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Learn to paint! (now with pics!) - Page 5

post #41 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Modus View Post
I just applied he primer after sanding and cleaning the case.
Should I sand it lightly after he primer dries and then add another coat of primer?
There are some spots that I couldnt reach
All primer sufacers should be sanded or scuffed before topcoat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by (mirror)52-D.S.L. View Post
na you wont need to sand it. The only reason you want to sand down any of the layers is to smooth out the paint in order to make it look perfectly flat and shiny.

You wont need to sand the primer it's not necessary because the paint will cover it anyways.

It ok if you there are some spots you can't reach, if you can't see them it wouldn't matter either way.
The only primer that would not need to be sanded is a non-sanding primer sealer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by (mirror)52-D.S.L. View Post
same process, just make sure the spray paint is made for plastic. if you're not sure ask your local homedepot guy.
All acrylics will work on plastic parts if prepped properly.

Glad to see the tutorial, pics go a long way in helping others.
    
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post #42 of 53
Woah looks sweet
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post #43 of 53
Is it possible to get a durable paint job with rattle cans? I've tried on like three cases with everything from cheapo paint to Duplicolor and every time it will scrape off as soon as you screw something in or put the side panel on. Would using an adhesion promoter make the difference?

I've pretty much given up on trying to paint
     
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post #44 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LostRib View Post
sanding and everything?
Yup

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedster159 View Post
What if i wanted it be Matte?
If you want it to be matte, then use Matte or flat paint. No clearcoat
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post #45 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentHydra View Post
Is it possible to get a durable paint job with rattle cans? I've tried on like three cases with everything from cheapo paint to Duplicolor and every time it will scrape off as soon as you screw something in or put the side panel on. Would using an adhesion promoter make the difference?

I've pretty much given up on trying to paint
Not really, maybe if you used a ton of clearcoat
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post #46 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by LostRib View Post
What about painting the plastic parts of the case?
I used Krylon Fusion for pastic. After 24hrs it's suppose to be 100% chip proof. I did not sand or do anything to the plastic and the pieces came out perfect.
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post #47 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by ski-bum View Post
I used Krylon Fusion for pastic. After 24hrs it's suppose to be 100% chip proof. I did not sand or do anything to the plastic and the pieces came out perfect.
I love that ****. I've been using it for years on all sorts of plastics.
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post #48 of 53
I'm planning to redo the case. not happy with some parts. while applying primer to the HDD cage, some primer landed on the drying case. it gives a really rough feel and slightly white.

I'll be picking up a dremel and some additional tools to undo the rivets.

How much sanding should I do? completely remove the old coat or just enough to give a rough finish?
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post #49 of 53
nice guide mate i have a question..is this the same step if i want to redo my recent paint job??well i just want to see the glossy and shiny finish..and what type of canned spray paint you use??

am using the regular canned paints that are enamel acrylic base..
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post #50 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Modus View Post
I'm planning to redo the case. not happy with some parts. while applying primer to the HDD cage, some primer landed on the drying case. it gives a really rough feel and slightly white.

I'll be picking up a dremel and some additional tools to undo the rivets.

How much sanding should I do? completely remove the old coat or just enough to give a rough finish?
Just rough it up with 320 or scotch brite pad
    
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