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Posts by TLHarrell

My current bending rig is actually using a salvaged stove coil. It's wired directly to 110v AC through a Dremel speed control (analog one from decades ago). As you can imagine, unrolling and getting a stove coil truly straight is a right pain in the rear. It took me the better part of an entire afternoon. Nice thing about it though is it's very even heat production. The resistance wire is inside, then there's sand around it, and a thin steel tube shell. You want a fairly...
I just got my hands on one of these. Looking forward to making something truly awesome out of it.
Yes, with a nichrome wire you'll need a method to dial in your voltage. As I've stated in the past this gets really important if you're working with white acrylic as it'll turn yellowish if you overcook it. I have some nichrome wire on a spool but haven't gotten around to setting up version 2 yet. Something about having a CNC and a laser and not enough time for both, and I just bought a 3D printer. I am going to have way too much fun.
So I figured you'd all like to see how this stuff gets lighted. CNC cut and laser engraved 1/8" clear acrylic diffuser. Added side emitting LED strips and wiring, slipped black ziptie into the 0.045" slots between color segments. Added metal foil duct tape to the back side and edges. Lighted up! The face where it is laser engraved lights up brightly.
Some velcro on top of the PSU would work quite well. The PSU covers I make are a really tight fit to get in place, and they pretty much stay where you put them. Really depends on how much slack you leave around them.
Almost. That is still colored frosted. What you want is completely clear, no color to it at all. Like this:http://www.delviesplastics.com/p/118_Frost.htmlThat is my favorite online plastics supplier in the US. Not sure if it's cost effective where you're at, but worth looking around at their catalog.Yes. When you paint the back side, it doesn't matter too much what the paint surface looks like. Since it's against the clear smooth side of the acrylic it'll always look...
I use 1/8" (3mm) for PSU covers. Thinner would be a bit too light for that application. Those links might not be what you're wanting, or they might be. That looks like translucent white. It's not frosted on the outside, it has white mixed in with the clear and then cast into a sheet. I usually refer to that as "milk white". The two faces are both still shiny. If you're going to paint the backside white, it'd actually be a really interesting effect as you'd see a deeper...
Easy way to do the masking for the circuit patterns is to find very thin masking tape and do the lines by hand. It can be found with drafting supplies and in hobby shops for RC car bodies. For circles, get a punch. When running tape lines, stretch the tape slightly before rubbing it down. Make sure it's rubbed down well. For turning corners, cut about 3/4 of the way across the tape with a sharp knife (on the inside of the bend), then while holding the tape in place with...
I do occasionally. Haven't had much time lately to do PSU covers. Mostly I'm supplying parts for my buddy's modding business and developing new products.
Looks to me like the power section is on one area of the board, then some unpopulated stuff, then the stuff for the receiver. I can't read the markings on the two chips, but I'd bet real money that one is some sort of serial to USB and the other is for short range radio. The antenna is totally obvious. Hard to tell how many traces go from the power side to the receiver stuff, but I bet if you were to spend some time tracing, you'll find very few. If there's only two (and...
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