Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L Thread

[thethriller]

Originally Posted by johnnyxp64

Gauvenator: just to make it clear, i was talking to specif mobo above that uses the latest mofset technology that keeps them more cool,
now, about the northbridge sencor, there is one, But i dont now if its in the north briedge it has to be very close to it cause when you se the "system Temp" in the Bios this is about 40+ degrees so it has to bee very close to NB.and its not like a cooler extra sensor it has to be onboard so we cant easy spot it.
also if you changes cooling system into the motherboard, (i sujest try to not Overvoltage thinks when overclock, you may achive what 10-20% more power, its not healthy for the system, a NB isnt as a CPU that can handle for few months 0.1-0.4v+ more power its very sensitive the NB and if it Burns out you are finished! So try not to remove the Cooling system, or At least keep the original safe in a place and change it VERY cerefully with a 100% compatible one, that doesnt need, to "stuck" over the cheep, and can be replaced in the future with the original if you have the need to use the warranty! otherwise they will not make use of your warranty 99%.


Guide_Timothy: i had a 650i from MSI and when i bought my Q6600 and tried to overcloack, well yes was not that friendly as its the new 750i!
my current Mobo (GA-P35-DS3 rev2.1) using bios F12, kick ass in overclocking friendly!

ok here is an analysis:
q6600 stock speeds - stock cooler - airfloating in the case with 5vfans- idle temp 48-50/maximum temp 66

q6600 3.00ghz - stock cooler ....bla bla bla idle:55-58 / max: 70+

q6600 3.00ghz - Zalman
9700 LED for Intel - Amd (http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=891827) difficult in installation if the board its allready in the case you have to remove it, and make sure the back will not "curb" from the scruing, and there is something (like a fat piece of paper) to protect it from touching by accident the case tetal back, if any (this case is the best with out the back and very very cheap)THERMALTAKE VG8000BNS WING RS 101 BLACK (http://www.e-shop.gr/show_per.phtml?id=PER.650633)

bla bla bla idle temp 40-42 / max 55-57 and VERY quit voltage of the fan at 7v !!!!!! (summer time)

so the answer is to get 3.0ghz you Just change the CPU fsb to 333x9 multiplier and manuall always set the PCIx at 100mhz and keep the memmory by using a ration 3:2 or what ever at there difault speed 800/or 1066mhz whet ever RAM you have, overcloacking the RAM its the difficult part and that where the System restart / BSOD etc etc, LEAVE the Voltages ang Timings of CPU and RAM UNCHANGED! the 3.0ghz its a peach of cake for this mobo and there is no fear at all! even with the stock cooler! and you can leav the SmartFAN on, i dont have problem with the rev2.1.


BUT all of you REMEBER overclong MORE than 25% - 30% and having a STABLE system for a while, doesnt mean the CPU and the Other RAM or NB chipsetts are not harmed internally!!!
silicon contacts are starting to melt and may touch on its other ofter months of use.thisis nannotechnology we are actually talking about, therei not enough space beetween anything in a cpu, or a NB. nothing is for sure. untill 3.0 from 2.4 its not an overcloacking its a walk in the park and harmmless, enything else above that starts to reduce lifecycle and will burn the CPU or make it not work in other speeds EVER again! i have seem many CPU OVER OVERcloacked and then they where behiving very strangly to other systems, not booting, not working at full stock speed, or worst couldent downclock

goodluck and allways dont Over do it! ex 2.4ghz to 3.7+ because we are using water cooling, so what? the front size buss can be damaged even in low temps!! ;-)

once more in english? I've heard people like this saying my AMD Athlon XP 1700+(1.467ghz) at 2.5ghz was going to die in a couple months. Meanwhile 5 years later it's still my server PC... on a microATX motherboard with wires in the socket to overclock. What exactly are you trying to say?

[johnnyxp64]

nobody said its going to DIE man, just that you have no idea if your CPU has been damaged inside and other function in other boards will not work when you remove it from this one!

