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Old 11-02-08   #3481 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawaiian_geek View Post
slap a 40mm fan on the NB chipset.
works wonders dude

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But theres a high chance that Mr Gates is gonna sell these and show off the uber looking clocks but in reality they are pants.

But we shall see.

System: La mañosa.
CPU
E2160 @ 3.2ghz 1.46Vcore *lapped*
Motherboard
GA-P35-DS3L
Memory
2gb G.skill ddr2-800 NQ's
Graphics Card
BFG 8800gt OC
Hard Drive
Hitachi DeskStar 160gb SATAII.
Sound Card
Sb Live!
Power Supply
Antec EA430w
CPU cooling
HDT-S963 w/ panaflo FTW.
GPU cooling
Tt Duorb.
OS
Windows Xp pro.
Monitor
Samsung SyncMr. 2043nwx
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Old 11-02-08   #3482 (permalink)
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whats happened to the overclocking table on the 1st page ?
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My Rig

System: Gaming Rig
CPU
Intel Q6600 G0 @ 3.5GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L
Memory
4GB G.Skill DDR2 PC2-6400 HK's 4-4-3-5 @ 940MHz
Graphics Card
EVGA GTX 260 Core 216 Superclocked Edition
Hard Drive
WD6401AALS 640GB Black + Maxtor 320GB
Power Supply
OCZ StealthXStream 600W
Case
CoolerMaster 690 NVIDIA Edition
CPU cooling
CoolerMaster V8 + MX-2
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64Bit Retail
Monitor
Samsung SM2253BW 22" 1680x1050
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Old 11-02-08   #3483 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawaiian_geek View Post
slap a 40mm fan on the NB chipset.
#1 tip for this board in this entire thread.
$4 fan on NB
e8400 @ 3.6
MIT settings
vcore 1.262 (bios 1.236, 1.216 cpuz)
MCH stock
PCI stock
FSB stock
Ram +.01 5-5-5-12 1000mhz 1.87v
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System: Black Shadow
CPU
E8400@3.6/1.232 C0 (B#Q808A169)
Motherboard
GA-P35-DS3L Rev 2.0 bios F9c
Memory
2x2GB G.Skill 8800PI@1000 4:5 / 5-5-5-12 1.872v
Graphics Card
MSI 250GTS 512
Hard Drive
W.Digital WD3200AAKS
Sound Card
SB X-Fi Xtreme Music
Power Supply
Corsair HX520
Case
Antec Sonata III 500
CPU cooling
OCZ Vendetta 2/LGA 775 Bolt-Thru/AS5
OS
Vista32 SP2 RTM / Win7 X64 build 7600.20555
Monitor
Samsung 22" 2253LW
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Old 11-02-08   #3484 (permalink)
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Default I have a piece of **** powersupply

My PSU is a POS (lol) and when I turn my computer off, it still keeps all the USB and PS2 powered devices on like the lights and stuff, unless I switch it off from the back as well.

Obviously, if I'm going to automate it turning on and off, I won't be there to flip the switch.

I can't just leave lights on, the last time I just left the lights on thinking that it was okay, and because power was being drawn and there was no cooling going on, the PSU fried.

The reason I came here is there might be a BIOS setting that I don't know about to control this, if anyone knows about it, I would be most greatful.

Thanks for the long read guys :P

System: The 900 (still don't have GPU, using shit one)
CPU
q6600
Motherboard
Gigabyte P35-DS3L
Memory
G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) DDR2 DDR2 800 (NewEgg <$100)
Graphics Card
GeForce 8400GS
Hard Drive
Seagate Barracuda 320GB 7200.11
Power Supply
RocketFish 700w (Best Buy brand)
Case
Antec 900
CPU cooling
ThermalTake Blue Orb II
OS
Ubuntu 8.10 "Intrepid Ibex"
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Old 11-02-08   #3485 (permalink)
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Just buy a reputable power supply for your system.
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Intel E8400 @ 3.60ghz C0 stepping, CM Hyper 212 heatsink with stock fan & Scythe S-Flex "G" fan, Gigabyte G31M-ES2L motherboard, GSKILL 4GB DDR2-1000 Ram, CM 690 case.






System: Q9550 System
CPU
Yorkfield Q9550 E0 @ 3.66ghz
Motherboard
Gigabyte EP45-UD3P rev.1.0
Memory
4gb (2x2gb) Mushkin DDR2-1066
Graphics Card
ATI 600se
Hard Drive
WD 36gb Raptor, Seagate 320gb & 500gb Sata HD's
Power Supply
Antec Smart 500 watt
Case
CM 590
CPU cooling
CM Hyper 212 w/stock fan & Scythe S-Flex "F" fan
OS
XP Pro SP3
Monitor
Samsung 23 inch lcd tv
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Old 11-03-08   #3486 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pHreaksYcle View Post
My PSU is a POS (lol) and when I turn my computer off, it still keeps all the USB and PS2 powered devices on like the lights and stuff, unless I switch it off from the back as well.

Obviously, if I'm going to automate it turning on and off, I won't be there to flip the switch.

I can't just leave lights on, the last time I just left the lights on thinking that it was okay, and because power was being drawn and there was no cooling going on, the PSU fried.

The reason I came here is there might be a BIOS setting that I don't know about to control this, if anyone knows about it, I would be most greatful.

