TurboTurtle

I've noticed we have several posts on how to understand overclocking, or how to use X program to overclock - but nothing definitive to overclocking Nvidia cards in and of itself. Furthermore I've seen an uprise in the vague "how do I overclock" threads.

The purpose of this thread is thus two-fold; 1) To (hopefully) slim down the number of open and vague "How do I OC my ____?" and such posts, and 2) to help consolidate Nvidia overclocking information from the various threads we have popping about.


Introduction

If you're looking for information on how to overclock your Nvidia GPU, or looking for tips on how to push it that extra inch further, this is the thread for you. Below I will detail:

• Brief FAQ
• What is overclocking?
• Other terminology
• What are the benefits of overclocking my GPU?
• What are the risks involved in overclocking my GPU?
• How do I overclock my GPU?
  • The Basics
  • Overclock Methodology
  • How does memory play into an overclock?
  • Stable or not? Test with game benchmarks
  • Overclocking with SLI
  • I hear noises....
• Common problems when overclocking and possible solutions
• What are some advanced methods of overclocking my GPU?
  • BIOS Modding
  • Volt Modding

If you have any comments, questions or suggestions/additions to this thread, please either post here or PM me.


Brief FAQ


Why can't I reach speeds of x/y/z?

Not all cards are the same. This is due to the naturally occurring variances in production of cards - even of the same model. Therefore, do not base your overclock on someone else's.

What is the best way to OC my ____?

Read below. The method described is a good pattern to use for overclocking your card. If you are too impatient to read this thread, overclocking is probably not for you.

What are some good speeds for my ____?

Again, read below. There are no magic numbers to go by. For all intents and purposes any overclock is a good overclock since you are getting more performance out of what you paid for.

My card is pre-GeForce 8 series and I do not have shaders. What now?

Overclock the card in the same fashion as listed below, just negate any mention of shaders. Effectively with these overclock your core as described here, and treat your RAM as you would system RAM in terms of overclocking that clock speed. Raise your core first, then your memory clock.

My card is getting HOT! What now?

As you'll read below, overclocking produces more heat. I recommend you remain below 80C constant load temp at a maximum. This is with fan speed of 90-100%. Beyond that you'll want to research alternative cooling methods if you are still running a bit too toasty for your liking.

You can try water cooling, or if that's out of the question something like what Angmaar has posted here. Personally I see his idea in that post as genious.

What is overclocking?

If you are asking this question then you are probably new here to OCN, and to you I say: welcome aboard!

Quite simply, overclocking is pushing your computer's components to perform at higher-than-rated speeds. It is also probably the most used word that does not appear in the English dictionary.

Additionally, it can also be described as a hobby than then turns into an obsession that causes you to join online forums to be able to stow away from reality with your fellow overclockers.

Other terminology

GPU

Graphics Processing Unit. This is the part of your card that processes graphical information sent to it - similar to the way the CPU handles system information. GPU is also used as a straight synonym for video card.

Shaders/Stream Processors

Shaders or stream processors allows the GPU to handle information faster and more effectively. They do as the name suggests - they 'stream' the flow of information processing. Simply more stream processors = better performance.

That being said, you may be looking at the number of nvidia stream processors against the number on ATI cards. Nvidia's stream processors and ATI stream processors are not equal. ATI packs more on their cards, while Nvidia pack less but more powerful on theirs.

Core Clock/Shader Clock/Memory Clock

Refers to how fast each of these clock speeds operates at. Similar to a CPU's clock speed - the number of cycles per second, rated in MHz.

One thing to note is that your Memory clock may be advertised at 2000MHz, but only appear as 1000MHz in overclocking utilities. This is because memory is DDR or Double Data Rate. Two instructions are sent every clock cycle, effectively doubling your memory bandwidth.

What are the benefits of overclocking my GPU?

There are numerous advantages to overclocking your GPU. They are the same in principle as overclocking your CPU to have faster overall system performance.

The one obvious advantage is the increase in FPS overclocking can bring to some of your games. The faster the GPU is processing the data given to it, the faster it can render frames to your monitor. The faster it can render frames also means the more frames it can render in the same amount of time. Thus giving you more FPS, smoother game play, and in some games a leg-up on the competition from those two.