CPU+Mobo+RAM are like human parts in a sench, they may work great together all over from the begging BUT sometimes something is not 100% compatible with the other and starts a chain reaction, or all those together doesnt perform to their maximum abilities!

damaging the parts after Extream overcloacking its a 50% possibility at least!
your 1.5gh > 2.5 IS NOT Extream its in the limits...the method you used IS extream and something could have gone very Wrong right?

i wish the best to your pc and you, and leave for an other 5years at least. ;-) (i mean the pc, you longer )

[evilevildead]

Mmkay... Just finished putting together my new computer. Figured out there's no onboard sound so I need to go buy a soundcard. But my problem is this: I plug an ethernet cable from my wireless router into the back of the computer, and nothing happens. No signals found, no nothing. Acts like nothing's plugged in. Settings are for autodetect, checked everything in the control panel I could find. Went into BIOS, claimed there was a cable plugged in with a 100mbps speed.. told it to boot ROM from chip, didn't help. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

I know it's not a problem with the cable or the network, because it works fine on my other two computers. And the green lights turn on when I plug the cable into the back of the computer.

Also, I can't get the HDD LEDs on the front of my computer to work. I've got a RAIDMAX Scorpio 868 case, and I plugged the line reading "H.D.D. LED" into the top two pins marked "POWER_LED". Top as in farthest left here ..::::: .... was this wrong? Or is this a problem with the case?

[PGT96AJT]

Originally Posted by evilevildead

Mmkay... Just finished putting together my new computer. Figured out there's no onboard sound so I need to go buy a soundcard. But my problem is this: I plug an ethernet cable from my wireless router into the back of the computer, and nothing happens. No signals found, no nothing. Acts like nothing's plugged in. Settings are for autodetect, checked everything in the control panel I could find. Went into BIOS, claimed there was a cable plugged in with a 100mbps speed.. told it to boot ROM from chip, didn't help. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

I know it's not a problem with the cable or the network, because it works fine on my other two computers. And the green lights turn on when I plug the cable into the back of the computer.

Also, I can't get the HDD LEDs on the front of my computer to work. I've got a RAIDMAX Scorpio 868 case, and I plugged the line reading "H.D.D. LED" into the top two pins marked "POWER_LED". Top as in farthest left here ..::::: .... was this wrong? Or is this a problem with the case?

Did you install the drivers for the audio and Ethernet?

As for your HDD LED, try reversing the wires because the polarity might make a difference.

[Kip69]

It does have sound and net, but you got to install the drivers.
Sound is realtec I think and the Nforce drivers should do the net. (or something)
Then go to MS updates and get the rest.

[motorpotor]

Hey I dont wanna sound late to the party but I have this board, with a e6600 w/ (gigabyte g power fan), 4 gigs of ddr2 6400, and a Visiontek HD3870 OC 512(The best buy special). I would like to know what are some good settings to oc it with in the bios. I got it up to 2.66ghz from the stock 2.4 but I dont know if the settings I stumbled upon are good. Ideas? I am also running XP

[evilevildead]

Oh geez.
No, I didn't install the drivers...

Reversing the wires, like plugging it in facing the other direction? I tried that, but it still didn't work.

[technogeek]

Originally Posted by evilevildead

Also, I can't get the HDD LEDs on the front of my computer to work. I've got a RAIDMAX Scorpio 868 case, and I plugged the line reading "H.D.D. LED" into the top two pins marked "POWER_LED". Top as in farthest left here ..::::: .... was this wrong? Or is this a problem with the case?

You have the H.D.D. LED plugged into the wrong one. The POWER LED is for the power on light (usually green). The H.D.D. LED connectors are on the bottom row if I can remenber correctly.

[evilevildead]

Originally Posted by technogeek

You have the H.D.D. LED plugged into the wrong one. The POWER LED is for the power on light (usually green). The H.D.D. LED connectors are on the bottom row if I can remenber correctly.

