vandassen

Ok, I'm just looking for some help, obviously trying to hit 4.0

the thing is my mobo limits me to about 1.392v and 1800fsb

right now I'm running 1466 x 10.5 for a nice 3.85 stable.

also curious how my other voltages may play into this... They are currently all set to default:

cpu v - (1.1v base) + (0.0 - 0.3) currently +0.275 gives me 1.368 on cpuz
mem v - 1.9
VTT fsb v - 1.2
nb v - 1.24
sb v - 1.5

Anyone who can help me pass 3.9 or even get 4.0 that would be awesome!

currently P95 running is giving me 54*, 34* idle

TwoCables

54°C? Are you running the Blend test, or the Small FFTs test? If the Blend, then go by the Small FFTs test. The maximum temperature is reached after 5-10 minutes.

Anyway, try 1.3 or 1.4V for the VTT, and maybe a little bit more NB voltage too, like maybe 1.3-1.4V as well.

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vandassen

It's good to know about which tests to run in each circumstance. Thanks

Got that info about memory timings too, so I'll post my findings in a bit.

[EDIT]
I'm having trouble uploading screenshots, does it have to be URL embedded in reply or can I upload a file?

Anyways, I ran Orthos and Prime and still came up with 53* (now with small FFTs, before I was running blends) and that's after I unplugged a 120mm, turned the other 3 120's to low, 140mm to low, and CPU fan at 63% (1800RPM) I know no one really cares about my fan settings but I find it really odd that it runs so cool. Still idles at 32 & 34.

any thoughts?

PS I think turning those voltages up VTT & NB made it less stable... that's possible right?

TwoCables

Hmm. I don't know whether or not it's possible that turning up VTT and NB voltages can make it less stable, so I'll leave that up to somebody who knows for sure.

But, I think it's really awesome that the full-load temperature is saying that it's 53°C! I think that calls for a "YES!!" and a few arm pumps. hehe

Anyway, regarding regular temperatures as well as idle ones, here's some really crucial information that every overclocker needs to know:

Intel designed the thermal sensors for only one purpose, and unfortunately, they didn't have temperature-monitoring in mind (by people like us) when they designed them. Their sole purpose is to trigger the CPU to shut itself off when it reaches the Tj. Max of the CPU. Even worse, the sensors are only perfectly accurate when the Tj. Max has been reached. As the Distance to Tj. Max increases, their accuracy decreases. Worse yet, when the temperatures are approximately 50°C or less, the only luxury we have is to sy that the temps are simply below ~50°C. This is because at approximately 50°C and under, the sensors are so inaccurate that they're almost useless to us. Thankfully, almost everyone's full-load temps are somewhere above 50°C, but that doesn't mean that the sensors are instantly accurate above approximately 50°C. But they're accurate enough. Therefore, Intel recommends that we absolutely do not use these sensors as veritable, accurate thermometers. They also recommend even more strongly that we don't use them to report idle temperatures since they're more useless at those temperatures.

In other words, our temperature monitoring methods are extremely crude and rudimentary at best. But Intel has left us with no choice.

But even worse than all this, 45nm CPUs, like my E8400, commonly come off the assembly line with stuck sensors. That means that they will never go below a certain point. But once the temperature goes above that point, then the sensors begin moving. I think this also applies to the E7400, but I'm not 100% sure about that. But if you've noticed that yours will never idle lower than a certain temperature no matter how low you set the core voltage, then you certainly have stuck sensors. But fear not: laugh it off. It actually makes no sense to care about idle temperatures anyway since all that really matters are load temperatures! After all, that's what we always concern ourselves about, and that's usually the most important question: "what are your full-load temps?" But I grant you that, if the idle temps were like 60°C, then it would be a good time to say "hey. Um.... my idle temps are at like 60°C. Help!!!" But SOME CPUs have stuck sensors that never go below like 50°C, so that's why I chose 60°C in this example.

Anyway, all of this vital information and more is found in this thread:

TJ Max and Temperature Monitoring Programs

This thread also include a link to the very-important Real Temp Documentation page, which is also called the Real Temp Installation & Calibration page.

Anyway, here's how to attach JPEGs (do not try to attach 24-bit bmp's. It never works):

Click on the Manage Attachments button, as shown in the following attachment:



After that, this will appear:



Click one of the "Browse..." buttons, and then double-click the JPEG that you want. Or, just select it and click OK.

When you have all of the files you want to attach ready to go, then click the Upload button that is off to the right of the "Browse..." buttons.

When the upload is finished, you can now close the window. You can either use the "Close this window" link, or Alt+F4, or click on the X, etc...

That's all there is to it.

But if you want to place your attachments in specific spots in your message in the same way that I did above, then do this:

• Mouseover the link of the attached file you want to work with so that you can see the URL in your browser's status bar at the bottom. You can also do this in that little Manage Attachments window.
• Look for the part of the URL where it says "attachmentid=". Memorize the 6-digit number that is right after the equal sign.
• Put that 6-digit number in this code: [attach][/attach]
• For example, the 6-digit attachmentid of my first attachment is 114504, so I typed [attach]114504[/attach], and the above is the end result. Oh, I also put one space above and below the code using the Enter key so that it doesn't look ugly. heh

I think that about covers it. If you still have trouble attaching pics or other files that are supported by this feature here on OCN, then just say so and I will do my best to provide further clarification.

Oh, one last thing: press Alt+Print Screen to take a screenshot of the active window, and then just paste it into Microsoft Paint.

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vandassen

man, this is all great news! I'm thinking I remember seeing my temps as low as 22 but then again I was in the middle of the build and found my heatsink seated improperly at one point :O lol now that I'm running stable 24/7 I'm more confident that I'm not coming anywhere near the max 72.4* & 72* (from intel and evga) on my cpu or gpu and I'm not even above 80% of max.

I'll post screenshots soon.

thanks again

vandassen

self explanatory.. let me know what you think

still can't figure out how to hit 3.9 ....

Attached Thumbnails

 

TwoCables

72.4°C max for what? The CPU? That's impossible. The Tcase maximum (the Thermal Specification that I talked about before that is not measured at the core, but rather the top of the CPU where we apply the thermal compound) is 74.1°C. But that's not the maximum core temperature for this CPU. Again, that's not even related to the maximum safe temperature that we would have to worry about. The Tj. Max for the E7400 is 100°C, so that's essentially the maximum temperature you need to worry about. However, it doesn't mean that you can have stability with load temps at like 85°C or 90°C!

And what's the maximum 72°C rated for? The GPU? Again, that's impossible. GPU cores can take much more than that.

Oh, and finally: as I explained, idle temps are inaccurate, and almost nobody should even be looking at their idle temps unless they're extremely high, such as approximately 60°C or so. I mean, an idle temp showing as 22°C is likely extremely inaccurate. After all, that's basically room temperature.
Have you ever tried using Real Temp? I think you might like it!

Anyway, those core temps look pretty damn good for the AC 7 Freezer Pro. I think a part of it has to do with the fact that you have the Antec 900!

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madmike0408

bump your voltage up some more and set your multi to 10 and your bus speed to 400. thats 4ghz. add a bit of term and add some MCH voltage and you should be running at 4ghz no problem.

TwoCables

How does "term" and "MCH" translate to the XFX 750i SLI Extreme? I think "term" is the "FSB Voltage", or "VTT", and "MCH" is probably "SPP", since I think the MCH is the north bridge.

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madmike0408

Yeah, I forgot he was talking about that board. it's VTT and SPP i think. not sure, I don't have one to attest for sure.