Additionally, overclocking your GPU gives you a measure of 'futureproofing' as we call it around here. This simply means that since you are getting more performance out of your card - you can wait longer before you need to upgrade to a higher model. In some instances older cards can be OC'd to outperform their next-generation counterparts at stock speeds.

TwoCables has also noted these benefits of overclocking the GPU:

While the third is to be expected, the first two are not something most people would think of. In addition to web browsing, some other every-day activities may seem smoother, these include:

• Windows Explorer
• Windows 7 Aero desktops
• Taskbar stacks and similar taskbar programs

While you may think your desktop or browser page is static until you interact with it - it is actually refreshing dozens of times per second. The refresh rate of your monitor is how many times whatever is being display is being rendered per second - which is where FPS or Frames Per Second comes into play.

Higher FPS in games is always desirable - the higher the framerate the smoother the game play. A desirable constant framerate is 45 or higher, however the following should be noted:

No matter how high your FPS may be in any game, the actual FPS being displayed by your monitor cannot exceed it's refresh rate.

This means while your GPU may be sending out 100 FPS or more, you probably aren't seeing more than 60 or 75 FPS, as that is the standard refresh rates on most monitors today. To elaborate, while you may very well be seeing a difference between 100 and 200 FPS it isn't what you think it is. You aren't seeing a higher maximum FPS, but an increased minimum FPS level, as even when games report as being rendered at high FPS levels, there are always going to be moments when the FPS drops dramatically by comparison unless your GPU drastically outpaces the video game's engine.

Also, since you are (most likely) using an Nvidia card, overclocking your GPU results in higher Points Per Day (PPD) if you Fold. Folding refers to Stanford's Folding@Home project which, in a nutshell, uses your GPU to run simulations to try and better understand cancer and other diseases. We here at OCN have our very own Folding@Home team and would like to have you aboard!

What are the risks involved in overclocking my GPU?

As with everything that has an upside, there is a downside. This is no different with overclocking - be it your CPU, GPU, RAM, whatever. There are inherent risks involved in overclocking that you should know before you go for it.

First and foremost - damage. You are pushing your GPU to run faster than it was designed to run. This can cause damage to the GPU itself, capacitors on the PCB, any number of components of the card can be damaged from inappropriately overclocking your GPU, or simply pushing it too hard for too long.

That being said, I will say this - GPUs are far more resilient to damage than CPUs or other computer components. Pushing a GPU too hard for a short period of time during testing your overclock will not normally harm it - provided you follow the steps listed here.

Secondly is heat. This can cause the damage described above. As with overclocking your CPU, overclocking your GPU produces more heat as it is working harder. This heat can do anything from make a nice foot warmer in the winter, to causing your cooling bill to increase, to damaging the card itself if you let it get to hot.

As a side note about heat, cards vary in heat output even at the same clock speeds. In general, while a certain card may say it can operate at 90C or 100C - it is not recommended. Maintaining these heat levels is very dangerous. To be safe, do not let your card sustain a temperature above 80C for long.

The third risk to be aware of depends on your manufacturer. Some manufacturers will deny any RMA on a video card that has been overclocked. Others will accept RMAs only if the card can be set back to the way it was when you received it, and still others will accept the RMA back even if you manage to blow every single capacitor on the card somehow. It all depends on who made your card. Please look into this yourself before overclocking if you cannot afford to replace it.

If you cannot afford to lose it, do not overclock it!


How do I overclock my GPU?

Ah, good! I didn't scare you off with that bit since you're reading this.

Now for the fun part - actually getting more out of what you bought.


The Basics

First and foremost let me say this:

Every single card is different, even if they are the same model. Just because someone else can get the same card you have to a certain speed does NOT mean that your card can perform at those speeds.

Furthermore, because of that fact there are no 'good speeds' or 'recommended speeds' to set your card to. You MUST test different settings yourself and find what works for your card.

Before we get started you'll need a few simple-to-use tools.
EVGA Precision, GPU-Z and ATITool. Yes, yes, I know. 'ATiTool for an Nvidia card?'. Quite simply ATITool provides us with a quick, easy way to do our initial testing with our first few overclocks. Once we get to a certain point, we'll start using some other testing tools.

Do not use ATITool for anything besides artifacts scanning. In most cases, you'll see something like in my screenshots below - nothing. This is fine and ATITool will still scan for artifacts just fine. If your card is detected, ignore any other features.

