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Old 06-24-08   #101 (permalink)
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you can use electrolysis to split the water back into hydrogen and oxygen, which you can uses to power your car. im most interested in using this process to power a generator to create electricity which i could then feed back into the grid making money.

You can get a good idea of what im talking about from Water4gas.com

their system is very budget and some what cheats by just using HEAPS of baking soda to lower the resistance of the water. The baking soda creates sludge and gets used up so the process slows down as time goes by.

I haven't tried the above but the process seems logical enough
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Old 06-24-08   #102 (permalink)
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That site looks pretty suspicious to me. Without reading any details, how do you plan to generate the electricity for the electrolysis in the first place?
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Old 06-24-08   #103 (permalink)
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You put more energy into the electrolysis then you'll get out of it unfortunately.

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Old 06-24-08   #104 (permalink)
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well in a car it has a car battery and an alternator. There is plenty of people doing this kind of thing on Utube. Most of them use Petrol and HHO to power their cars. It should be possible to run an engine on only HHO. However it would be hard to achieve this with a car. I think a modern car is to complication for me. but a generator is basic as .. i might see if i can power my lawn mower on only water, if the general idea works on my car.

I't shouldn't cost much to see if the idea will work .. i already have some stainless steel sheet and a good ish design

The idea does seem to be a holy Grail but i'll give it a go. This kind of idea has been on prime time new 4 times in New Zealand so there must be some truth to it.
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Water Blocks:D-tek FuZion CPU (stock), Swiftech MCW60 GPU
Controller: M-Cubed T-balancer BigNG adjusts fan speeds and pump speeds to keep my system at X temp

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Old 06-24-08   #105 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mootsfox View Post
You put more energy into the electrolysis then you'll get out of it unfortunately.
if that were the case then millage would go down when using the system not up.

it's hard for me to defend something i haven't tried though
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Radiators: 3x 240SGTS radiators in parallel to each other.
Fans: 6x Scythe ULTRA KAZE 120 x 38 mm fans sucking though a 7cm shroud
Pumps: 2x MCP655 pumps in series
RES: 80x400mm
Water Blocks:D-tek FuZion CPU (stock), Swiftech MCW60 GPU
Controller: M-Cubed T-balancer BigNG adjusts fan speeds and pump speeds to keep my system at X temp

CPU: INTEL 6600 GO
GPU ATI 4850
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Old 06-24-08   #106 (permalink)
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I cant see it working as anything more than a battery.

You put energy in to split the water, you get energy out by combining them again. End result is less energy than you started with.

Maybe we should start a topic elsewhere as I think my chiller thread is getting somewhat diluted.
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Old 06-24-08   #107 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet Infidel View Post
I cant see it working as anything more than a battery.

You put energy in to split the water, you get energy out by combining them again. End result is less energy than you started with.

Maybe we should start a topic elsewhere as I think my chiller thread is getting somewhat diluted.
this would seem 100% right to me. but people report better millage not worse

i have created an hew topic here ...

http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/3...ml#post4080531
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Radiators: 3x 240SGTS radiators in parallel to each other.
Fans: 6x Scythe ULTRA KAZE 120 x 38 mm fans sucking though a 7cm shroud
Pumps: 2x MCP655 pumps in series
RES: 80x400mm
Water Blocks:D-tek FuZion CPU (stock), Swiftech MCW60 GPU
Controller: M-Cubed T-balancer BigNG adjusts fan speeds and pump speeds to keep my system at X temp

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Old 07-19-08   #108 (permalink)
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Right, no progress yet but here are those pictures I mentioned before.

One of the two 14cm fans I intend to use next to a 12cm fan for reference.


The copper sheet with a lot more holes.


The beginings of the water jacket. It's hard to see but there is a clear top attached. Note that the channel is a lot deeper than id like, but thats something to look into later.
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Old 07-19-08   #109 (permalink)
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cool . thats a lot of holes !
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Radiators: 3x 240SGTS radiators in parallel to each other.
Fans: 6x Scythe ULTRA KAZE 120 x 38 mm fans sucking though a 7cm shroud
Pumps: 2x MCP655 pumps in series
RES: 80x400mm
Water Blocks:D-tek FuZion CPU (stock), Swiftech MCW60 GPU
Controller: M-Cubed T-balancer BigNG adjusts fan speeds and pump speeds to keep my system at X temp

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Old 07-19-08   #110 (permalink)
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I can't see where your going with this at the moment... are going to attach the TEC's to the copper plate ?

Are you still using 10 TEC's ?

Of course you remember that ideally TEC's should be mounted using screws on the centreline of the TEC about 5mm out from the edge.

I can't see any holes out of those you have drilled so far that match that configuration.


Edit:- Oh I have just realized you are fixing them at the corners aren't you....that really isn't the best way... the weakest part of the TEC is the corners you stand more chance of breaking it.

I am bit worried about the suggestions for tensioning the TEC's on this thread as well... the recommended pressure is average 250 p.s.i .There is a formula for working out the pressure on each screw and I cannot remember off the top of my head what the result was for 4 stainless steel 4mm screws is but it is somewhere 9-10lbs per screw. The only reliable way to get this is with a torque limiting screwdriver.

If you really want tosee how TEC's should be mounted go to the Melcor site

here is the mounting tips:- http://www.melcor.com/assmtips.html

and here is a very good bit of reading on TEC's in general :- http://www.melcor.com/handbook.html

Last edited by zipdogso : 07-19-08 at 06:14 PM. Reason: more thoughts.
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