Thanks, that worked! The H.D.D. lights come on now, but the POWER LED cord is too short, it only reaches halfway from the front of the case to the motherboard. Hmm.

[Gauvenator]

Originally Posted by johnnyxp64

Gauvenator: just to make it clear, i was talking to specif mobo above that uses the latest mofset technology that keeps them more cool,
now, about the northbridge sencor, there is one, But i dont now if its in the north briedge it has to be very close to it cause when you se the "system Temp" in the Bios this is about 40+ degrees so it has to bee very close to NB.and its not like a cooler extra sensor it has to be onboard so we cant easy spot it.
also if you changes cooling system into the motherboard, (i sujest try to not Overvoltage thinks when overclock, you may achive what 10-20% more power, its not healthy for the system, a NB isnt as a CPU that can handle for few months 0.1-0.4v+ more power its very sensitive the NB and if it Burns out you are finished! So try not to remove the Cooling system, or At least keep the original safe in a place and change it VERY cerefully with a 100% compatible one, that doesnt need, to "stuck" over the cheep, and can be replaced in the future with the original if you have the need to use the warranty! otherwise they will not make use of your warranty 99%.


Guide_Timothy: i had a 650i from MSI and when i bought my Q6600 and tried to overcloack, well yes was not that friendly as its the new 750i!
my current Mobo (GA-P35-DS3 rev2.1) using bios F12, kick ass in overclocking friendly!

ok here is an analysis:
q6600 stock speeds - stock cooler - airfloating in the case with 5vfans- idle temp 48-50/maximum temp 66

q6600 3.00ghz - stock cooler ....bla bla bla idle:55-58 / max: 70+

q6600 3.00ghz - Zalman
9700 LED for Intel - Amd (http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=891827) difficult in installation if the board its allready in the case you have to remove it, and make sure the back will not "curb" from the scruing, and there is something (like a fat piece of paper) to protect it from touching by accident the case tetal back, if any (this case is the best with out the back and very very cheap)THERMALTAKE VG8000BNS WING RS 101 BLACK (http://www.e-shop.gr/show_per.phtml?id=PER.650633)

bla bla bla idle temp 40-42 / max 55-57 and VERY quit voltage of the fan at 7v !!!!!! (summer time)

so the answer is to get 3.0ghz you Just change the CPU fsb to 333x9 multiplier and manuall always set the PCIx at 100mhz and keep the memmory by using a ration 3:2 or what ever at there difault speed 800/or 1066mhz whet ever RAM you have, overcloacking the RAM its the difficult part and that where the System restart / BSOD etc etc, LEAVE the Voltages ang Timings of CPU and RAM UNCHANGED! the 3.0ghz its a peach of cake for this mobo and there is no fear at all! even with the stock cooler! and you can leav the SmartFAN on, i dont have problem with the rev2.1.


BUT all of you REMEBER overclong MORE than 25% - 30% and having a STABLE system for a while, doesnt mean the CPU and the Other RAM or NB chipsetts are not harmed internally!!!
silicon contacts are starting to melt and may touch on its other ofter months of use.thisis nannotechnology we are actually talking about, therei not enough space beetween anything in a cpu, or a NB. nothing is for sure. untill 3.0 from 2.4 its not an overcloacking its a walk in the park and harmmless, enything else above that starts to reduce lifecycle and will burn the CPU or make it not work in other speeds EVER again! i have seem many CPU OVER OVERcloacked and then they where behiving very strangly to other systems, not booting, not working at full stock speed, or worst couldent downclock

goodluck and allways dont Over do it! ex 2.4ghz to 3.7+ because we are using water cooling, so what? the front size buss can be damaged even in low temps!! ;-)

what is the stock voltage on this mobo's nb? Or is one of the ones that in the BIOS you just set +0.1, +0.2, etc?

Oh yah and when I get it, what stuff do I need to enable/disable in the bios (other than what's in the first post?)