We'll start by taking a look at my card: a BFG GTX 260.

Let's take a look at two of our tools, Precision and GPU-Z.


We'll break this screenshot down as labeled:

1) This is EVGA Precision's performance monitor. This shows the real-time temperature, clock speeds, and fan speed of your video card.

2) These are the requested speeds you tell Precision to set your GPU clock, shader, memory clock and fan speeds to. Notice how some of the requested speeds differ from the actual speeds recorded. More on this later. To set your speeds just click inside the text box, plug in your desired clock speeds, press enter and then hit 'apply'. You should then see the graphs to the left update to your new speeds.

3) This is GPU-Z. This basically gives you a snapshot of information about your card. Here we can see I am using the 65nm version of the BFG GTX 260. This is the 216 stream processor (SP, or shaders as shown here) version. The card has 896MB of available memory, with a 448-bit bus size. At the bottom you can also see the current clock speeds detected by GPU-Z and the default settings for the card, as well as the driver version you are using.

GPU-Z is great for validating your overclock for use here on OCN, as well as being a quick place to go for all the relevant information of your card.

The basic methodology for overclocking any video card is to give it a slight bump on the core and shader clock speeds, then use ATITool's 'Scan for Artifacts' option for 10-15 minutes to test for stability. Once you get to higher and higher overclocks, it is recommended you test for 25-30 minutes in ATITool, or use another testing tool like Furmark.

Note, that while Furmark is an excellent tool for stability testing, it is by far the most stressful thing you will ever load on your video card. Furmark will heat up your video card like none other, and therefore can both detect any stability issues far better than ATITool can - but can also cause damage if you just 'set it and forget it' for too long.

Enough already, let me overclock!

Ok, ok. Just two more things you need to know before we dive in.

First off, you cannot just arbitrarily set clock speeds. They must conform to two rules or it simply will not work.

1) Your core clock cannot exceed more than 1/2 the speed of your shader clock. Conversely your shader clock must be at least twice the speed of your core clock.

2) Your shader clock moves in increments known as 'straps'. Simply put you must tell precision to set your shader clock higher enough to move into the next strap or the shader clock will remain unchanged.

There is already a great guide here on OCN about Nvidia shader straps posted by Mikecdm
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/4976...er-straps.html

It should also be noted that in most current games, increasing your shader clock speed will have a greater impact on performance than any other clock speed increase. However, shaders are the most sensitive part of the card in relation to heat. Higher heat outputs can mean sooner shader instability - in some cases a temperature of 55C can cause instability.


Alright, now we'll start off easy on overclocking my GTX 260. As you may have noticed my core clock is not quite as high as it can go without changing the shader clock. In fact I can increase it to 648MHz before I have to touch the shader clock. So let's do that. As a side note - I highly recommend setting the fan speed on your card to between 60-100% - as high as you can deal with the noise. Running your fan at 100% 24/7 will have no ill effect whatsoever. In fact, their rated life span is calculated off it running at 100%.




As you can see, Precision reports that the core clock is now running at what I requested it to run at - as is GPU-Z. In ATITool you'll see yellow dots appear and hear a 'ping' sound if an artifact is detected. If you get artifacts, set it back to the last known 100% stable clock speeds.

I happen to know my card can handle speeds beyond this, hence the screenshot 30 seconds into ATITool. Let's continue overclocking further.


After looking at Mikecdm's shader strap guide we can see that the straps for my 65nm card come in 54MHz intervals. So, my next shader strap is at 1350MHz. It is logical to increase the shader clock now because I cannot increase my core clock further.



Again, Precision and GPU-Z detect the change in actual clock speeds and report it back. Again ATITool is run to scan for artifacts (and once again I know my card can clock further ahead.)

Continue this pattern until you get artifacts in ATITool:

1) Increase your core clock in one of two ways. Either by 10MHz increments, or by making two equal jumps from the previous max core clock speed based on shader clock to the new limit. (I.E. from increasing my shaders from 1296 to 1350, I should test my core at 661 and 675. Two approx. equal jumps from my previous core clock limit of 648 to my new limit of 675 given my new shader clock) I prefer the second method personally as I have observed with my card at higher shader clocks if I do not sync the core and shader speeds, I will get artifacts until I raise the core clock to 1/2 the shader.

