some say it doesn't work with non-reference cards. You might be at risk of ID mismatch if your motherboard doesn't like cards with mismatched ID's. Currently, there is no known list of what boards do and don't accept mismatched IDs, if the motherboard is truly at fault. I don't know if that changes if your card is locked, but from my...
Oh wait, mine is .007 too. Try using the Tri-X bios. It worked on a non-reference Vapor-X so there's a chance that it might work for a PCS+.
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