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Posts by Himo5

 You can sculpt plastic sleeved cables with a fair degree of precision by threading 0.3mm nylon beading wire through the strands of the braiding with a needle. It is surprising how few stitches are required to make a cable rigid. They can be free standing, such as when connecting to a graphics card up through a PSU cover, or pinned in a variety of ways to the motherboard backplane. You can even use clear plastic sheet within a twin layered cable to produce shapes without...
Two added advantages of using a pull/pull configuration - especially when replacing the center screw with a smaller headed one, allowing part of the center fan to drop down below the heat sink fins - is the reduction of dust accumulated between the heat sink and the fans and an increase in cool air blowing over the RAM into the front of the heat sink and off the lower face of the RAM nearest the CPU through the part of the center fan below the fins.
Yes, you have to be careful about sourcing a uniform set of whites or transparents.   Sometimes it won't be possible to get them all the same.   Most of the connectors in this red set were either plain or cream white but the 18 and 24 pin female and 4 and 5 pin male Mini-Fit Junior connectors marked A-E were transparent.   Even if you think you have the right mixture you can be fooled by the material used, like the USB connector, F, which was just a plain white but...
It will be difficult to source white connectors through a modding shop, but suppliers like RS Components offer these connectors in multiple piece packs at low prices. The only source of white inline SATA connectors I know of. however, is ModDIY. Usually they are white or transparent, but they take a dye like Jacquard Idye Poly very easily (often within a minute if the dye bath is very concentrated).  
Best of luck with your chain of 18 or $9000 worth of 10TB IronWolfs
When I've had contact problems with 18awg SATA powerstrips the answer has always been to punch them down more firmly, even when all 5 bays are in use. Somewhere beyond 6 VelociRaptor 10Krev HDDs there might be voltage drops but Seasonic supply 4pc 18awg SATA cables with their Gold PSUs which I don't think they would do if there was any danger of marginal functionality.   I wasn't very confident of keeping the wires intact myself when I first took up this method but I...
I've had trouble with lost drives on 18awg powerstrips before and I certainly wouldn't fancy punching 16awg wire 90 times.
The point about removing the insulation is that you can then squeeze the STRANDS in the wire so that they aren't cut by the jaw blades when you coax them into position.   This removes the chance of insulation getting completely between the jaws and the wire and breaking the contact.   It is also much easier to disassemble the power strip without spoiling the wires.   Apart from the end connector this spread insulation method removes the dangers of excess force from...
My cases all have 5-bay drive cages, but I have used a 250mm connection tail on them before and had no trouble sliding the insulation along the wire.   I do all my work with standard UL1007 hook up wire usually from ModDiy or Ebay and I find that the insulation on 16awg wire provides the best fit you could get in the plastic bushing on SATA inlline connectors because when it is squashed there is a tight fit between the bottom of the bush and the bottom of the connector cap.
I prefer to use a spread insulation method with inline Sata powerstrips (apart from the end connector), not only to avoid broken filaments in the wire but also to get that difficult combination of exactly parallel connectors exactly spaced across the drive cage. The end connector and the crimp at the other end of the wire then clamp the connectors between the insulation.   I also prefer to use 5x1pin Mini-Fit Male and Female connectors to make the powerstrip...
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