CoolIT TEC Club (unofficial) - Page 4 - Overclock.net

TiGa · 05-20-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by XenoMopH

Hmmm...you have the Laing D5-MCP655?....that's quite an expensive pump, it's €84,99 here, plus I need a EK-D5 X-TOP so I can mount the G1/4 fittings for the 5/16 tubes which is like €30.-
If a Laing DDC-1Plus MCP355 will do (which is not variable), it'll save me some money

The MCP355 has more head than the MCP655 but the MCP655 has more flow than the MCP355.
Since I'm still using 1/4" ID Norprene, flow is not a major concern as with 5/16 or 1/2" ID tubing.

Swiftech pumps are pretty cheap here in Canada. Two MCP355 with tops add up to about 125€ + tax + shipping. One MCP655 with EK top is 100€ + tax + shipping.
If I believe my Koolance electronic flow meter, I have approximately only 0.4GPM of flow and most OCN WC experts recommend at least 1 or 1.5GPM. The 4 chiller blocks seem to be very restrictive.

This is Ultrasonic's dual pump setup that I plan to use:

The bypass helps to save some of the flow that would be lost normally in a normal dual pump setup.

I forgot to mention how I setup everything externally.
I pulled a PCI-E cable and a whole Molex line through the 1" tube grommets I have in the back of the case so the MTEC control board is external too.
I got a USB adapter to be able to plug it externally too. I also use Koolance Low Profile Quick Disconnects to separate the external part if I need to move the casing.

It will be much easier to move the external parts around after I build my Ghetto Boreas stand:

TiGa

reedo · 05-20-09

i gots to stsart saving my ducats for one or two of them, about how much do they run? in us$

TiGa · 05-21-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedo

i gots to stsart saving my ducats for one or two of them, about how much do they run? in us$

You can get a barebones FZE or Boreas (w/o MTEC control board) directly from CoolIT for 250$USD and 450$USD.

The cheapest prices I've seen for retail units is at http://www.directcanada.com. When converted to USD, the retail units are the same price as the barebone units from CoolIT.
http://www.directcanada.com/products...OLIT%20SYSTEMS
http://www.directcanada.com/products...OLIT%20SYSTEMS
http://www.directcanada.com/products...OLIT%20SYSTEMS

The main difference between 2xFZE and a Boreas is that the Boreas has a bigger heatsink, roughly the size of 2xFZE back-to-back.
A bigger heatsink means more cooling for the hot side of the TEC so the cold side can get even colder.

TiGa

XenoMopH · 05-21-09

Would like to c some pics when finished

Will be very curious to c how the bypass with the dual pump will work out.

But ur not adding a res, so I guess you will be using a fill port?

I'm still not quite sure which pump to get...What do you mean the MCP355 has "more head" than the D5-MCP655? If the 655 produces more flow, then wouldn't it be better to be used?

Both my FZE's hardly fit in my CM690, One at the front and the other one at the back.
Would be better if I mounted them both at the back, but I need a new case with 2x 12cm outlet for that. And there comes the next problem....no space!! Case can't be larger than 61cm tall and 51cm deep.

TiGa · 05-21-09

I misplaced the USB wire for my camera but I'm taking pictures nonetheless.
I knew I should have splurged for the wifi model.

I will make a proper build log as soon as I can.

It was a typo: I won't be adding a rad (not a res).
I got the XSPC top with res instead of the Swiftech Micro-Res that I'm using right now and the regular XSPC top in acrylic (not delrin) to see if the 2nd pump has enough water before starting it.

Head means pressure also means the height of the water column when the pump is shooting straight into the air. Flow is quantity of water.
The MCP655 is bigger so it can pump more water but with less pressure. More restrictive loops require more pressure, hence the dual pump setup. Adding a pump in mid-loop gives a little help to keep the pressure up. The bypass allows the lost pressure to go somewhere else.

Also heat dump, MCP355 is 18W (36W for 2) and MCP655 is 24W (48W for 2). More powerful pumps add more heat to the water. Not their full power rating in heat but a good part of it.

BTW I finally got Norprene tape at the hardware store that is normally used for insulating windows and roofs, 20$CDN for 6"x50'. It should do the job to insulate the chiller blocks. It's thin tape, not a thick sheet like I wanted but 8 coats seems to give a good thickness. Maybe 1 would have been enough... Anyways, more coats allowed to add a window flap to the acrylic parts. I'm almost tempted to do the outside of all the waterblocks and my compression fittings but the glue residue is gunky when the tape is removed.

Have a look at Danger Den cases, the towers are designed to have a triple rad in the front, they might be big enough for 2 (or 3!) FZE. The water box could probably hold 2 too.
I'm seriously thinking about getting the double-wide one to fit all my WC junk inside.

TiGa

XenoMopH · 05-21-09

I'll take some pics of my tidy build....you'll be suprised on how I could fit all of this into the case

I totally forgot about the XSPC top/res solution

I think I might be going for that 1 with a MCP355. Like you already said: if the TEC blocks are highly restrictive, then high pressure is surely needed to push the coolant through 4 of them + a cpu block (and 5/16" ID tubes).
I'll be waiting a couple of weeks before I'm getting me a new cpu block, money still doesn't grow on my back, and I don't think my girlfriend is going to like it when I'm spending money on my hobby yet again.

Do you really think tat when insulating the blocks is really needed? I doubt that condensation will occur .... Or are you insulating it to keep the cold inside the block

As for those Danger Den cases...took a look at them, but I can't really say I like them. But hey...that's just me.

TiGa · 05-21-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by XenoMopH

Do you really think tat when insulating the blocks is really needed? I doubt that condensation will occur .... Or are you insulating it to keep the cold inside the block

Insulating it to keep the cold inside. Even at full load, the water temp is still sub-ambient so every bit counts.

I presently have the two units side by side and the wind drag from the fan on the chiller blocks is enough to change the temperature of the water.
I had one of my rad exhaust fan blowing directly on one block and stopping allowed the coolant to drop 5C. That's the main reason why I wanted to move them out of the case.

Waiting for my new pumps to arrive...

TiGa