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Old 11-07-08   #11 (permalink)
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Oh my...how hard is it to find those older Pioneer Premier motors these days? I hear they were pretty ballin.
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Old 11-07-08   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by captthunderpnts View Post
Oh my...how hard is it to find those older Pioneer Premier motors these days? I hear they were pretty ballin.
The 2000 and 5000SPL's can be pretty difficult to find these days. If you're wanting to go that route, the 3000SPL (this year's model)...sound almost the same, they just have a higher power rating.
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Old 11-07-08   #13 (permalink)
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Alright guys, just updated this as a how to thread!
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Old 11-09-08   #14 (permalink)
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I have a few things to add. Using a computer PSU in this manner will kill it eventually. But if you are going to cut off all of the connectors, I doubt you would be using a PSU that you weren't afraid to lose . All but a select few ATX PSUs have minimum load requirements on the 3.3v and 5v rails that need to be met for the PSU to operate correctly. Also, wiring up multiple PSUs as been described would cause feedback in the voltage regulation circuits, ultimately leading to improper voltage regulation and eventual failure. I'm only somewhat familiar with car stereo systems but I would also be worried about the transient loads (going from a low load to a high load in a short period of time) stressing the main transformer and other components on the primary side of the PSU. But as long as it's a PSU that you don't care much about, I see nothing wrong here and is a nice use for a spare PSU.
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Old 11-09-08   #15 (permalink)
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Hmmm, I wonder if my PC P&C could push my 600watt Alpine and my 2 12" Type-S. New car comes within 2 years so stereo is coming out and I'll be out growing this 510/650max PSU soon.. Maybe those 2 could beat out my Z-5500 10"
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Old 11-09-08   #16 (permalink)
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Hmmm, I wonder if my PC P&C could push my 600watt Alpine and my 2 12" Type-S. New car comes within 2 years so stereo is coming out and I'll be out growing this 510/650max PSU soon.. Maybe those 2 could beat out my Z-5500 10"
They'll definitely beat out your Z-5500 10" sub. I can vouche for that with my single 12. However, please keep in mind...ONLY do this if you don't care about losing the PSU.
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Old 11-09-08   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
They'll definitely beat out your Z-5500 10" sub. I can vouche for that with my single 12. However, please keep in mind...ONLY do this if you don't care about losing the PSU.
What about the potential problems for the amplifier and subwoofer? The reason i see this as a fail (please no offence intended pioneerisloud) is that you can get cheap plate amps that offer a crossover and phase etc for not that much in the states... One of the most important components of any amplifier is the power supply

Im really interested to see how long that power supply lasts and how the amplifier holds up too
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Old 11-09-08   #18 (permalink)
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What about the potential problems for the amplifier and subwoofer? The reason i see this as a fail (please no offence intended pioneerisloud) is that you can get cheap plate amps that offer a crossover and phase etc for not that much in the states... One of the most important components of any amplifier is the power supply

Im really interested to see how long that power supply lasts and how the amplifier holds up too
The only thing I'm really worried about is the subwoofer. The entire car audio system ($12,000 in total) was destroyed in a car accident in 2005. The only thing that is remaining is this one subwoofer (other two were destroyed in the impact), and this one amplifier. And this amplifier is already half-destroyed as is. Its got MAJOR physical damage, and some of the connections have been broken off on the inside (the solder joints). It no longer has an adjustable crossover, RCA inputs, and I had to jerry-rig the screw type connectors with new screws because the old ones were snapped off.

So this really is just a complete test. I don't really care too much about the PSU (found it in my junk drawer). And I also don't care all that much about the amplifier since I now have an Alpine V-Power 600w Mono-block to push this thing in my car once I get my charging system up to snuff (and since this particular amp is so destroyed already).

So...if it goes, it goes. I will of course miss it, but I also already have a 100w plate amp that I COULD use....but where's the fun at in that?
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I love you so much right now (no homo).
I did error10's Windows Challenge and Windows now runs me!
How To: Install Car Audio to a PC Power Supply
กกกʍʇɟ qn1ɔ uoıʇɐıɔǝɹddɐ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ

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Old 11-09-08   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I also already have a 100w plate amp that I COULD use....but where's the fun at in that?
Believe me i understand and i have inded done this once myself... Im just worried about all the noobs with car stereo stuff who are rushing out ot buy cheap PSU's so they can run their sub from their PC

If you have a car sub the best thing you can do is build a proper box for HT use and save for a plate amplifier and your set

Unless you have a spare PSU, Amplifier and sub which you dont care about and are on a really tight budget there are much better options for a little extra
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Nah... the case only cost me a thousand and some change... anyone know where I can get a dry ice kit for this?

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Old 11-09-08   #20 (permalink)
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Ya, just be careful with that. Wouldn't want to turn it up too loud and see smoke coming out of the PSU, lol. Nice job though. You could run it straight off a battery instead of the PSU so you can turn up the settings and volume. What's not so fun about that is having to recharge your battery often.
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