euphoricmix

When I get my ASRock 939Dual-SATA2 I intend on the doing the VCore Mod and the VDimm Mod. What is the best solder to use on motherboards? I see that most conductive pens are silver based. Will lead/tin solder be as effective as a solder that is in portion silver?

euphoricmix

I bought some silver-bearing solder that is 96% tin and 4% silver, with a melting temperature of 430 Degrees F. Is this good, or is there a product more desirable then this?

tweako_420

as long as the wire/resistor makes contact then it doesnt matter what solder u use.

shortfuse

A word of advice if u are nto familiar with soldering things up, i suggest doing some practice first. since u are planning to do a vmod on ur mobo. chances are the contact points has a lead on it already and has a small space/gap. make sure when u solder the capacitor the lead is not i repeat NOT touching any other parts except for the desired place. and DO NOT let the tip of the lead sit too long on the mobo, it will cause the lead on the mobo to melt too. the easiest way to solder the capacitor is to burn the lead on the capacitor stems instead. rather than on the mobo. the ideal lead would be a 0.032 the thinnest so it could melt fast and bond with the mobo and capacitor

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euphoricmix

I am planning on doing the vcore mod for sure, but I am not sure if I will be doing the vdimm mod or not. Helpful advice in the event that I do.

I am waiting until my motherboard gets here before I crack my case open, and then I will be able to determine what type of chips my memory has. I have corsair cmx-3200c2pt and they revised this memory with different chips like 8 times. So I do not know if it is BH-5, CH-6, UTT, TCCD, etc. If it is TCCD or UCCC it will do me no good to do the vdimm mod.

Thanks again for you input.

HardwaterH4ck3r

I woudl reccomend against using a cold heat soldering tool for voltmodding....i would only use one to fix what is borken already and for wiring. Use a variable heat solder with the smallest tip possible, and i usually melt all desired lead on the iron, and transfer to the mobo with a stainless steel pin. And by pin, i mean seamstress pin. Stainless steel doesn;t stick to solder very well, so it's always good to use.

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slabuda

silver solder does nothing except help against silver depletion when soldering silver leads. Going by my 2M 6 week long military solder course (ISO 9001 specs for civi) the solder you want is 63/47 its called eutectic this link explains it http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eutectic_point

it will have a low solder melt temp and goes straight from a liquid to a solid with no "gel" in between giving the best solder joint.

Also NEVER EVER use acid core flux/solder on electronics!!!!! use RMA (rosin mildly activated) is only corrosive at solder melt temperatures.

and clean all flux up with Q-tip and isopropel try not to use to high of a temp, but also dont forget too low will be just as damaging. with a small area like on surface mount components a very small amount of solder is needed an d ah eat around 400-410 i would think.


good luck and be carefull