Flexable line or w/Braided copper??? - Overclock.net

OverShocked · 07-12-09

Hey guys, first post.

I have been getting into phase change alot lately, and i was wondering:

For the flexable line going down to the evap, would you need the braided copper outside or would only the flexable line by itself work fine?

Here is a pic of the flex line

Here is a pic of the braided copper

This is for a single stage direct die system.

Thanks in advance...

The Fryer · 07-12-09

i dont know a lot about phase, but i do know some about plumbing. you would want the braid tightly on the outside as it would reinforce the flex line. flex line is a little thinner wall and will not hold as high of a pressure as a sold tube will. so the braided copper will help its overall strength if put on and strung tightly. hope this helps.

NoL · 07-12-09

The braid is recommended for cascades with higher static pressures. I only use braid however though as the extra strength lowers the chance that the flex will break when cold and moved.

DesertRat · 07-12-09

I know a little about plumbing and near nothing about applied phase change cooling...

However, I'd say the braided as it's more flexible(won't wear out?) and I think it can stand higher pressures.

NoL · 07-12-09

The braids less flexible.
Unbraided can do complete U's, but it doesn't matter once your under insulation.
Properly "laid" braid will make the flex almost springy though.

OverShocked · 07-12-09

Thx for all the replies. Really appreciate it.
So you would spring the $40 or whatever it costs for that braid?

OverShocked · 07-12-09

Also, since this is my first time i was going to buy chilly1's evap as apposed to making my own. But i noticed his only has one hole in the top of it. Wouldnt it need another hole for the cap tube?

Do i need to drill my own hole?
-thanks

NoL · 07-12-09

Chilly1's have suction thru the center, and then normally a small hole on the outer rim top. Redrill it to your captube size and make it tilt in at an angle against the spiral.
I'd get the braid.

OverShocked · 07-12-09

Great, thanks i would have screwed up my evap if you hadnt told me that.

One more question, can you turn an aircondioner into a direct die system so i can save myself 100 bucks?

The Fryer · 07-12-09

AC unit into direct die, you could as it has been done, and seems to work well, but you still have to get a way to set the temp.

07-12-09	#3 (permalink)
NoL Extreme Cooler Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 625 Rep: 120 Unique Rep: 82 Trader Rating: 0	The braid is recommended for cascades with higher static pressures. I only use braid however though as the extra strength lowers the chance that the flex will break when cold and moved. __________________ http://images.tribe.net/tribe/upload...3-47d49073bb79 Send me your food.

07-12-09	#5 (permalink)
NoL Extreme Cooler Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 625 Rep: 120 Unique Rep: 82 Trader Rating: 0	The braids less flexible. Unbraided can do complete U's, but it doesn't matter once your under insulation. Properly "laid" braid will make the flex almost springy though. __________________ http://images.tribe.net/tribe/upload...3-47d49073bb79 Send me your food.

07-12-09	#8 (permalink)
NoL Extreme Cooler Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 625 Rep: 120 Unique Rep: 82 Trader Rating: 0	Chilly1's have suction thru the center, and then normally a small hole on the outer rim top. Redrill it to your captube size and make it tilt in at an angle against the spiral. I'd get the braid. __________________ http://images.tribe.net/tribe/upload...3-47d49073bb79 Send me your food.

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Flexable line or w/Braided copper???

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