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Advice with first W/C setup

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone.

First a little background. I'd grown bored with x58 on air (got my 920 to 4.2 @ 1.24v stable) and was planning to move to water, however my case wouldn't allow it (TT Armor+). After putting it off for a while, Sandy Bridge had come out and looked to offer some interesting overclocking headroom, so I'm parting out my x58 build and working on a SB build.

Now I'm waiting on all of the core components to get here and want some opinions on what I'm planning to go with in regards to my water parts.


The components I'm going with are as follows:

i5-2500k (Batch L041C123)
Asus P8P67 Deluxe
Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3
Sapphire Radeon 6990
OCZ Revodrive X2 240GB

I just purchased this M8 case from fshizl the other day:
http://www.overclock.net/cases/998327-fs-case-labs-m8-1.html

As stated on page 2, it comes with 3 XSPC RX360 rads.

So I've got rads that I'm "stuck" with (obviously I didn't mind or I wouldn't have purchased it, but I'm not going to go buy more rads since those were so cheap).

I've also got a Danger Den 6990 waterblock.

I'm now thinking about the following:

Heatkiller 3.0 Copper CPU Block
MCP355 Pump
FrozenCPU FrozenQ 250mm Liquid Fusion V Reservoir
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10277/ex-res-164/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_250mm_Liquid_Fusion_V_Series_2nd_Generation_Reservoir_-_UV_Cathode_-_UV_Blue_Helix.html?tl=g30c97s1110
Scythe Gentle Typhoons in a Push/Pull (if possible)
A PWM fan controller (haven't looked into them much yet)
1/2" tubing
Compression fittings


I planned to just use distilled with silver in the loop.

Now my problems are as follows:

1.) What should my flow look like? I know that it should be res > pump > components, however I don't know if I should split the video card from the cpu and put a rad in between the two or not. (Ex. res > pump > cpu > rad > video > rad > rad vs. res > pump > cpu > video > rad > rad > rad)

2.) Is there a preferred brand of compression fitting and tubing, or will just about any brand work?

3.) Does my parts list look ok as far as what anyone here has experienced? I heard good things about the Heatkiller blocks on the 1366 chips, so I'd assumed it would be the same for the 1155.

4.) Will the pump with 1/2" provide enough head pressure? From what I've read it should be sufficient for a single loop of the size I'm creating, but I need to make sure.

Any and all help and advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks to everyone in advance!
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post #2 of 12
1. The flow pattern looks good. Radiator position is up to you. Because of the heat capacity of water, the temperature within the loop doesn't fluctuate much, so you might see a 2-3 degree change from the CPU to GPU, but the important part is just getting more radiators in the loop total to bring the whole loop temp down.

2. Not really. People like Bitspower and some others (mainly because they're inexpensive I believe). They all seem to be equally well respected. All have the occasional stripped threading from manufacturing, but generally they're fine and it's rare to see problems.

3. Parts look good. Everyone likes the heatkiller, so can't go wrong with that. The difference between high-end waterblocks is very minimal. It still puzzles me why everyone goes for the Heatkiller and EK HF blocks, but nobody goes for the Apogee XT, when they've upgraded it for higher flow and it beats out the other CPU coolers on Skinneelabs' tests. Who knows. I'm using an old Swiftech GTZ on my 2600k, and my chip peters out before it overheats or the motherboard gives up (I'll bring it to 1.4v, but no higher, and it still won't budge past 4.8ghz).

4. I don't know what the 1/2" you're referring to is (if you mean tubing, then that's good, but has nothing to do with head pressure, and if anything 1/2" will have lower head pressure than 3/8" with the same pump), but I would say you should go with a Laing D5 variant for your loop if putting in more than 1 360 radiator. I would say upgrade to the 655 if you plan on multiple rads and whatnot (not a bad idea for future overhead).

That case (and previous setup) is sick. Carry on the legacy!

If you're using a fan controller, then you can get fans that are not gentle typhoons.... Just have your motherboard control them over PWM (like you mentioned). If you have room, since they're the same price, I would get Panaflo medium-speed fans. They rock and do not get loud at all even at full blast, but likely provide more CFM than GTs.

For a fan controller, I've looked around for other people and haven't been able to find anything other than the Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 fan controller. I have one, and it works really well. It is only 6 channel though, so that's fine for 2 radiators, but if going with more you may end up having to split the power at each channel (not a problem with 30w/channel) to fulfill your fan power needs.

Hope that helps biggrin.gif
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks a ton Dr. Gumby!

1.) I thought that was the case from what I had read in regards to temp variances in the loop since the water is moving so quickly, I just wanted to make sure.

2.) Again, thank you, just wanted to check. Rather be safe than sorry! smile.gif

3.) I've looked at the Swiftech, my only concern was that by using distilled I might end up having a problem with corrosion since I couldn't tell if the Apogee XT was copper for the flow area and brass in body only or was brass in the flow area too. My 6990 block is copper and acrylic, which is why I had that concern. If the Apogee XT is indeed copper for the parts that touch water, then I'll gladly go to that instead.

4.) The 1/2" I was referring to was the ID of the tubing, however if you think 3/4" would give me better head pressure I'll plan on using that. My general understanding from my job (utility work) was that the smaller the pipe and bigger the pump the more pressure you would create vs. having larger pipe and a bigger pump giving you more volume. I'm still confused about the difference between pumps. The MCP355 is a Laing DDC variant, and I'm not positive what the difference is with a DDC vs. a D5.

I've heard good things about the Panaflos, I had forgotten about them though until you said something just now. I'm assuming also that the fan controller plugs into the PWM connector for the processor fan?

I wish that FrozenQ res you have for sale was blue. frown.gif

Thanks again for all of the help!
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post #4 of 12
As an owner of a Caselabs M8, I can tell you honestly, it's SUCH a pleasure to work inside it, except you have to walk around it because it's got two different sides, lol. Other than that, it's excellent.
Quote:
1.) What should my flow look like? I know that it should be res > pump > components, however I don't know if I should split the video card from the cpu and put a rad in between the two or not. (Ex. res > pump > cpu > rad > video > rad > rad vs. res > pump > cpu > video > rad > rad > rad)

I don't think you need that many Rads, honestly. Especially with a 6990, it's heat output is minimal for a GPU with it's capabilities. 2 360 rads should suffice for your loop.
Quote:
2.) Is there a preferred brand of compression fitting and tubing, or will just about any brand work?

Depends. Stay away from plastic fittings. I bought bitspower and they're high quality.
Quote:
3.) Does my parts list look ok as far as what anyone here has experienced? I heard good things about the Heatkiller blocks on the 1366 chips, so I'd assumed it would be the same for the 1155.

I'm a little jealous of your parts set up, actually. So yes, it's good.
Quote:
4.) Will the pump with 1/2" provide enough head pressure? From what I've read it should be sufficient for a single loop of the size I'm creating, but I need to make sure.

The MCP655 (Lang D5) pump would be enough for your setup. Sidwinder computers has the top of the line Swiftech 655 for 75 bucks. 1/2" ID would be good.
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks XNine! Appreciate the input and the heads up on a place to grab the pump from!

Honestly, I had never seen the M8 before, I was actually going to go with the 800D, but for what I paid for it and all three rads plus the passthrough work he'd done on it, I couldn't pass it up.
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post #6 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Varalith;13292238 
Thanks XNine! Appreciate the input and the heads up on a place to grab the pump from!

Honestly, I had never seen the M8 before, I was actually going to go with the 800D, but for what I paid for it and all three rads plus the passthrough work he'd done on it, I couldn't pass it up.

