dixson01974

I was talking about something like this about 1 -2 month ago . Mount TEC to a shroud and blowing cool air through the rad on a wc . Just recheck my idea it is about time for the experiment .
16 TEC 30mm ( serial 2 tec together )
Qmax : 47.1w
Imax : 5.0a
Vmax : 15.4 v
DTmax : 67°C
Tmax : 125°C

Radiator
Swiftech MCR220-QP

Running 16 TEC at 25% power ( @ 7 v and 1.25amps each ) with heatsinks on the shroud . 2 88cfm fans to push the air through the rad . It would cool the water. Right ?
And cooling air down I really do not heatsinks on the TEC . Right ?

zipdogso

And like we said at the time it is not the best idea. It is very difficult to fix TEC's to a rad (you need to tension the TEC's to 150-300 p.s.i. and also the rad surfaces aren't anywhere near flat enough.) and fixing it to the shroud is relatively pointless due to the poor heat transfer...it has got to go through the shroud then through the rad then into the coolant - it will be pretty much a waste of time and money.

You could chill the coolant then pass that through a rad BUT the rad must be enclosed in a limited volume of air, out in free air it will only go down to the ambient temp in an enclosed space it will be a chiller i.e. go down below ambient. Basically what ever you are trying to cool will need to be in the enclosed space with the rad.

Commercial air chillers work by having a large alu or copper heatsink with the coldsides of the TEC's attached to the back. air flow is then guided by fans past the finned side of the heatsink to cool the air. This method will work better if the air being cooled is in an enclosed space also.

Air cools down and also conversly heats up very quickly....faster than water but you can't have your cooled air being "contaminated" by warmer air or you are wasting your time that's why the volume of air you cool needs to be enclosed. Without an enclosed space of air the TEC won't be much better than a standard fan air cooler. If you don't have facilities for an enclosed space of air you really are better off forgetting air cooling and just concentrating on coolant cooling.

EDIT - Oh and I have just re-read your thread your 30mm TEC's wont do diddly-squat. I can tell you now 30mm ones aren't worth the time of day for what your planning and DEFINATELY NOT WHEN UNDERVOLTED - absolutely no chance. Undervolted (with 1.25A.) 15w each absolute max...run them at 7v (i.e. 2.1A approx.) and you might get 23w....oh dear.

What's the "16" bit...your not planning 16 of them are you ? (8 pairs of 2) hmmm...that's not so bad I suppose.

Hope you have a variable supply you will need either 14v 17A (for the 7v.) or around 8-9v 10-11A (for the 1.25A). To stress the PSU at only 75% power (makes them last longer.) you will need a 23A supply for the 7v setting and 15A for the lower setting.

dixson01974

Sorry for bug you . Thanx again .

ira-k

Just get a window AC, pull the front off it and stick your rad in it. That's what Dryadsoul does and he gets close to direct die TEC temp's with it. Or direct die cool your chip.

It's hard to get good temp's with a TEC even when your direct die cooling, the further you move them off die the worse it gets.

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Demonkev666

that's why people move to phase and cascade.

window AC lol I was going to do that cause my mom keep trun off the central air while I'm gaming them like why is 80F in my room lol she won't tell when dose it.

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chill guy as always.

ira-k

Yeah that's why I moved on to phase and DICE, TEC just doen't let you push your OC much further then good WC'ing. That and if I'm going to spend $30+ a month on electric I want to be loading at way below 0C.

The 437W did pretty well on s/939 and the E8### chips, but anything hotter then that and it's pretty well under-powered.

Hey even with TEC your room ambient temp's will affect cooling, not as bad as with water or a HSF but it still will.

Did I ever show you my 437W TEC block? It has a 3/4" jet barb inlet that I run with 3/4" tubing right after high head Iwaki 20RZ, I have a 5 gallon actively cooled sealed bucket res. It really helped to keep my temp's from spiking as fast, it would take a few seconds to go from -30C idle to +5 or 6C load instead of almost instantly.I like to run a 3/8-1/2" copper cold-plate to for the same reason.

__________________
...***Beware all ye Men born of Woman, beware the Hemogoblins***...
**E8600 @ 5751Mhz ***OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery ***150 Opty @ 3242Mhz **

NETio

That's a beastly block. lol

I think the OP has determined that the idea isn't very practical but for the trouble you could build a bong (evaporative tower cooler). Probably for well under $50 (USD) you could have a decent evaporative cooler that may just get you below ambient It would be a great project to try out to see if a few more degrees helps and if you decide it isn't too much trouble, then go for a SS phase unit and drop the temp another 70 degrees!

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PhenomIsts