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Old 07-10-09   #11 (permalink)
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Adjust Real Temp's Tj. Max to 85. It's currently set to 90, which is wrong for the E6320. Actually, the Tj. Max is closer to 80°C, but it's better to error on the high side just for fun.

Btw, Windows 7 FTW!
__________________
vDroop: Do not tamper with it. Source #2: Page 5, Page 6.

The Truth about Temperatures and Voltages

FYI: I'm a guy.

System: The Blue & White LED Special (born on 3/12/08)
CPU
E8400 E0 @ 4.0 GHz, 1.336v (full load)
Motherboard
EVGA 680i (122-CK-NF68)
Memory
mushkin (4 GB kit #996580) @ 5-5-5-18-1T, 2.150V
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 Core 216 (1792MB, 55nm)
Hard Drive
64 GB Falcon & a 150 GB VelociRaptor
Sound Card
X-Fi XtremeGamer
Power Supply
Corsair HX520W
Case
CM 690
CPU cooling
Tuniq Tower
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
7 Home Premium x64 (Retail)
Monitor
Samsung 2253BW
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Old 07-10-09   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Adjust Real Temp's Tj. Max to 85. It's currently set to 90, which is wrong for the E6320. Actually, the Tj. Max is closer to 80°C, but it's better to error on the high side just for fun.

Btw, Windows 7 FTW!
Ok, so do you think i could get this to 2.66? And also, yes, you can never go wrong with windows 7!
__________________
System: bad hardware sad problems
CPU
E6320 @ 3.00ghz 1.24vcore
Motherboard
Asus P5QL Pro
Memory
4GB G.Skill 1066
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 core 216 SC
Hard Drive
Seagate Barracuda 320gb
Power Supply
500 Antec BasiQ
Case
Rosewill Wind Ryder
CPU cooling
Stock
GPU cooling
Stock
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Old 07-10-09   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by consume View Post
Ok, so do you think i could get this to 2.66? And also, yes, you can never go wrong with windows 7!
With that CPU cooler, you never know. It might be possible, but it might also be pretty difficult. It depends on many factors, so the best thing to do is to just get to know the components by overclocking a little bit at a time.

But with a better stock cooler, I think 2.86 GHz should be within relatively easy reach.
__________________
vDroop: Do not tamper with it. Source #2: Page 5, Page 6.

The Truth about Temperatures and Voltages

FYI: I'm a guy.

System: The Blue & White LED Special (born on 3/12/08)
CPU
E8400 E0 @ 4.0 GHz, 1.336v (full load)
Motherboard
EVGA 680i (122-CK-NF68)
Memory
mushkin (4 GB kit #996580) @ 5-5-5-18-1T, 2.150V
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 Core 216 (1792MB, 55nm)
Hard Drive
64 GB Falcon & a 150 GB VelociRaptor
Sound Card
X-Fi XtremeGamer
Power Supply
Corsair HX520W
Case
CM 690
CPU cooling
Tuniq Tower
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
7 Home Premium x64 (Retail)
Monitor
Samsung 2253BW
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Old 07-10-09   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
With that CPU cooler, you never know. It might be possible, but it might also be pretty difficult. It depends on many factors, so the best thing to do is to just get to know the components by overclocking a little bit at a time.

But with a better stock cooler, I think 2.86 GHz should be within relatively easy reach.
Ok awesome, ill keep it at 2.5 until next week when i buy a new cooler. And also, should i set the voltage to the cpu as something other than auto? I noticed that in cpu-z it keeps moving. Should i set it to 1.4 volts or just 1.35?
__________________
System: bad hardware sad problems
CPU
E6320 @ 3.00ghz 1.24vcore
Motherboard
Asus P5QL Pro
Memory
4GB G.Skill 1066
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 core 216 SC
Hard Drive
Seagate Barracuda 320gb
Power Supply
500 Antec BasiQ
Case
Rosewill Wind Ryder
CPU cooling
Stock
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
Windows 7
Monitor
Viewsonic NX1932w
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Old 07-10-09   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by consume View Post
Ok awesome, ill keep it at 2.5 until next week when i buy a new cooler. And also, should i set the voltage to the cpu as something other than auto? I noticed that in cpu-z it keeps moving. Should i set it to 1.4 volts or just 1.35?
Using auto when overclocking is bad. One reason is that it will usually use more voltage than necessary thereby making it warmer than it otherwise has to be, and therefore it also releases more heat into the case than it otherwise needs to. And instability can be caused by too much heat. But be aware of two things that are completely normal:
  • Vdrop: this is when the actual voltage is lower than what you set it to in the BIOS.
  • Vdroop: this is when the voltage droops under full load.
But before I continue with this thought, may I ask you to fill in your System Specifications in your User Control Panel? It will automatically appear in your signature and it will look just like everyone else's. Here's how to do it:
  1. Click on User CP on the black bar at the top (it's one of a few different ways to get into the User Control Panel).
  2. Click "Edit System" on the left side.
  3. When finished, press Enter, or just click "Save Changes" at the bottom.
__________________
vDroop: Do not tamper with it. Source #2: Page 5, Page 6.

