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Posts by TLHarrell

Looks like fun. In.
Yeah, I actually swapped out the fans between cases so that one had white blades and one had clear. Bizarre that you can only get the white bladed ones /with/ a case.
NZXT sells fans with a separate LED power input on them. I just used some in a couple Phantom cases.
Probably they didn't populate something on that board. I'd consider just making up a harness with LEDs on it that wires to a molex, sata or another power wire just for the LEDs rather than trying to wire to the board in the fan. Good thing with these fans is they have the LED holes already. I'm going to be doing the same for my Rinzler build.
Yeah, don't connect more LEDs to the PWR LED header on your motherboard. It'll draw too much current. 1-2 is fine. 10 would be bad. Attaching to any molex or SATA power connector will do exactly what you need it to do- light up when the system is on. Use 5v and get the proper resistors for each LED. Use http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz to calculate.
Any woodworking shop should have a hand router. My drill press has a depth stop, and I can set it to hold a set height. But the issue with a drill press is that the quill is not designed for a radial load, only vertical centered on the shaft. A hand router is designed for the kind of load you would be putting on it. Dremel used to make a router attachment. I still have one for mine, but Dremels are fiddly and underpowered for stuff like this. Acrylic + Dremel = Headaches....
Sounds pretty good to me, except I'd add a couple things: 1. Leave the internal steel support short enough that it remains internal to the case. Let the acrylic run all the way to the front edge. 2. I'd use a router to create an extra tab, half the panel thickness on the edges of the acrylic (only where the tab can be inside the case), and a matching routed slot on the back of the aluminum. The acrylic can then be held in place by the tabs and optionally some thin 3M...
I'd go with the Krylon. Lightly sand the top, and a bit extra sanding on the scratches with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, using plenty of water. Take off all other panels. Paint the entire top of the case. If you try to just touch it up, it will be noticeable.
Here's what strips look like up close: Notice the cut lines between each segment (usually three LEDs to a segment)? Cut there. Scrape off the epoxy (if waterproof strip) that covers the solder pads (copper pads either side of cut line), and solder on the wires you need. In the case of single color strip, you only need two conductor wire and you hook that up to 12 volts. If you want to place several sections of strip in different places around your case, you can simply...
I'd use either a piece of aluminum thick enough to tap some threads through (about the same thickness as your panel), or a piece of 0.040" steel if doing rivets. I wouldn't use acrylic as a structural member unless it's minimum 1/4" thick and has a backer of some type for any fasteners. Try to push a pop rivet through acrylic and you're looking for trouble. It also hates countersunk fasteners. It'll fracture from the stresses created. If you wanted to do something where...
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