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Old 04-11-07   #1201 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevaziah View Post
WARNING TO ALL P5NE-SLI OWNERZ:

VOLTAGE - if you're getting weird temps at low clocks etc...
AT STOCK, THE VOLTAGE CAME AT 1.3V ON MY P5NE-SLI AND MY TEMPS WERE HITTING 65 DEGREES UNDER LOAD.
GO INTO THE JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION OPTIONS, LOWER YOUR VOLTAGE TO 1.20 AND SET THE "VARIANCE" TO 100 MV. THE VOLTAGE WILL EVEN OUT AT 1.20V AND YOUR TEMPS WILL GO AS LOW AS 50 UNDER LOAD!!!!

sorry for the caps, i just had to do it. It can significantly lower your cpu's life expectancy. ANd I thought it was my TTBT's fault....
Temps are relative to
1) Ambient
2) Case Cooling
3) Thermal Meterial
4) Voltage

The statement you just made, Nev, is not true.
First, Auto vcore will be different with each different CPU chip.
Second, 1.3v in BIOS and 1.2v in BIOS w/ +100mv is the same thing.
I have yet to see any of that +100mv option reducing vcore.
Most likely all it does is add that 0.1v.
It is helpful in the circumstance that you reach 1.6v vcore and need MORE, then you drop to 1.52v or whatever and add +100mv, then you will be at 1.62v before droop.

To explain the temp/vcore in simpler terms: I have a chip that runs two 90nm Pentium 4's. I am running nearly a 1Ghz OC (2.8-->3.7) at 1.4v vcore.
Due to my case, the internal cooling, & my interface material, I am running 47C MAX load @ 72F ambient temps.

Quote:
It can significantly lower your cpu's life expectancy
As far as this goes, nobody can prove how long a CPU will live, or what temps do to them.
BUT, average CPU is good for over 10 years, and nobody uses them that long.
The best guess is higher voltage shaves a couple months off.
Think of all the old Nintendo (NES) systems still running. Those are OLD, and ran HOT.
They are still alive today Well, mine isn't. LoL
*Blows in game cartridge, damnit!!! Work!*
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Last edited by dpawl31 : 04-11-07 at 12:21 PM
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Old 04-11-07   #1202 (permalink)
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*sigh.. that's not my point.

The point is when I got the board, at stock it ran 1.3 V AND the plus or minus 0.100V. which means, when it would load, my board probly juiced it up at 1.4V, which i verified with asus probe, it was at 1.38V load.

So, I lowered the base voltage to 1.20. Now, with that plus or minus 0.100V, it runs between 1.10(never happens) and 1.28V (which im happy with).

How can you tell me that does not make a difference. The plus or minus 0.100 volts cant be disabled. I have the choice of that or AUTO and god knows how much vcore it will add when i choose auto

EDIT: i have figured out a long time ago that most of the time, for my motherboards, AUTO = maximum possible...
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Old 04-11-07   #1203 (permalink)
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Nevaziah, either you've got very different BIOS options than me, or you're confused.

There are two settings that relate to vcore. One is the vcore setting, and the other is +100mV.

Stock setting is vcore = [Auto] and +100mV = [disabled].
What you seem to be saying is that the auto voltage was higher than you liked, so you turned it down.

But what is this about the "plus or minus 0.100V can't be disabled." First of all, there's no plus or minus setting--it's just plus. It adds 100mV of vcore to whatever you vcore is set at (and is rumored to reduce vdroop). Any 'minus' you're getting from your voltage setting under load is just vdroop, which happens when any electrical system works harder (more amps equals less volts given a constant wattage).

So what dpawl is saying is it sounded like, from your description, you turned vcore down from 1.3 to 1.2 and then turned on +100mV, which should yield the same voltage. Hence, it shouldn't make a difference.
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Old 04-11-07   #1204 (permalink)
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the auto voltage setting work pretty good on this board. @ 2.7ghz my voltage fluctuates between 1.18v-1.3v depending on load. it will go up to 1.4v in auto but no higher when i have a higher OC say like 3ghz...

and yeah the +100mv setting simply adds .1v. i dont know why this is hard to understand, if its on and you have say 1.3v selected for vcore, your going to get 1.4v. thats the way its supposed to work and of course it will be hotter.
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Last edited by JCushing : 04-11-07 at 01:05 PM
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Old 04-11-07   #1205 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriBeCa View Post
Nevaziah, either you've got very different BIOS options than me, or you're confused.

