General Lapping Information - Page 8 - Overclock.net

Tatsuo · 10-30-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10acjed

Well we recommend just lapping the cpu (not the side with the gold circles) and the heatsink...

We dont recommend doing fingers, although i heard it does help if you dont have oil or detergent the blood will act as a good lubricant

Ok i'm assuming i'll get flamed for asking this, but here it goes anyways...
Always wondered why people would do that by hand instead of using any kind of electrical grinder?
Heat? or static???(no idea if it even applies).
Just curious here.

onelivestarfish · 10-30-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tatsuo

Ok i'm assuming i'll get flamed for asking this, but here it goes anyways...
Always wondered why people would do that by hand instead of using any kind of electrical grinder?
Heat? or static???(no idea if it even applies).
Just curious here.

heat would be one issue, but being flat and level is critical here. I am not that you could keep your hand that steady as to evenly grind the top layer away. Also, you don't want to remove too much.

DiHydrogenMonOxide · 11-05-08

Wouldn't it make sense to leave it not mirror smooth so the TIM particles can contact both the cpu and cooler? Excuse my horrible skills in paint but here are two pictures I did to illustrate. And then if this is the case it would make sense to try and match the particle size to the size of the scrapes in the cooler and cpu?

leakyfaucet · 12-09-08

Well I guess that works, but I lapping a heatsink or CPU shouldn't take more than about 10 minutes.

Aaroman · 12-09-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by leakyfaucet

Well I guess that works, but I lapping a heatsink or CPU shouldn't take more than about 10 minutes.

o rly?

leakyfaucet · 12-10-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaroman

o rly?

Well maybe 15. Yeah, that's about how long it takes me. As long as you start with a rough enough grit, there should be no problems.

bk7794 · 07-02-09

what does followed by marking the mean? Will this also hurt the cooler where it won't be able to make contact with the cpu?

hurrp · 07-02-09

when i lapped my Q6600 i just used 600 until it was showing all copper then used 1200 to get rid of the bigger scratches. i cant get anything higher than 1200 where i live.

Shrimpykins · 07-02-09

I've always used this method from the first lap I ever did. It doesn't make since to try to get something flat (not shiny) using something that barely takes away any material (600 grit+). I don't use 200, I use 400 to start though. Then, when I have revealed all of the copper, I use a few more sheets of 400 to make sure it's even (4-5) and then I do 2 sheets of 1000 2 sheets of 1500 2 sheets of 2000 and 2 sheets of 2500... By the time I am done with my 2nd sheet of 2500 it is flawless. I do not use water, it is completely... well I won't say useless but, it is not necessary and you don't have to give your cpu any time to dry... Just wipe it with some 91% alcohol and let it dry for maybe 5 minutes.

Shrimpykins · 07-02-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tatsuo

Ok i'm assuming i'll get flamed for asking this, but here it goes anyways...
Always wondered why people would do that by hand instead of using any kind of electrical grinder?
Heat? or static???(no idea if it even applies).
Just curious here.

It would work with a machine if you had something similiar to what they make telescope lenses with (even though the machine they use makes surfaces curved)... Something that rotates in a circle and applys pressure to something on a flat surface... As far as I know you would have to either make one or pay a large amount of money for something like this though.

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General Lapping Information

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