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post #31 of 53
I still say drilling out the rivots, disassembling the case, and pop rivoting back together after painting, is still the way to go and not hard to do at all. You'll get a much better paint job. Here's my HAF932 broken down and sanded before paint:



Tape up each piece that you don't want to kit paint on. In this case, I was only painting the inside of the case flat black:



Then hang the pieces, outside is best, on a line so you have easy access to all the paintable surfaces:



One of the hardest parts is removing and reinstalling the "quick connects". You might as well paint them also once you have them off. I used Krylon "plastic" paint for these. Lift the end of each "quick connect" with a small screwdriver and slide them sidewards over the stops to remove. After I painted the case, I reinstalled them by placing a 1/2" wide piece of flexible plastic over the stops to prevent scratching, a slid them back on:



The finished project before installing any equipment. A big differance from the unfinished silver interior of the HAF932. You'll need a pop rivot gun and some 1/8" rivots:



The best thing about painting it yourself, is you'll have a case like no one else:

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Blue & Gold X79
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post #32 of 53
Yoyoyo,

I'd just like to point out that the instructions on the paint can should always be the ones you listen to, and IMO to say any amounts of time on generally painting a case is stupid.
It always differs with temperature, the paint, and other stuff!
    
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post #33 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiivari View Post
Yoyoyo,

I'd just like to point out that the instructions on the paint can should always be the ones you listen to, and IMO to say any amounts of time on generally painting a case is stupid.
It always differs with temperature, the paint, and other stuff!
ya its probably not a bad Idea, but if you hadn't noticed I said to leave the paint to dry for like a day. which Is way longer than any spray paint will need to dry. Hell even regular brush paint would have sufficient time to dry with that amount of time!

I'm not sure what you mean when you are saying it always differs with temperature, the paint and other stuff. Temps only affect the pressure inside of the can not the actual dry time. Yes different brand paints do have different dry times, but almost all under 20minutes unless your using textured paint. and other stuff? You are refering to humidity? In which case it does affect the dry time, which Is why said to let the paint dry for so long.
Edited by (mirror)52-D.S.L. - 4/30/11 at 6:10am
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post #34 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ski-bum View Post
I still say drilling out the rivots, disassembling the case, and pop rivoting back together after painting, is still the way to go and not hard to do at all. You'll get a much better paint job. Here's my HAF932 broken down and sanded before paint:



Tape up each piece that you don't want to kit paint on. In this case, I was only painting the inside of the case flat black:



Then hang the pieces, outside is best, on a line so you have easy access to all the paintable surfaces:



One of the hardest parts is removing and reinstalling the "quick connects". You might as well paint them also once you have them off. I used Krylon "plastic" paint for these. Lift the end of each "quick connect" with a small screwdriver and slide them sidewards over the stops to remove. After I painted the case, I reinstalled them by placing a 1/2" wide piece of flexible plastic over the stops to prevent scratching, a slid them back on:



The finished project before installing any equipment. A big differance from the unfinished silver interior of the HAF932. You'll need a pop rivot gun and some 1/8" rivots:

it would definitely make it easier to sand if you could take out the rivets. But how many of us have a rivet gun? I'm sure you are one of the lucky few geeks on here with power tools like that

I like the color scheme, very well done!
I see your from MAss! where are you from?

You should consider joining the Massachusetts OC club
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post #35 of 53
A rivit gun is not a power tool. They are really inexpensive.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/deluxe-hand....jcwx?TID=7900

I used one just like this one.
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Blue & Gold X79
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post #36 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ski-bum View Post
A rivit gun is not a power tool. They are really inexpensive.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/deluxe-hand....jcwx?TID=7900

I used one just like this one.
oh dam, thats what that is? my dad has one!

well thanks for the info, I had no Idea.
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post #37 of 53
What about painting the plastic parts of the case?
post #38 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LostRib View Post
What about painting the plastic parts of the case?
same proccess, just make sure the spray paint is made for plastic. if you're not sure ask your local homedepot guy.
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post #39 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by (mirror)52-D.S.L. View Post
same proccess, just make sure the spray paint is made for plastic. if you're not sure ask your local homedepot guy.
sanding and everything?
post #40 of 53
What if i wanted it be Matte?
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