2) Once you've reached your maximum core/shader clock and tested stable in ATITool for ~15 minutes, increase your shader clock to the next strap and test again for ~20 minutes. Then repeat step 1.

If you do get artifacts in ATITool, you can try different combinations of core/shader clock speeds lower than what gave you artifacts. This is where some luck and good old 'guess and check' comes into play.

For me, I can get to 729/1458/1000 before I start getting artifacts. This is the physical limit of my card, as no matter what I do when I increase my shader strap to 1512, I get the following. This is with any combination of core clock speeds.




Note that the above method is used to reach highest core and shader clocks together for your card. If you are looking to up your PPD for F@H more than anything else, you'll want to raise your shaders as high as you can. For situations like this you'll want to try this method:

1) Raise your shaders to the next strap and test in ATITool for ~30 minutes. (Folding can sometimes cause an otherwise stable overclock to be unstable. That is; what may be perfectly stable for games like Crysis on the high end, Folding may not like that overclock particularly much.)

2) When you get to a shader strap that gives you errors, raise your core clock in 10-20MHz increments to see if that helps get your overclock stable. If you get to the point where raising the core clock to the limit of 1/2 the shader strap - you know you've reached your limit for the card. To reduce heat issues you can drop the core clock back down to the lowest known stable level.


But what about the memory clock?

Memory clock speed is a bit different in nature and how it plays into stability of the card. In general, unless you volt mod your card to get incredibly high clock speeds (explained later) you do not have to touch the memory clock at all.

Increasing the memory clock has one primary duty: alleviate any bottleneck that may happen when the memory falls enough behind the core clock the point that you hurt performance.

There is no straight-and-true determination for when a memory overclock is needed or not. For example, if I overclock my memory before I hit 729/1458 I get artifacts on an otherwise 100% stable card. On the flip side, while it does not grant me 100% stability when I push my shaders to 1512, increasing my memory clock allows me to get further into my ATITool test before I get artifacts or my drivers crash.

Additionally, you should know that overclocking the memory makes the VRM's produce a lot more heat compared to the heat produced by other clock increases. And more heat means your shaders are more apt to test unstable


Ok, I'm stable. Done, right?

Wrong. ATITool and Furmark are some great stability testers, but they have one flaw:

They aren't real-world applications.

Much like synthetic benchmarks like 3DMark Vantage, ATITool and Furmark are great stability testers - and Vantage does serve a great purpose in comparing one video card apples to apples to another card - but when was the last time you played 3Dmark Vantage, or Furmark?

Undoubtedly you got a video card to help at least in part with PC gaming. And PC games and their graphics engines, don't always use the card in the same way synthetic benchmarks or stability testers do.

Game Benchmarks

These provide real-world testing results for your overclock. If it's stable in ATITool or doesn't artifact in Vantage, doesn't mean it's stable for your game of choice. That being said, just because it is stable in one of the following game benchmarks, doesn't always means it's stable across the board. I highly recommend running a minimum two of these before calling your OC stable for 24/7 use.

Crysis and Crysis: Warhead

Crysis and Crysis: Warhead are considered to be some of the most demanding games for a video card. Even with the high performance cards we have today, Crysis still bends even the strongest to it's knees if it's alone or at stock clocks. Luckily, it comes with a benchmark. The Crysis retail and demo come packaged with the Crysis Benchmark program. This allows for incredible detail settings to be tested, along with an enormous amount of Anti-Aliasing to be tested along with it - up to 16XQ. This link directs to the demo download: http://www.crysisdemo.com/download.htm

Batman: Arkham Asylum

Also a great game, Batman: AA comes bundled with it's own benchmark program. Like Crysis, Batman: AA allows for an incredible level of detail both in game and in the benchmark, and also has an enormous Anti-Aliasing capability hard-coded into the game. Furthermore, Batman: AA is perhaps one of the first games to utilize nVidia PhysX in a proper way - and is thus also a great test as to how your card(s) will perform at high settings with PhysX enabled. The benchmark only comes in the retail version unfortunately, but here is the link to the main site which includes a download of the playable demo: http://www.batmanarkhamasylum.com/start

S.T.A.L.K.E.R. Clear Sky

Though not as demanding as the two above, this benchmark does stress the GPU in a way that might detail an unstable overclock in these sort of games. This is not the say maxing out S.T.A.L.K.E.R. is any easy feat for a single card at resolutions above 1680x1050, but simply that Crysis will be a heavier load. Also a decent test for Anti-Aliasing capabilities as it allows for AA levels up to 8x which is the industry standard for hard-coded AA.

