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Old 07-15-06   #1 (permalink)
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Default Going to Install PSU Need Pointers

I'm buying a new PSU and a new case this week some time. The most I've done inside my computer is install ram and a video card. I've disassembled many parts, but never practically built one from scratch. Any pointers as to how I should go about this? I've read multiple build logs from Maximum PC magazine, and that's about as far as my knowledge goes. Other than the PSU and the Video Card, I'm keeping my whole system.

Thanks for the help,
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Old 07-15-06   #2 (permalink)
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You just slide the PSU in to the top left shelf thingy and put the four screws in the back. It is really very easy.
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Old 07-15-06   #3 (permalink)
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Installing a new power supply is not too hard at all. I have installed and reinstalled many and it actually is VERY simple. Just be careful and make sure you plug in all the wires you need lol.

Heres a quick lil thing

1.) Turn of comp thru windows, then turn PSU off, unplug, turn PSU on for 30 seconds (without plug in). Turn PSU Off

2.) Unplug all wires connected to ur PSU (including the mobo power)

3.) Carefully unscrew the 4 screws in the back of ur case connecting the PSU.

4.) Carefully take out the PSU.

5.) SLide the new PSU in were it goes

6.) Screw it it and then plug in all the wires you need. (make sure u plug in the hd, mobo, gfx, cd, floppy.) Just do a quick check and make sure all things are good.

7.) Plug in the PSU, turn it on, then turn ur comp on.

Good to go.
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Old 07-15-06   #4 (permalink)
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He's got to do a little more than that... He's getting a new PSU and a new case. Make sure you take your time with this, and be patient.

First, I would install the PSU in the new case. That's easy, as stated before. Then, disassemble your old case: Turn it off, remove all chords from the back. Remove all cables connected to the motherboard, hard drives, optical drives, and video card, etc. Then, take out all cards (Video, sound, other PCI cards). Put those on a flat non-metal surface. If you have the antistatic bags they came in, use those. You can leave RAM and CPU+cooler in place. No need to remove those.

Then, locate the screws with which the motherboard is attached to the case. CAREFULLY remove these screws. Then, gently lift out the motherboard. Now is a good time for some cleaning: take a can of compressed air, and blow all dust out of the CPU cooler and anywhere else where dust is built up. Put the board on a flat, non-metal surface, again, use the antistatic bag if possible. Observe where the holes in the motherboard are, and place brass standoffs in the new case in the correct spots. Then, gently place the motherboard in the new case, and put the screws in (not too tight, but not too loose either). Then, insert cards, connect cables, put hard drives/optical drives in the rig...etc.

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Old 07-15-06   #5 (permalink)
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http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2666

This PSU looks good, as it has 500W power, UV Blue cabling, and 34A at the 12V Rail, it is also $30 cheaper than the Hiper PSU I was looking at. Anybody see any issues with this PSU? Anyone heard of the brand?
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Old 07-15-06   #6 (permalink)
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Oh, I just saw it has a lifetime Warranty, too.
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Old 07-15-06   #7 (permalink)
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Default My Advise

For tools I use a medium and small phillips screwdriver, preferably that have their heads "magnetized", in order to retrieve screws that drop and fall into recesses. The problem with a magnetic retriever (the kind you buy at auto zone that has the telescoping antenna) is that it is too powerful and will stick to everything BUT what you are trying to pick up. Plus, I'd be willing to bet that having a powerful magnet near the M/B is probably not a good thing. A pair of hemostats (they look like scissors and lock together) is handy, but a simple pair of needle nose pliars will do.

Now is a good time to separate the CPU & heatsink and re-apply some AS5. Otherwise, keep them together and on the M/B.

I always attach the little wires for the power & reset switches first, as they are a PITA and it's easier to do without all the other cables in the way.

Oh, and in case it is not obvious, install the PS first before the M/B. Otherwise you might drop the thing on the M/B and crush something.

Pay close attention to the number of (brass) "stand-offs" and make sure that you have one for every hole in the M/B and no extras. An extra stand-off in a could grind & short the M/B underneath, so count the holes in the M/B, count-out the exact number you need and pay close attention. Sometimes I use a pencil to mark which ones will go where before I start.

