Pentium D 805 Volt Mod - Overclock.net

Perry · 03-26-07

Well,

Since I have too much time on my hands and no options in my BIOS I think it has finally come to this. Volt modding my 805.

This thing is a proven power house (not to mention able to heat house) when you can up the voltage and I cannot get above 3.2Ghz unless I do. The RM Clock utility shows my default voltage as 1.337. Another OCN member with an 805 is showing at 1.338. Since neither voltage is covered in the steps listed in the VR-Zone article (http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=3931&s=8) I'm going to go with the one that's the closest, 1.335 and mod it so the default will now be 1.45.

This may not be the place to discuss this but I'm also planning on modding the CPU so the default FSB is now 800mhz instead of 533mhz. If anybody has any insight or any experience with either of these mods, I'd love to hear it. I've included a shot of what I plan to do. The layout is as if the CPU had the pins/pads facing up at you.

If I screw this up, I'm going to be shot since I don't have the money to replace anything should it go KA-BOOM!

I should also note that even though the shot shows a 'pencil' mod, I'll be using a conductive ink pen for the actually modding. Poor choice of words on my part.

***EDIT***
I think that I may have the voltage mod in the wrong location. According to some shots on the VR-Zone website, it should be on the opposite corner. Can anybody confirm this?

thehybridpyro · 03-26-07

im definatley looking at this, if you can raise the stock FSB to 800, and if its stable without the volt mod this could be most excellent

Perry · 03-26-07

From what I've been told, the 666 mod of shorting out the BSEL1 down by BSEL2 and 0 will work without any voltage modifications. That will be the first thing I'll try since it's easily reverseable - simply remove the electrical tape.

Now judging by your motherboard, you can increase the voltage as needed via the BIOS so you won't really have to worry about doing the voltage mod portion. Just the actual shorting and penning of the BSEL connectors.

As soon as I get some electrical tape I'll let you know how the 666mhz FSB mod goes. If everything goes well, I'll pen the rest.

I just hope I have enough thermal compound to reseat the heatsink three times. Once when the 666mhz mod is done, again once the 800mhz mod is done and again if I need the voltage modification to keep everything stable.

I'll redo the diagram tonight so that it accurately shows the position of the voltage modification as well.

My biggest worry is the heat. I know that this processor has a fail safe and the system will shut off (hopefully) before any real damage is done but if the heat is too much under load, the mod will be essentially useless.

This may mean a possible lapping of the processor. I don't -think- I'll need to lap my heatsink...plus it would sure be a shame to mess up the mirror-finish titanium surface.

Perry · 03-26-07

Ok, it's going under the knife so to speak.

667mhz mod coming up.

Perry · 03-27-07

So here we go.

The before shot.

Your weapons of choice. Some high quality rubbing alcohol (90% will do) and cotton swabs to remove the old thermal compound and keep your whites their whitest, some electrical tape to mask the BSEL1 pad and some scissors since you don't want to use your teeth. Savages.

Here she is. A tangled mess. It isn't pretty but it gets the job done.

And here's the heatsink separated from the rest of the rig. Umm...notice the awful thermal compound application I did the last time around. Uneven coverage and air bubbles. I'm not so much worried about uneven coverage since the center of the IHS is where most of the heat comes from but the air bubbles...I can do better than that.

Another shot of old thermal compound on the CPU.

Ahhh...all nice and clean. I like shiny things.

And now the CPU is all clean. Right after this shot my batteries died, which prompted my next shot.

Refreshments! Pepsi and some rye!

The underside of the CPU. Nothing big there.

Ahh...here's the good stuff. It's hard to tell see but that's all that was used to mask the pad. I had to call in Mr. Tweezers to give me a hand.

If you look really closely you'll see that I've covered over BSEL0. Sorry for the picture quality but you get the idea.

And now we'll put everything back to how it was, slap on some good ol' Cooler Master Nano goop type stuff and whatever...

Et voila! In all of it's Alienware ripping off glory. I told you guys my case was ugly but you wouldn't listen.

Now I'm sweating a bit hoping that it'll post...WHAM! ****! It's hard to see but this is proof that I'm not the brightest bulb in the lamp. CPU fan error. That's right. Connect the CPU fan to the header before you close it up.

Alright! We're in business! Everything loaded without any problems.

And the after shot.

That's right. NOTHING CHANGED! ***?!

I'm going to have to check into this a bit further. I've heard some people say that doing this mod didn't yield any results. I'm going to have a peek through my BIOS as well to see if Everest and CPU-Z just aren't reading things right but since my BIOS is lacking in just about everything, I don't expect to find much. I'll also email our very own CL3P20 and the guy from the AnandTech forums to see if they have any ideas...tomorrow.

Cait Sith Cat · 03-27-07

Did you pencil the BSEL0 + BSEL2 pins?

I don't really need to do this mod though *cough* >_>

Perry · 03-27-07

I didn't do that yet since I don't have the conductive ink pen. Plus the person I was speaking to from the AnandTech forums said that he was running his FSB at 667mhz by using this simple mod. He then penned BSEL0 and 2 together and performed the voltage modification to give him some extra juice.

I was under the impression that you could at least raise the FSB a bit without going forward with the next step.

Perhaps I was misinformed.

Any pointers?

Also, should I remove the electrical tape from BSEL1? Will it do any damage if I leave it there? I think I only have enough thermal compound for 1 application so I'd rather leave the heatsink alone if at all possible.

***EDIT***
CL3P20 has told me that covering over BSEL1 isn't even needed so as soon as I pick up a conductive ink pen, I'll give this another shot.