This links directly to the benchmark download: http://cs.stalker-game.com/en/?page=news&item=119

Left 4 Dead

Left 4 Dead's benchmark operates in a slightly different manner. With this, you run a recorded game someone else has run and compare your FPS results to their own, or anyone else who uses that timedemo. For this I will link Guru3D's timedemo. It should be noted, that while Left 4 Dead can be used as a legitimate benchmarking program - it is vastly less intense than any of the above. I recommend this for pre-GTX 200 series cards as a standard benchmark only - simply because the GTX-200 cards outpace it by a large margin. Additionally, the CPU plays a larger role in this benchmark method than the others listed.

Again, this will link you to Guru3D's timedemo: http://www.guru3d.com/article/left-4...-performance/4

I'm Running SLI, what do I need to know?

If you are running an SLI rig, Precision will automatically by default adjust both GPUs to the specified clocks when you change GPU 1's clock speeds. You *can* disable this by clicking the 'sync' button by the bottom of the window (making it unlit) however, it is not recommended within the scope of this guide.

It should be noted that as I said above, every card is different, even if they are the same model, and that holds true for SLI. If one of the cards can't hit a specific speed, you will artifact regardless of how high you can take the other card.

The best method for OC'ing cards in SLI is as follows:

1) Put the first card in, and proceed in overclocking it as detailed above. Find your max clocks, and write them down.

2) Reset Precision to default clocks, shutdown, and remove the main display from the first card and switch it over to the second, and proceed to find that card's max OC. Write it down as well.

3) Reset Precision, shutdown, and reset your main display to the first card. Then set Precision to set the clock speeds to the lower of the two clocks you wrote down earlier. This will ensure that both cards are running at a OC they can handle.

4) Stability test and benchmark. Then, have fun!

I'm hearing a high pitched noise after overclocking...

That squealing or ringing noise you're hearing is the capacitors on your video card. They squeal at times due to the amount of electricity flowing through them. The more electricity, the more apt they are to squeal - or the louder the squeal will get. Some cards will squeal at stock speeds, others at a low overclock, others may not squeal until a massive overclock or at all. Each card is different in this respect.

There is nothing to worry about though - the squeal is not indicative of damage. The worst thing about the squeal is the annoyance. If it is too loud for your liking, tone down your overclock a bit. Knocking the shaders down a strap will normally either reduce or eliminate capacitor squealing.



Common problems when overclocking

Not every overclock will be a walk in the park, some cards can be a real pain in the neck to overclock. Here are some common problems and solutions:

My card is getting really hot, really fast.

As mentioned above, overclocking increases heat output. If you remain below 80C load temperature, you should be fine. Going above that is not recommended. If you are testing in Furmark then know that that program will normally heat up your card more and heat it up faster than anything else - so unless you are breaking triple digits you should not worry about breaking 80C while stress testing as long as you don't run the test for hours on end.

No, seriously. I could turn my room into a sauna with this thing!

If you are really concerned about the higher temperatures you can do one of two things:

• Reset the card to stock clocks
• Try some alternative, and unconventional, cooling methods

The first is probably not desirable, given that you read this thread and went through with overclocking in the first place. The second requires a little elbow grease, intuitive thinking, and patience.

You can try the method shown in Angmaar's thread I linked earlier. This is also the thread linked in my post sig. This is perhaps the cheapest and easiest way to drop your load temps.

Or, you could try replacing the TIM on your GPU. Additionally you could try this method posted by Shane1244 for radically dropping your temps provided you only use one card.

My card will not hold any overclock!

As said above, not all cards are the same. While some can handle massive overclocks, others can handle a single bump in shader or core clocks without artifacting. Unfortunately, there is no real solution to this aside from swapping out the card itself.

This is especially true with dual GPU cards like the 9800 GX2 or GTX 295. A lot of these cards can only operate at stock speeds, or can only hold a minor overclock. This is because even though they may work in tandem on the same card, the GPUs themselves may differ in their ability to overclock. And if one of the cores can't handle an overclock - the entire card gives artifacts.