Thanks for the long read guys :P
I think this is a 5V standby voltage pulled by the motherboard. Most modern motherboards support wake on mouse or keyboard, and so they're kept on. Sometimes you can turn it off by turning off "wake on [everything]" in the bios, but not with this mobo. It may have a 5VSB jumper you can cover up to turn it off.

PSUs stay on unless you cut the power to them by flipping the switch on the back or turning off your power strip (i could be wrong about this) in my experience. I think it'd be close to impossible to actually fry the PSU by letting the 5V run.

e: just check and there are no 5V jumper pins.
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System: zie system
CPU
E2200 @ 3.1 (1.4v)
Motherboard
GIGABYTE P35-DS3L rev. 2.0
Memory
2GB Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X2048-6400
Graphics Card
EVGA 8800GT SC
Hard Drive
Seagate 250GB SATA II 3Gb/s
Sound Card
Realtek ALC888
Power Supply
Allied 400W
Case
Apex
CPU cooling
OCZ Vanquisher
GPU cooling
stock
OS
XP Pro
Monitor
Philips 109s CRT

Last edited by Pasta : 11-03-08 at 03:19 AM
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Old 11-03-08   #3487 (permalink)
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Is the p45 much better than this board? Still got the same reputation?

System: Magical pixie fart machine
CPU
E6300 @ 3,600Mhz 1.44v
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA EP45-DS3L
Memory
4x1Gb Crucial Ballistix @ 1030Mhz 2v
Graphics Card
4890
Hard Drive
SB320Gb+SB160Gb+WDb500Gb (980Gb)
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy 4
Power Supply
Jeantech Arctic 600W Modular
Case
EZ COOL Alpine Black
CPU cooling
OCZ Vendetta 2 bolted & Sythe S-Flex 1600RPM
GPU cooling
Stock
OS
Vista Ultimate 64Bit
Monitor
Samsung SyncMaster 2253BW 22"
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Old 11-03-08   #3488 (permalink)
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Quote:
I think it'd be close to impossible to actually fry the PSU by letting the 5V run.
Well, I did it somehow. It is a piece of **** Best Buy branded one. I will check for wake on whatever options and if that doesn't work I will just buy a reputable one. Thanks for the advice.

System: The 900 (still don't have GPU, using shit one)
CPU
q6600
Motherboard
Gigabyte P35-DS3L
Memory
G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) DDR2 DDR2 800 (NewEgg <$100)
Graphics Card
GeForce 8400GS
Hard Drive
Seagate Barracuda 320GB 7200.11
Power Supply
RocketFish 700w (Best Buy brand)
Case
Antec 900
CPU cooling
ThermalTake Blue Orb II
OS
Ubuntu 8.10 "Intrepid Ibex"
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Old 11-03-08   #3489 (permalink)
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I'm having a new problem with my system. I built it just about a year ago and have been running it at 3 GHz for that entire time without any problems. I just recently installed a new graphics card and now cannot overclock it AT ALL! Right after installing the new graphics card, it DID fail POST and reset a couple of times before coming online. I didn't think anything of it at the time (I assumed it was the MB getting adjusted to the new GPU) and hadn't noticed until this weekend that it was no longer running at 3 GHz.

MB: Gigabyte P35-DS3L
CPU: Intel E2160 (nom 1.8 GHz Dual Core)
RAM: G.Skill PC2-6400 2 x 1024
Video: XFX GeForce 9800GT PCI-e

The old video card was an MSI GeForce 8600GT and as I said, the system was running OC'd at 3 GHz (333 bus, 9x multiplyer). The bad thing is, I didn't NOTICE that my system was not overclocking anymore until today, about 2 weeks after installing the new video card. (This says a lot for the improvement in graphics speed because it made COD4 and Crysis run better even with the huge drop in CPU speed!). I already sold the old one, so I can't swap it back to confirm that the new one is at fault. But why would it be? What about a graphics card could prevent the system from overclocking? I have tried setting the bus to just 215 and it won't even start up (even with CPU core volt, DDR volt and PCI-e volt slightly bumped).

Some additional info:

I should add that what is happening is the system fails to POST and does the couple of resets and puts itself back to the default bus setting (but it will leave any overvoltage settings in place). It will boot and run 100% of the time in the default speed settings but will FAIL TO POST 100% with ANY OC setting. I really don't see how it could be the RAM or CPU now suddenly failing to OC.

Reading some threads about this MB, it looks like I should try unplugging my external WD USB hard drive and also try resetting the CMOS. I DID try upgrading the BIOS to F8 (from F5) and there was no change in behavior. After the BIOS flash, I reset the CPU settings to "Optimal defaults", again with no change in behavior.

Another thing I will try is removing the new graphics card and installing an OLD PCI one that I have. Useful for troubleshooting, but not for computing.

Any thoughts to help me out here? Thanks!

rob
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Old 11-03-08   #3490 (permalink)
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Yea! OK...clearing the CMOS and resetting everything in BIOS did the trick (at least for THIS boot). Since I had been running at 3.0 GHz previously, I jumped stright to 300 Mhz bus using Auto voltages and it worked like a champ. I'm up and running at 2.7 GHz. I'll let it run for a while like this before going back to 3.0 (I have some DVDs to re-encode tonight, so that will be a fair test).

Rob
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