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Old 03-06-07   #431 (permalink)
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True, I was thinking that the +100mv would take 1.34 to 1.35, lol. I didn't realize it would change it that drastically. The vdroop is about the last wrinkle I need to iron out, guess I'm trying that after work. Thanks.

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Old 03-06-07   #432 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pook View Post
+100mv reduces vdroop for the vcore.

1.45v w/o +100mv = 1.37v-1.41v
1.45v w/ +100mv = 1.44v-1.46v
Ah nice find pook, that'll help quite a few. As for me, im RMAing my ram, but the guys who im buying it from locally are letting me hold onto this stuff while they order me a new set, might be in tonight, might be a couple days.
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I would lap id the heat pipes n aluminum next them are uneven to get the even.

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Old 03-06-07   #433 (permalink)
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FINALLY OCN!! FINALLY!

I've finally become stable, i exchanged my ram and got the OCz DDR2 800 XTC Gold's, 5-5-5-12 rather than 4-5-4-15, which i see is no big difference, first shot at 800mhz in memtest was 100% stable! I'm so happy...its been a week of unstableness and unsettled kopi, but finally she rests, at a sweet 100k aquamark for stock everything Can't wait for the LGA bracket so i can get my XP-90 running
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I would lap id the heat pipes n aluminum next them are uneven to get the even.

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Old 03-06-07   #434 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pook View Post
+100mv reduces vdroop for the vcore.

1.45v w/o +100mv = 1.37v-1.41v
1.45v w/ +100mv = 1.44v-1.46v
I am new to overclocking....can anybody tell me what this means (baby-steps)?
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Old 03-06-07   #435 (permalink)
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referring to Vcore for your CPU. Vdroop is the term used when your CPU is under load and the board actually cuts the voltages back.
1.45v w/o +100mv = 1.37v-1.41v (vdroop BAD)
1.45v w/ +100mv = 1.44v-1.46v (Vdroop not that bad)

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Old 03-06-07   #436 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlr8 View Post
I am new to overclocking....can anybody tell me what this means (baby-steps)?
Vdroop, you set your voltage to 1.4, but it reads like 1.35 or something while under load. The reason it drops at load is because its sucking back the power. Thats bad, tough to get an accurate reading on volts. To prevent that you choose an option in the bios called "+100mv" and it stabalizes your Vcore.


NOW my question, should it be equiped even at stock volts?
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Originally Posted by mr.derp View Post
I would lap id the heat pipes n aluminum next them are uneven to get the even.

System: Kopisaurus
CPU
Intel e8400 Q810A198 @4.2ghz 1.368v
Motherboard
ASUS P5K Premium Black Pearl
Memory
2x2gb Mushkin Ascent 1066mhz
Graphics Card
XFX 8800gt Alpha Dog 512mb w/ TT DuOrb
Hard Drive
250gb Seagate / 320gb WD
Sound Card
Creative SoundBlaster Audigy SE 7.1
Power Supply
OCz GameXstream 700w
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NZXT Trinity (modded)
CPU cooling
Noctu NH-U12P w/YL D12SH 88cfm
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Old 03-06-07   #437 (permalink)
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vdroop is more of just the difference in voltage between the bios setting and the actual readout in windows.

If you set it to 1.3v with 100mv off, it will read around 1.22v in windows.
If you set it to 1.3v with 100mv ON, it will read around 1.32v in windows.

So, you gained that 0.1v.
If you set your bios to 1.4v, with 100mv OFF, it will idle in windows around 1.32v.
You really aren't fixing vdroop, nor does it kick in only when under load.
It just raises your voltage by 0.1v. So you can either use the +100mv, or just set your voltage 0.1v higher. Really makes no difference.

vdroop in my experience has been roughly .06 to .08 from bios to windows with this board.
That's pretty bad, but it is controllable.
Difference between idle and load vdroop is about 0.06v

As long as you know what amount of vdroop you have, you can account for it. If you cpu is NOT stable at 1.35v, but is stable at 1.36v, and your vdroop is 0.06v...

Take you LEAST stable voltage, 1.36v, add your bios-windows vdroop of 0.06 and your idle to load vdroop of 0.06 and you will come up with 1.48v

1.48v will be the BIOS voltage you want to set to stay stable.
That is assuming 100mv feature is off. (1.38v w/ 100mv on)
Esentially, since your total vdroop is around .1v to .12v, the +100mv will work. I personally would rather have a set # in my bios, more visual for me.

Hope this cleared some things up, and hope I am understood correctly!
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Old 03-06-07   #438 (permalink)
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Quote:
stabalizes your Vcore
No, it doesn't. It is just adding 100mv so that the voltage setting in bios is reading almost the same in windows. It is just adding the voltage to your settings, just so it doesn't seem like you are losing voltage.

Honestly, just set your voltage higher and expect the vdroop.
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Old 03-06-07   #439 (permalink)
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Quote:
the board actually cuts the voltages back.
Not really cutting back voltages.
It is just the stress of the CPU chewing up the voltage.
If you put 12v to a high power lightbulb in a car, your voltage is going to drop to 11.6v or something similar.

That is why cars really run batteries around 14.4v so when all electronics are on you stay above 12v to keep everything running.
That is also why when you install high end stereo systems like mine, you create such a draw on the battery that you need to install a "cap" or capacitor, to store more power, so your system doesn't kill you battery or alternator!

PS- w00t w00t for the triple posts! hah
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Old 03-06-07   #440 (permalink)
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Apparently I was a bit off with my personal numbers.
At 1.4v, I am at 1.34v in windows, and 1.22 under max load. (average load of 1.25v)
That is a worst case scenario of 0.18v, which is quite bad.
But, just up that voltage some more and off I go
Maybe since I was wrong about my vdroop, maybe that's why my 3.7Ghz stability was not all quite there!
I am running 3.5Ghz with a 2.8 chip and still below stock voltage (1.25-1.4)
Methinks it's time to go UP!
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FOLDING ON THESE RIGS:
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System: Can this board push the D higher?
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D820 2.8 300x14 = 4.2Ghz (50%OC)
Motherboard
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4GB (2x2) Ballistix Tracers
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BFG 7600GT OC (Need recommendations)
Hard Drive
320 West.Dig. SATA
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Onboard (Use Digital-out to 900w Yamaha 5.1)
Power Supply
Ultra X-Finity 600W SLI
Case
Antec 900 (See Gallery!)
CPU cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
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