But my card is the OC/OC2/OCE/SC/SSC/Lightning/etc... model

Doesn't make a difference. Factory overclock cards are really just a batch of standard cards cherry picked and tested to hold whatever overclock is put on them. Really what the factory is doing with these cards is testing them at a higher-rated speed, and changing the BIOS to set those speeds as the default speeds of the card.

In a lot of the 'higher end' factory overclocked cards you'll find that those speeds are the absolute highest the card can reach before artifacting. There are rare exceptions however where the higher-rated factory overclocked cards turn out to be the GPU equivalent of 'Golden' CPU chips and can handle enormous overclocks. Luck of the draw here.

Advanced methods of overclocking a GPU

You will at some point reach a level of overclock your card cannot pass. This is the recommended limit to which you overclock your card. However, there are some ways in which you can squeeze more out of it. They are beyond the scope of this guide, but I will direct you to the relevant threads/forums.

BIOS Modding

This refers to manually changing the BIOS on which your card operates. This can be used to set your overclock speeds as the default speeds of your card. Additionally this can be used to increase the voltage your card takes in. Increasing the voltage on a card can increase it's overclock potential but does not promise it. However it does pose a dangerous risk to frying your card due to high temperatures and/or to much electricity for the card to handle.

http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/1498...-flashing.html

Other Means of Volt Modding

This is the forum here at OCN dedicated to the physical method of volt modding your card. Use at your own risk.

http://www.overclock.net/graphics-cards-volt-mods/

Specific Volt Modding of 8800's and 9600's

http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/3913...800-gs-gt.html

This is EVGA's Voltage Tuner. This will allow you to up the voltage on your card via software in stages. Again, this can be dangerous. Just because the program says it can give you X additional voltage does not mean you should go that high. Note that this links to V1.0, and anything after V1.0 you must have an EVGA card for it to work.

http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads...uner_v1.0.html


Change Log
10/16/09: Initial post. Cleaned up some grammar and added EVGA Voltage Tuner link.

10/17/09: Added TwoCables' findings, expanded on some sections. Added 'Common problems' section. Cleaned up format in some areas to break up text walls.

10/23/09: Added game benchmark section.

11/2/09: Added SLI section, fixed some formatting and grammar errors.

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TwoCables

This is perfectly timed; I was just beginning to consider overclocking my new GTX 260, s, I am very grateful to you for making this guide!

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metallicamaster3

reserved for Sticky Info

stay tuned =)

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goobergump

In before sticky! Love the guide and extremely helpful

edit: nm

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metallicamaster3

!

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Mikecdm

Good guide, practically stickied on the first day . It took me nearly 6 months to get stickied.

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How to overclock and understand Nvidia shader straps

goobergump

I know, I was so happy to be on the first page of a guide that could potentially get sticked and WHAM... metallicamaster3 stickied this with his iron fist of thunder.

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TwoCables

So far, so good: 720/1440/999, stock is 576/1242/999. I tried 729/1458/999, but it was highly unstable. It didn't even last much more than 5 minutes of artifact scanning in ATITool. But 720/1440/999 lasted 20 minutes, and then I stopped it and ran around 5-10 minutes of Furmark at 1440x900 windowed with 4x MSAA with an average framerate in the mid to high 50's.

But of course, time will tell. But there is one interesting thing I noticed at first: I wanted to use 684/1368/999, but I had the shader/core linked, so it ended up at 684/1476/999. At that overclock, it lasted 20 minutes, and then I stopped it.

Here are some differences I think I am noticing:

• Smoother scrolling in Firefox with large pages that have dozens of really large pictures.
• Smoother scrolling in general.
• Crysis seems to have handful or more of additional framerates (maybe even more). Overall performance feels noticeably smoother.

I might benchmark later, but I'd rather wait a while first just to see whether or not this overclock is truly stable.

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goobergump

That's looking pretty awesome twocables

I want more! and post benchies!

That's what she said, minus the I want more part.

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TurboTurtle

Ooh. I'm all sticky and such.


Thanks for the props guys, and glad to see it's already helped someone!


Keep in mind I'll be expanding on this for a while - think of this as the base. So if any of you have anything to contribute - please let me know!

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