New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by barracks510

 Thanks! I intend on finishing it this month. I think it has been a year since I started.
 Yep! My physics class has finally started to cover electricity and the PWM controller makes a whole lot more sense.   It's definitely something I want to build for this project.  
Good job! Congrats! Now, raise those multipliers!
Technically, the order of wires does not matter as long as the correct voltages are delivered, correct?    For example, to eliminate double wires on a PSU, you could easily do this:    Or does that not work, because every wire has a corresponding ground?
The way you manage your fittings is like magic. I could never come up with such an awesome layout like that.
Alright. Sorry guys. I have been quite busy to keep up with everything, but with a school break nearing, I finally have some time.  My watercooling gear arrived some time ago, now, I'm in the process of flushing rads, cleaning blocks etc.    Some Pics:            I may actually change my plans and go with a Caselabs S5, but I haven't decided yet.    Sorry for those that I have kept waiting, I hope this will satisfy you until the next updates. 
That setup will not fit in the Black Hawk without massive modding. This kit will work better for you. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20926/ex-wat-266/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX280_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html Later you can add a 140mm rad to the back, when you have the budget. Even a simple watercooling setup will outperform the H100 or H100i for the same budget. The AIO kits are sold solely for convenience and offer...
Keep the pump below the res and you should be fine. Like you stated, this may be a problem with the Drive II as on a standard ATX case, its pretty high up there.  Splitting the block and the pump would solve this problem.    Here's one concept that I think you should remember, RES SIZE IS IRRELEVANT. The additional water in the res means it takes MORE time to reach the SAME maximum temperature. This is because for every extra mL of water you add, it requires about 4.1...
It depends on the wattage of the fans. Generally speaking, you can find the amperes (A) that the fan uses on the back sticker.  Multiply this number by 12, and you will get the wattage.  The wattage is cumulative, so if you have two fans drawing 3 watts, the pull on the fan header is 6 watts. On a typical motherboard, you should keep the draw below 30 watts; however, some ultra high end boards can provide 75.    One thing to remember is that there is a start-up wattage...
10 feet is usually plenty for a loop like that. A Q connector needs 4 fittings. I don't really understand your draining plan, but if you are confident it should work, go for it. But, buy an extra barb fitting just in case.
New Posts  All Forums: