stevegel

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Speak.../dp/B000AM6QHE
this all you need.

Nick911

Now I need some speakers and witch sound card to choose. Was thinking Omega Claro but I need a card for gaming and isn't over 120.

Thanks for input on the Logitech but I'm going to stay away from them and pursue other options for speakers and bass.

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equetefue

What I did is used an older Sony AVR couple with a spare 12" Sony Active sub and Paradigm Atom Bookshelf. Used the HT Omega Striker and ran an optical from it to the AVR.

Looks and sounds great

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CPUz

0m3g4

I have never listened to that particular sub, but I will say that I highly doubt it could keep up with the mk 3 as far as output, I mean with the proper box, that measly 10" can't produce the ground shaking depth of a 15" with 20.5mm xmax. That thing is running 200 watts, and the specs say room tuning 20hz, I know that my sub box was tuned to16hz and would hit that o so loveable inaudible rattling everything around you.
but like I said I have not had the pleasure of listening to one of those, so I can't say for certain, but given the specs I would say the dayton over that any day, also the dayton had great response.
10's will take up less room, and in a smaller room be able to produce a decent amount of bass (it really all depends on the driver).
12" more room lower response, but then again depends on the driver, more money can get you a 10'"that will be a 12" but then you need more power. so there are trade offs, here is what I would do in your shoes, buy a 10" dayton decent sub cheap and can be put in a small sealed box, with around 200-250watts to it and fill a larger size bedroom, will set you over on your sub budget a bit but the quality will be much better, than any store sub at that price.

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NoDestiny

You obviously have NO concept of driver displacement or power handling. That sub is a 10" with 15mm Xmax with only 200 watts. The 15" he listed with 1000 watts at over 20mm xmax. Please explain to the crowd here how in the hell something with LESS cone area, LESS Xmax, and LESS RMS power is going to "Slat around and spit out" its superior counterpart? Don't even get me into the theil/small of these two drivers...

(I used to be an obsessive car audio enthusiast and car stereo shop co-owner... currently I'm obsessive over home audio and home theater)

eD audio is some of the best bang/buck, but you can't tell me a SRT-4, because of its bang/buck, is better than a Areal Atom when it comes to performance.

Nick911

Seems the dayton 12" sub is what I'm going to get but now people say create your own... Isn't the 12" sub going to be enough and better then the 10" one?

What is this xmax and what sub you comparing to what? I need names here lol.

nodestiny, since you know about cars, the speakers that I love are the infinity kappa, if you know home speakers to sound like that, I'm good to go.

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NoDestiny

Use WinISD to help determine a box/sub combo for yourself... you can't simply say "a 12 will play lower than a 10" anymore... subs have come FAR in technology since the older days where bigger meant lower. Bigger subs require larger boxes... do you want something the size of a coffee table making bass, or something similar in sound to come from something about the size of a cardboard box? The more cone area (or the larger the sub generally) will get you more total output given all else is equal, but you won't get the benefits of its extended lower range without increasing the box space itself. Currently for my bedroom, I have a 12" sub with 3.5 cubes ported to 20Hz. Its takes a lot of room and would be very tough to fit for my computer, but with only 240watts RMS, is able to do more than shake the piss out of the room itself.

Box design is the most critical part of getting a subwoofer to do whatever it is you want it to do. You have so many choices... sealed for a smaller box that has can play about all frequencies, but trades off with a slow rolloff that might not get you the lows you want... also not the loudest. Then you have ported, which can very from playing far lower than a ported box or far louder, or both! But frequencies under the port tuning, without a subsonic filter, can lower your power handling dramatically... also ported boxes require much more airspace... often 2-4x the amount of a sealed! Bandpass... meh, don't waste your time. Infinite Baffle, which basically is a box that it built-in to the floor or ceiling, takes the least amount of space in your room, but requires specific drivers and about 2-4x the total displacement of sealed or ported in order to do the same damage. There are tons of other enclosure types you could use, but those are often far more complex and, unless you have some basic experience in box building and design, as well as tools, is not worth even getting into really.

Good luck with whatever you go with. Just do your research and I'm sure you will be fine.

Oh, and my suggestion....
Get something small and simple. Then, put some tactile transducers on the chair you use (bass shakers are the commonly used ones). The sub will play the sounds your ears can hear easily and the shakers can play the rest. It will feel like you have a couple 18"s subs blasting away at you without pissing off neighbors/room mates/parents/cops/the guy 4 miles down the road.

