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Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Case Mods & Cases > Other Hardware Mods | |
Turn on/off hard disks
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#11 (permalink) | |
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New to Overclock.net
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Believe me i already thought of those alternative solutions. The thing is i want to use as less space as possible. So lets discuss how my drives will be powered. I m thinking to cut the correct cable of power sata cable and have it connected accordingly with a switch. That switch is going to stay hidden inside of my case or have it mounted at the back so that there wont be direct access but at the same time not entirely unreachable ![]() P.S.: I use linux so keep software out of this..
Last edited by technology fan : 09-10-09 at 02:36 PM |
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#12 (permalink) | |||||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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True, then I guess his options will depend on what he uses the hard drives for. If he uses it for like small access stuff, then USB should work fine (stuff like music and videos and docs). If he wants to load games on the drive, and play off the drive, maybe USB isn't such a great idea
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Planning/Working: Project Aquarius - Tiny Watercooled Computer.. with a 4870x2 Quote:
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#13 (permalink) | |||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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windows has a setting in advanced power settings to turn an HDD off when not in use for xx minutes...
edit: sorry, missed the linux comment. but still, most distros i have used still offer that option...
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#15 (permalink) | |||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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i do not see how it would make them not last as long. it is the exact same thing as what you are saying you want to do with the exception of ensuring that they do not accidentally get turned off in the middle of a write.
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#16 (permalink) | |||||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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IMO you shouldn't cut up your power cables, the warranty gets killed, just my
. Well, if you really want to, here's how. The sata cable should have 4/5 wires going into it. If it has 4 wires, it should goYellow, Black, Red, Black. I'll refer to those like this: Y1,B1,R2,B2. I compared it to a molex cable and came up with the +/- terminals. Y1/B1 are the 12v, R2/B2 are 5v. If its a 5 pin, it should go yellow, black, red, black, orange. Pretend the orange isn't there, and just work with the yellow, red, and blacks. The orange is 3.3v and shouldn't have an issue, as the device usually won't try to power on if there is no 12v or 5v. Most drives don't even use the 3.3v. I would recommend a double pole switch, something like this. The reason is so you don't end up providing 12v power but not 5v, and etc. That's a little more safe. Basically, the double pole is 2 switches built into 1 toggle. Then, split the yellow wire, and add a bit of an extension. Take that and wire it to one pole of the switch. Take the red, and wire it to the other pole. Before powering on, check every cable and make sure you read the manual of the switch to make sure you wired it correctly. You don't want to throw the switch and have it short out the red and yellow . If you've tested it, solder it together, and electrical tape it. Then you should be done. I'll see if I can make some time to draw a diagram.AND take note I take no responsibility for any damage that occurs from doing it incorrectly or whatnot.
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Last edited by LemonSlice : 09-10-09 at 02:51 PM |
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#17 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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2 + 2 = 5
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A relatively lot power (<30w).... for a relatively short period (<5s). Spin up is the most intensive time for a hard drive. Once it reaches operating speed, it's easy to maintain it.
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#19 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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2 + 2 = 5
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or both Blacks (GND).
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To answer most of your questions: (1) a fridge cannot cool a PC (2) 64-bit OS for over 3.4GB (3) If a PCIe card fits, it should work (4) Resolution, not screen size (5) If you have a question, it is not news (6) Report, not respond to Spam (7) Single-Rail/Non-Modular PSUs are not always better than Multi-Rail/Modular
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