The Truth about Temperatures and Voltages

FYI: I'm a guy.

System: The Blue & White LED Special (born on 3/12/08)
CPU
E8400 E0 @ 4.0 GHz, 1.336v (full load)
Motherboard
EVGA 680i (122-CK-NF68)
Memory
mushkin (4 GB kit #996580) @ 5-5-5-18-1T, 2.150V
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 Core 216 (1792MB, 55nm)
Hard Drive
64 GB Falcon & a 150 GB VelociRaptor
Sound Card
X-Fi XtremeGamer
Power Supply
Corsair HX520W
Case
CM 690
CPU cooling
Tuniq Tower
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
7 Home Premium x64 (Retail)
Monitor
Samsung 2253BW
TwoCables is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-09   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Using auto when overclocking is bad. One reason is that it will usually use more voltage than necessary thereby making it warmer than it otherwise has to be, and therefore it also releases more heat into the case than it otherwise needs to. And instability can be caused by too much heat. But be aware of two things that are completely normal:
  • Vdrop: this is when the actual voltage is lower than what you set it to in the BIOS.
  • Vdroop: this is when the voltage droops under full load.
But before I continue with this thought, may I ask you to fill in your System Specifications in your User Control Panel? It will automatically appear in your signature and it will look just like everyone else's. Here's how to do it:
  1. Click on User CP on the black bar at the top (it's one of a few different ways to get into the User Control Panel).
  2. Click "Edit System" on the left side.
  3. When finished, press Enter, or just click "Save Changes" at the bottom.
Ok done! So what should i set the voltage to? 1.35?
__________________
System: bad hardware sad problems
CPU
E6320 @ 3.00ghz 1.24vcore
Motherboard
Asus P5QL Pro
Memory
4GB G.Skill 1066
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 core 216 SC
Hard Drive
Seagate Barracuda 320gb
Power Supply
500 Antec BasiQ
Case
Rosewill Wind Ryder
CPU cooling
Stock
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
Windows 7
Monitor
Viewsonic NX1932w
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Old 07-10-09   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by consume View Post
Ok done! So what should i set the voltage to? 1.35?
Awesome.

You can try 1.35V, but remember: it's all experimentation. It could be slightly more than enough, just enough, or not enough. So you can play with it until it doesn't POST (Power On Self Test) if you really wanted to. I like to think of overclocking as though it's a game.

Oh, and to continue what I was saying: that slight fluctuation is normal. I don't know why I interrupted myself before I said that earlier, but I did. lol
__________________
vDroop: Do not tamper with it. Source #2: Page 5, Page 6.

The Truth about Temperatures and Voltages

FYI: I'm a guy.

System: The Blue & White LED Special (born on 3/12/08)
CPU
E8400 E0 @ 4.0 GHz, 1.336v (full load)
Motherboard
EVGA 680i (122-CK-NF68)
Memory
mushkin (4 GB kit #996580) @ 5-5-5-18-1T, 2.150V
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 Core 216 (1792MB, 55nm)
Hard Drive
64 GB Falcon & a 150 GB VelociRaptor
Sound Card
X-Fi XtremeGamer
Power Supply
Corsair HX520W
Case
CM 690
CPU cooling
Tuniq Tower
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
7 Home Premium x64 (Retail)
Monitor
Samsung 2253BW
TwoCables is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-09   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Awesome.