There are two settings that relate to vcore. One is the vcore setting, and the other is +100mV.

Stock setting is vcore = [Auto] and +100mV = [disabled].
What you seem to be saying is that the auto voltage was higher than you liked, so you turned it down.

But what is this about the "plus or minus 0.100V can't be disabled." First of all, there's no plus or minus setting--it's just plus. It adds 100mV of vcore to whatever you vcore is set at (and is rumored to reduce vdroop). Any 'minus' you're getting from your voltage setting under load is just vdroop, which happens when any electrical system works harder (more amps equals less volts given a constant wattage).

So what dpawl is saying is it sounded like, from your description, you turned vcore down from 1.3 to 1.2 and then turned on +100mV, which should yield the same voltage. Hence, it shouldn't make a difference.

Good explanation REP+
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System: Can this board push the D higher?
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Motherboard
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Old 04-11-07   #1206 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCushing View Post
the auto voltage setting work pretty good on this board. @ 2.7ghz my voltage fluctuates between 1.18v-1.3v depending on load. it will go up to 1.4v in auto but no higher when i have a higher OC say like 3ghz...
this is exactly what i mean. exept load or not, my motherboard would ACTUALLY RUN the voltage ALWAYS at 1.38 (1.40 volts).
SO i too off auto, set it to 1.20V, then added the +100mv. which now it runs at 1.28 NOT 1.38

EDIT:

ACK, I JUST NOTICED TYPO IN MY FIRST POST IN RED!! CORRECTED!!!
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Old 04-11-07   #1207 (permalink)
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why not just put them both on auto.... for anything shy of 3.2ghz thats what i do
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Old 04-11-07   #1208 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevaziah View Post
this is exactly what i mean. exept load or not, my motherboard would ACTUALLY RUN the voltage ALWAYS at 1.38 (1.40 volts).
SO i too off auto, set it to 1.20V, then added the +100mv. which now it runs at 1.28 NOT 1.38

vcore does not get "boosted" under load.

AUTO vcore and AUTO +100mv gives you REAL high vcore, in your case.

1.2v vcore and AUTO +100mv will run 1.3v (1.28)
1.2v vcore and DISABLED +100mv will run 1.2v (droop to 1.18)

If you need post-droop of 1.28v, use 1.3v vcore and disable +100mv.

+100mv is really more of a distraction than anything.
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FOLDING ON THESE RIGS:
D820@4.2Ghz--E2180@3.33Ghz--3600X2@2.5Ghz--PS3

System: Can this board push the D higher?
CPU
D820 2.8 300x14 = 4.2Ghz (50%OC)
Motherboard
P5QC
Memory
4GB (2x2) Ballistix Tracers
Graphics Card
BFG 7600GT OC (Need recommendations)
Hard Drive
320 West.Dig. SATA
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Power Supply
Ultra X-Finity 600W SLI
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Antec 900 (See Gallery!)
CPU cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
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Old 04-11-07   #1209 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCushing View Post
why not just put them both on auto.... for anything shy of 3.2ghz thats what i do
I like to run the lowest voltages I can, for better temps.
So I orthos'd @ 1.4v droop to nearly 1.23v at some times
But it ran for 21 hours, so I'd call that stable!

Then again, I am running lower vcore @3.7Ghz than some of you C2D guys running at 3Ghz... go figure.
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FOLDING ON THESE RIGS:
D820@4.2Ghz--E2180@3.33Ghz--3600X2@2.5Ghz--PS3

System: Can this board push the D higher?
CPU
D820 2.8 300x14 = 4.2Ghz (50%OC)
Motherboard
P5QC
Memory
4GB (2x2) Ballistix Tracers
Graphics Card
BFG 7600GT OC (Need recommendations)
Hard Drive
320 West.Dig. SATA
Sound Card
Onboard (Use Digital-out to 900w Yamaha 5.1)
Power Supply
Ultra X-Finity 600W SLI
Case
Antec 900 (See Gallery!)
CPU cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
GPU cooling
Side of Case-Mounted 120mm
OS
XP-SP3/Ubuntu-Ibex/Win7
Monitor
19" Acer WS & 42" Plasma
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Old 04-11-07   #1210 (permalink)
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ya i have c1e and speedstep on so the voltage drops alot when the cpu is idle... i see 1.12v-1.3v normally with everything on auto.
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