Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L Thread

[wiggy2k7]

Ive just been playing Colin Mcrae DiRT for about 30mins and left HWMonitor running in the background, are these temps ok for my Q6600 @ 3.0GHz with stock cooling ?

[Rpg2]

Originally Posted by wiggy2k7

Ive just been playing Colin Mcrae DiRT for about 30mins and left HWMonitor running in the background, are these temps ok for my Q6600 @ 3.0GHz with stock cooling ?

Those temps are a little hot for 3Ghz. Then again, stock cooler sucks like no tomorrow.

If you're worried about heat, you should go and get an Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro off Newegg. It's cheap and efficient for it's price. Don't expect high end performance like Tuniq Tower or a Zalman 9700, but it's definitely better than the Intel HS/F you get with retail processors.

Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ezer%2b7%2bpro

If I remember correctly, it comes with some thermal paste pre-applied on the bottom of the heatsink. All you have to do is plug the pins into the motherboard and you're good to go.

If you're Q6600 is at 100% load when playing Colin Mcrae DiRT, then those are your load temps. I doubt that the game can cause the Q6600 to be at full load or anywhere close to it. Chances are, those temps are around 30-50% (just a guess). If those temps aren't when it's at full load, then your chip can still produce more heat. Possibly up to the low to mid 70's (Celsius of course).

To check the maximum amount of heat your chip can produce and how well your heatsink is doing, download Prime 95 and run a torture test with Small FFTs and enable round off checking under one of the drop down menus. Have Core Temp running to monitor your temperatures. When you think it's getting too hot. Stop the test.

Link to Prime 95: http://www.mersenneforum.org/showthread.php?t=9779

Just so you know, the Intel Heatsink/Fan is meant for stock operations. This means it wasn't designed to cool above the normal 2.4Ghz that the Q6600 ships at.

[wiggy2k7]

Thanks for your reply,

Do you need to take the motherboard out to fit the Arctic freezer pro or can i do it with the board in the case ?

Thanks

[Rpg2]

Originally Posted by wiggy2k7

Thanks for your reply,

Do you need to take the motherboard out to fit the Arctic freezer pro or can i do it with the board in the case ?

Thanks

If you went to the link for the Freezer 7 Pro, you can see that it uses the push pin style to lock the HS/F to the motherboard. Although it's not the securest, it does the trick.

Well, I remember reading that some people could install it without taking out the motherboard. That will depend on what you have in the case.

It'd be easier to take out the motherboard from the case as that would make pushing in the pins easier due to the extra space compared to the cramped space in a desktop case. If your case has a removable motherboard tray, that helps too. It shouldn't be too hard to take out the motherboard. Unscrew the screws securing it to the case, remove the power cables, and also any other cables that will prevent you from taking out the motherboard.

Try without taking out the motherboard first.

Also, download Prime and show us your load temps if you want. That would help us help you.

[wiggy2k7]

ive just ordered an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro.

cheers

[crackzattic]

Originally Posted by wiggy2k7

ive just ordered an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro.

cheers

sweet good luck with it, it will help alot

[DeRock131]

I was kinda answered but you 100% DON'T have to take the motherboard out. It the same sort of push pin assembly as the stock one.

The cooler will give you some nice headroom to go higher, good luck.

[Mercyflush64]

While you do not have to take the motherboard out to install the Arctic cooler it sure does make it a LOT easier. The motherboard can tend to flex when pushing down on the pins and sometimes that little click you hear when it locks can be deceiving. I've had it lock but not be completely through the motherboard holes. It only takes an extra 5 or 10 minutes to remove the board and lay it out on the foam piece that came in the mb box and install your cooler. You'll have to squeeze the fan assembly to remove it and maybe even the first stick of ram just to give you easier access to the pins. In doing this you can be definite that everything is secure and can double check and clean the rest of your components for dust.

The cooler works very well and the fan makes almost no sound spinning around 850 idle and around 1100 under gaming loads when my room is not too hot.

[wiggy2k7]

This build is only about 2 weeks old, ive read that the thermal paste on the bottom of the heatsink goes hard after a while. Do i need to clean or scrape the paste off the top of the chip when i take the heatsink off ? If yes, what is the best thing to use ?

Thanks

[rootnik]

My e2160 is easily overclocked to 3.0ghz without touching the vcore, boxed cooler. Temps hang in the 30s, the highest I have seen is 42. It did get in the 60s during torture testing. I don't even have a case fan in this box, and if things run this good I won't be adding one (can do without the dust).

Would I get better performance with the memory @ 1066mhz (5:8), or should I leave it 1:1 @ 800mhz?