You can try 1.35V, but remember: it's all experimentation. It could be slightly more than enough, just enough, or not enough. So you can play with it until it doesn't POST (Power On Self Test) if you really wanted to. I like to think of overclocking as though it's a game.

Oh, and to continue what I was saying: that slight fluctuation is normal. I don't know why I interrupted myself before I said that earlier, but I did. lol
Ok, i set it to 1.35 and now in cpu z it says the voltage is at 1.304 - 1.312. Should i just ignore those since its set correctly in the bios? Also, if a system doesnt post, can i still get into the bios to change things? Or would i have to reset the cmos and move jumpers around?
__________________
System: bad hardware sad problems
CPU
E6320 @ 3.00ghz 1.24vcore
Motherboard
Asus P5QL Pro
Memory
4GB G.Skill 1066
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 core 216 SC
Hard Drive
Seagate Barracuda 320gb
Power Supply
500 Antec BasiQ
Case
Rosewill Wind Ryder
CPU cooling
Stock
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
Windows 7
Monitor
Viewsonic NX1932w
consume is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-09   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by consume View Post
Ok, i set it to 1.35 and now in cpu z it says the voltage is at 1.304 - 1.312. Should i just ignore those since its set correctly in the bios? Also, if a system doesnt post, can i still get into the bios to change things? Or would i have to reset the cmos and move jumpers around?
Again:
  • Vdrop: this is when the actual voltage is lower than what you set it to in the BIOS.
  • Vdroop: this is when the voltage droops under full load.
So, don't ignore them. Instead, go by what CPU-Z says. Always go by what CPU-Z says because that's what the actual voltage is.

As far as when it doesn't post: it could depend. With my motherboard, all I have to do is let it fail the POST 3 times in a row, and then it automatically (and temporarily) uses the factory defaults for the motherboad just so I can get into the BIOS. But it doesn't change my settings to factory defaults for the BIOS. It let's me adjust my settings, which I think is really nice so that I'm not left going "wait, so what were my settings?! Great, I totally forgot."

But there are times where you probably will have to reset the CMOS, although it's all a part of the game.
__________________
vDroop: Do not tamper with it. Source #2: Page 5, Page 6.

The Truth about Temperatures and Voltages

FYI: I'm a guy.

System: The Blue & White LED Special (born on 3/12/08)
CPU
E8400 E0 @ 4.0 GHz, 1.336v (full load)
Motherboard
EVGA 680i (122-CK-NF68)
Memory
mushkin (4 GB kit #996580) @ 5-5-5-18-1T, 2.150V
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 Core 216 (1792MB, 55nm)
Hard Drive
64 GB Falcon & a 150 GB VelociRaptor
Sound Card
X-Fi XtremeGamer
Power Supply
Corsair HX520W
Case
CM 690
CPU cooling
Tuniq Tower
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
7 Home Premium x64 (Retail)
Monitor
Samsung 2253BW
TwoCables is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-09   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Again:
  • Vdrop: this is when the actual voltage is lower than what you set it to in the BIOS.
  • Vdroop: this is when the voltage droops under full load.
So, don't ignore them. Instead, go by what CPU-Z says. Always go by what CPU-Z says because that's what the actual voltage is.

As far as when it doesn't post: it could depend. With my motherboard, all I have to do is let it fail the POST 3 times in a row, and then it automatically (and temporarily) uses the factory defaults for the motherboad just so I can get into the BIOS. But it doesn't change my settings to factory defaults for the BIOS. It let's me adjust my settings, which I think is really nice so that I'm not left going "wait, so what were my settings?! Great, I totally forgot."

But there are times where you probably will have to reset the CMOS, although it's all a part of the game.
So...is this normal? And if not, what should i do to fix it?
__________________
System: bad hardware sad problems
CPU
E6320 @ 3.00ghz 1.24vcore
Motherboard
Asus P5QL Pro
Memory
4GB G.Skill 1066
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 core 216 SC
Hard Drive
Seagate Barracuda 320gb
Power Supply
500 Antec BasiQ
Case
Rosewill Wind Ryder
CPU cooling
Stock
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
Windows 7
Monitor
Viewsonic NX1932w
consume is offline   Reply With Quote
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