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Posts by TLHarrell

Game looks gorgeous. I'm in.
Yes, you can PWM control LEDs. I haven't done it myself though. Check the voltage output of the controller and make sure it's 12 volts at 100%, not 5 volts. If it's 5 volts, it's still possible, but you'll need to use a transistor to switch the current (one that is capable of 12v operation and can switch fast enough, drive the signal side from your 5v output).
The blue LEDs in RGB strips, and blue LED strips in general seem to have a very strong effect on UV acrylic (tested by myself on red, green, blue and orange uv acrylic). I have not tested it on uv reactive cables, tubing, coolant and other things so cannot confirm there. I use blue LED strip in my build to cause uv orange acrylic to produce all my case lighting. I also have actual UV LED strip (3528 size, 120 LED per meter, 3 per inch).
The inexpensive ones from China are all IR. They are very simple to hide within your case. There's a little tail with an IR sensor on it. That needs to be somewhere you can hit it. Corner of a window works great. For Bluetooth control, you're probably going to need to roll your own controller and software with something like an Arduino. Not hard, but takes a bit of learning to do. (I'm not there yet.)
That rad would help my laser cooling loop really well.
Don't even need to power on the PSU, just plug it into a grounded three prong outlet. This supplies a channel to ground to the PSU casing. Use that to discharge any static.
ESD wristband is always a good idea when building a system. If you don't dissipate static, the damage can be incredible at chip level. Looks like nuked by lightning. If you don't have one, I highly recommend plugging in your PSU and touching it's casing (grounded) before touching other components (motherboard, cards, drives, etc.) As far as the case goes, don't worry about the minor static buildup. It will be harmless to your components and should remain dissipated...
They need to be mounted to a proper heatsink, and I'd highly recommend some serious diffusers or you'll blow your eyes out. I prefer low level lighting, not replacements for car headlights.
1. Don't ever use a circular saw on acrylic unless you have a 90 tooth or better carbide tipped blade. Blades for general woodwork will shatter it.2. Use acrylic knife to score/snap your sheet to the final size.3. The router could be used, but you need a single o-flute cutter for it, and you'd need to sort out a template.4. Dremel is not the best choice due to cutter speed. It tends to do nothing more than melt into goo and make bad quality cuts.5. Jigsaw will do for the...
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