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Posts by doyll

Have you looked at Thermarlght coolers. The TRUE Spirit 140 Power, TRUE Spirit 140 rev.A, and Macho rev.B? TRUE Spirit 140 Power is almost same cooling and noise levels as NH-D14. TRUE Spirit 140 Power € 39,99* zzgl. Versand ab € 6,95* https://www.alternate.de/Thermalright/True-Spirit-140-Power-CPU-K%C3%BChler/html/product/1132761? TRUE Spirit 140 rev.A € 39,99* zzgl. Versand ab €...
To me a CPU that is running at 1.26v rather than 1.18v (0.12v difference) is definitely a voltage problem. 0.12v makes a huge difference in temps, even with big coolers it would most likely be a problem. This all means the motherboard bios is not what it should be.
Approx 89-95mmAttomsk's pics show both coolers Crucial Ballistix is about 30mm tall.NH-D14 is about as good as it gets .. especially if stock fans are replaced with high performance fans like TY-143.
So case is like an open box on a shelf? That changes everything. Could you take a picture of system setting in as it normally does with you standing in front of it. This will let us see what intake and exhaust flow will be like around it as well as inside. With no top I would try using most fans as intakes and everything exhaust out the top .. assuming there is nothing above the top to stop the upward movement of the air coming out. Heat doesn't rise, heating air...
@underground1 Beautiful build. The white on components really sets off the white case. What are your idle and full load temps? The back top fan may be more of a hindrance than help. It can't supply air to any component intakes and is mostly sucked out rear exhaust. This causes heated R1 exhaust to move down instead of out the rear exhaust. Removing unused PCIe slot covers may help improve airflow in that area .. depending on how many intakes you have.
The best thing is a cheap indoor / outdoor digital thermometer from ebay or similar setup like shown in case cooling link in sig. Then you can see what the cooler intake air temp actually is and determine how best to configure fans to get optimum airflow and best temps.
D14 will do you right. Silver Arrow SB-E is a little better than D14, but not by much. Make sure your case is supplying air at or near room ambient to the CPU and GPU intakes. It's not uncommon for stock cases to be 10-15c warmer than room.. sometimes even more. I try to keep component intake temps under full load at 2-3c above ambient, but 5c is fine. Link in sig about cooling may be helpful.
268mm is 0;05118 or 3/64ths inchs more than 10.5 inchs. Component sizing isn't aerospace precision. Not like building a piano. Somebody is likely to while you are measuring that precisely.
What miklkit said. Can you tell us what your system is? Case, fan setup, GPU, room temperature, etc. Links in my sig for case cooling may be of interest.
Haven't actually tested them, but performance is very close to the same. TY-147 will idle slower (650-1300rpm). New TY-147 A are even slower (300-1300rpm). If you want performance, TY-143 are 650-2500rpm. Same as TY-147 up to 1300rpm, but like Energizer Bunny, just keep on going.
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