Man... All I can say is it IS an enthusiast case, through and through. You won't find a case out there like it. Some people wills ay "buy a mountain mods case" but when you consider the M8 is made completely from Aluminum, and the accessories fit perfectly and you can throw ginormous loops in them... yeah... some of the best out there, by far.

check out CaseLabs here on OCN. You can buy pedestals and all sorts of stuff...
post #7 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Varalith;13291747 
3.) I've looked at the Swiftech, my only concern was that by using distilled I might end up having a problem with corrosion since I couldn't tell if the Apogee XT was copper for the flow area and brass in body only or was brass in the flow area too. My 6990 block is copper and acrylic, which is why I had that concern. If the Apogee XT is indeed copper for the parts that touch water, then I'll gladly go to that instead.

The flow area is copper, but the top is chrome plated probably brass, but whatever it is it's plated with a neutral metal, so you'll be fine. Most of the reputable or recommendable brands these days use non-reactive metals in their work. It's only when air-cooler geniuses go into watercooling (Zalman) or case makers (thermaltake) that you see the wrong metal types used, or when people insist that a car radiator (aluminum) is the best way to save a buck or two but then don't run anti-corrosion agents in their loop that you see galvanization happen and mixing of galvanizing metals. You'll be fine sticking to reputable brands. That being said, just read a bunch of reviews and determine which block is best for you. I'd hate to sway anyone's opinion without having personally used the blocks myself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Varalith;13291747 
4.) The 1/2" I was referring to was the ID of the tubing, however if you think 3/4" would give me better head pressure I'll plan on using that. My general understanding from my job (utility work) was that the smaller the pipe and bigger the pump the more pressure you would create vs. having larger pipe and a bigger pump giving you more volume. I'm still confused about the difference between pumps. The MCP355 is a Laing DDC variant, and I'm not positive what the difference is with a DDC vs. a D5.

I would stick with 1/2" tubing. You want the most flow you can get, and honestly I'd rather have lower pressure and higher volume than lower volume and higher pressure. I'm sure our tubing and fittings and whatnot can handle the pressure, but it's just one less thing to worry about.

The DDC is the smaller pump, the D5 is the bigger pump. They're both the base versions of what many other manufacturers are going with. The DDC also has a few different revisions, equating to different flow speeds and features. The Swiftech DDC3.2 (I believe) based MCP35x has not only great pumping qualities known for the newer DDCs, but it also has a custom PCB that allows for PWM control through a motherboard header (though this doesn't make sense to me why you'd change pump speed on a circuit)(also, sorry for the acronym overload tongue.gif )
Quote:
Originally Posted by Varalith;13291747 
I've heard good things about the Panaflos, I had forgotten about them though until you said something just now. I'm assuming also that the fan controller plugs into the PWM connector for the processor fan?

I had always heard great things since I've been doing the watercooling thing for about 5 or so years now, but never had the opportunity to play with them until now. That being said, I can't find damn 40-42mm M4 threaded screws locally to mount them, so I haven't, but hopefully soon I'll get them installed. I'm just happy that I have a fan controller that adjusts fan speed according to temperatures. I don't hear my fans at all until I crank up Civ5 or Battlefield Bad Company 2 in Eyefinity mode (about 72% speed). Hopefully the panaflos will not even have to load up that much since they've got much better static pressure, and my radiator loves static pressure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Varalith;13291747 
I wish that FrozenQ res you have for sale was blue. frown.gif

Hah, me too. You're about the third or fourth person to tell me that tongue.gif I appreciate it though. Best of luck on your build! Keep us updated.
post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info Dr. Gumby.

I'm planning on doing a build log so I'll definitely let you know what's going on!
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post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Ok, so I need you guys to weigh in again, I ended up getting an MCP655-b for $40 shipped. I'm hoping this will work in my loop, but I'm having trouble getting any definitive information regarding MCP655 vs MCP655-b.

Thanks!
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post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Varalith;13351676 
Ok, so I need you guys to weigh in again, I ended up getting an MCP655-b for $40 shipped. I'm hoping this will work in my loop, but I'm having trouble getting any definitive information regarding MCP655 vs MCP655-b.

Thanks!

I know they make one with a speed controller and one without... That might be the difference
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