Other than that, it's pretty simple. Not exactly rocket-science. But it does require some quiet time in order to keep in mind what you are doing. Banish screaming children and/or parents to somewhere else for a few hours.

Before mounting the HD's & DVD drive(s), it's important to be clear on your Master/Slave configuration. Getting it right the first time will save you from having to remove the device(s) and resetting jumpers.

One thing to be aware of is that there are about 3 (maybe 4) different kind of screws that I (at least) have seen used in a typical computer build. It's important to know which type of screw goes where. The heavier ones mount the M/B to the case, and sometimes they are used on the HD's, but not usually. Usually the HD's, floppies and DVD drives get the fine-threaded small screws, but not always. Sometimes the "medium" screws mouth the peripheral devices. It's hard to know which you need before hand. I usually will "try" to spin a screw in, and if there is any resistance at all, I will change to another until I figure out which one is supposed to go there.

After all the hardware is mounted & installed properly, I do cabling last.

It's important to know that the end of the IDE cable is Master, and to make sure it goes to the correct device with it's jumper set correctly.

I never mess with "cable select" as it seems to cause more problems than it solves, and the problems happen after the whole thing is assembled. Better to do it the safe way and simply set the jumpers and configure the cables accordingly.

I never mess with the case fans until after I have booted the system and verified that everything is working properly, since if there is a problem you are going to have to tear everything out and put it all back together anyways. In fact, I leave the side of the case open for a couple of days until everything is (and has been) perfect, because it's just like washing your car and then it rains.

As soon as you fasten that case closed, you are going to need to open it back up again.

Finally, while it has never happened to me, I have heard dire warnings from people that notice that I occasionally leave screws laying around loose at the bottom of the case. I do this because usually I have a HD in there that is only mounted with 2 screws, and the other two are waiting for me to pull the side of the case off on the right side and install them.

But I don't because if I do THAT, then it will be only a couple of days before something goes wrong and I have to take the HD out again. So I only "half-mount" the HD's in a superstitious attempt at warding off the evil demons that will plague a perfectly running AND perfectly assembled machine. The loose screws at the bottom of the case are my promise to myself that I am not a loser and that I really do good work, and will "finish" this thing in a couple of days.

But a few days is (hopefully) several months of uninterupted operation (see, it works) and the throng of onlooking bystanders warn me that those screws might get stuck underneath the M/B and short something out.

So don't do like I do, and remove the screws.
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Old 07-15-06   #8 (permalink)
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Never heard of them... but the specs look decent. I like the single 12V rail of 34A. That should be enough

Here is a review:
http://www.driverheaven.net/reviews/vortec/index.htm

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Old 07-15-06   #9 (permalink)
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Nice find Chozart. You are quickly becoming my favorite Overclock.net user. However, as I am sure everyone's advice will prove useful in my build, you are all getting Rep+s. Yes, it's only 1 rep, but it's the best I can do. Thank you everyone.
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CPU
E8400 3.9 GHz @ 1.344V
Motherboard
DFI LP Dark P35
Memory
2x1GB Team D9GMH
Graphics Card
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Hard Drive
250 GB WD Caviar
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Onboard (Very Sad)
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Silverstone DA750 (60A 12V)
Case
Cooler Master Stacker 832
CPU cooling
Xigmatek HDT-S1283 w/ Yate Loon @ 40C Load
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UV Red Stock w/ AS5 @ 52C Load
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Old 07-16-06   #10 (permalink)
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Now for a kinda wierd question. How do I route wires underneath my MoBo? I've seen people do this and it makes their case look tidy as hell. Anybody do this?
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Motherboard
DFI LP Dark P35
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2x1GB Team D9GMH
Graphics Card
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Hard Drive
250 GB WD Caviar
Sound Card
Onboard (Very Sad)
Power Supply
Silverstone DA750 (60A 12V)
Case
Cooler Master Stacker 832
CPU cooling
Xigmatek HDT-S1283 w/ Yate Loon @ 40C Load
GPU cooling
UV Red Stock w/ AS5 @ 52C Load
OS
Vista Home Premium 64-Bit
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