What are you looking for exactly in "quality"? It seems to be a term that is tossed around a lot without knowledge of what it really is (don't take offense to this!). Quality speakers should be able to...
-Produce a flat response with no more than 3dB of dips or peaks in its given response range
-Have no audible distortion at any given point
-Handle the power than is suited for your needs without harming the speaker or changing its frequency repsonse.

From there, on and off axis response can vary, nearfeild to a full range bookshelf are two different worlds... the list goes on.

One thing to consider, though, is your room plays a HUGE roll in how the speakers sound. You can take the best pair of speakers in the world that place a 10-22K response without ANY fluctuation in the response graph and make them sound like complete crap given the acoustics of a room. Study up on bass traps, diffusers, and broadband absorbers and their effects on residential room's acoustics, then consider speakers. FAR too many people blame speakers for sounding bad when its really the room itself that is causing it.

To further put the point out that its not just the speakers that influence the way they sound, where the speakers are placed make a huge difference alone! For instance, in my recording studio, I build VERY dense and heavy speaker stands for my monitor speakers. In comparison to speaker stands made of wood or that are very light weight, my speakers now put out a considerable amount more bass. All the energy that would be lost in vibrating those stands/enclosure are now forced through the driver and to my ears, giving me much more bang/buck out of them. If you want VERY high quality sound speakers without spending a ton of money, get yourself the same ones I have in my studio...

http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com...air?sku=603201

They play an excellent response between about 45-20K. Anything and everything I play on there leaves me in awe every time, especially considering I only payed $200 for the pair. I could only dream of having a room setup right w/ a 7.1 surround sound setup with these... the gaming experience would be phenomenal.

As if I needed to type any more Anywho, Infinity Kappa's (I'm not trying to be offensive here) are not exactly high end. I would call them midgrade. I personally use Oz Audio Matrix Elite's in my car, along with a sealed Dayton 10" Reference Series and the SQ is decent, though I really would like to upgrade to something with more output capabilities. Anywho, the DIY community is what I really know best, not so much the commercial availability (I mean, really, why pay 2-8x the price for the same thing that you can proudly say you built yourself?)

We get back to "how much room" do you have to work with? Large speakers, often needed for optimal sound quality (but not always! again, don't be fooled by the bigger is better mentality!), so its not always an option. If you don't want to DIY so much, those Alesis monitors would be an easy answer to insane amounts of sound quality. You can build stands for around $30 for the pair and treat a room decently for around $100-200 (possibly less, pending on the room and how you do it!). A full DIY system can range from $300 to $20,000...

If you are up for the challenge, Ill PM you plenty of info on some DIY projects that should be right up your alley.

Nick911

technic sa-400k found that receiver any good? How do I hook up a bass to an amplifier and set up the speakers as well? NoDestiny, I will respond to you once I fully understand what your saying lol

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NoDestiny

lol, sorry, I have a deep passion for audio reproduction.

Techincs SA-400? Are you talking some old school equipment?

A lot of amplifiers for subwoofer setups anymore enclude an in and out for stereo speaker wiring. In other words, you would take the signal from the computer's speaker outputs, go into the amplifier of teh sbuwoofer, then out to the main speakers.

Nick911

I still don't know what you are saying about hooking them up and yes it is old school and was wondering if it was good. http://www.hifi-wiki.de/images/thumb...A_400_back.jpg that is the backside of what I'm talking about. I know that you connect the basses amp to the PC but then how do you connect the bass to the receiver with the speakers as i showed you?

http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com...air?sku=603201 How do they compair to B and W 601's? My type of quality is speakers that sound like the B and W 601's and or sound like the Infinity kappa's I have in my car. That is the quality sound I'm looking for. Next I want a bass to beat the Logitech Z5500 in every aspect.

Size wise I don't want much bigger then the Alesis.

I might use 2 Alesis for the front and use my altec for the back and use the Daytona 12" sub.

speakers suggested are: alesis,Athena Technologies Audition AS-B1, Paradigm Atom. No clue what is the difference.

Sub wise: the Daytona 12", A2 - 250 Subwoofer. No clue what is better but leaning towards Daytona due to the fact they have a high rating, lot of people love them, even on the audio guide on a good bass on this forum.

I mainly Listen to songs that rely on heavy bass and quick responses( same thing with games, they require the same thing so gaming setup will be good for my music)

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Loop: triple Swiftech rad, mcp655,Apogge GT, (5) 800,(1) 1200 RPM fans.
BOXXY CAN DIE!