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[Officia]l ASUS ROG Maximus IV GENE-Z68 & Z68(Gen3) Owners Club - Page 93

post #921 of 7108
Oh man... I have been leak testing my loop for about 14 hours now. It doesn't leak at all. Until I turn the pump off that is. It is a manufacturers defect as well. It is leaking at a seam in my res. Nowhere near anything I had to do anything to.

This sucks.

Has anyone ever liquid cooled with a leak like this? Can I just use silicone around it and forget it?
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post #922 of 7108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovlazek;14328800 
Has anyone ever liquid cooled with a leak like this? Can I just use silicone around it and forget it?

I think you would have better chance of answers in the Water Colling Owners thread or something similar, I remember someone's signature showing this here.
post #923 of 7108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovlazek;14328800 
Oh man... I have been leak testing my loop for about 14 hours now. It doesn't leak at all. Until I turn the pump off that is. It is a manufacturers defect as well. It is leaking at a seam in my res. Nowhere near anything I had to do anything to.
This sucks.
Has anyone ever liquid cooled with a leak like this? Can I just use silicone around it and forget it?

IF it's a "manufacturers defect" why wouldn't you want to return it for a new one, or different make and avoid trying to band-aid it ?

IF you try silicone, make sure the surface is completely dry first, otherwise it won't stick (or at least won't for long), you'd probably be better off using something else on plastic (if that's what it is, on glass silicone would be OK) like maybe an epoxy resin or something that can fill and repair the seam rather than just patch over it.


Disclaimer: This advice is based on 30 years as a licensed roofing contractor and dealing with waterproofing leaks often with silicone and other materials, it is not intended for use as an expert computer tech advice on water cooling and should be used at your own risk. cheers.gif
   
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post #924 of 7108
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA_Kings_Fan;14330355 
IF it's a "manufacturers defect" why wouldn't you want to return it for a new one, or different make and avoid trying to band-aid it ?

IF you try silicone, make sure the surface is completely dry first, otherwise it won't stick (or at least won't for long), you'd probably be better off using something else on plastic (if that's what it is, on glass silicone would be OK) like maybe an epoxy resin or something that can fill and repair the seam rather than just patch over it.


Disclaimer: This advice is based on 30 years as a licensed roofing contractor and dealing with waterproofing leaks often with silicone and other materials, it is not intended for use as an expert computer tech advice on water cooling and should be used at your own risk. cheers.gif

Thanks for your input!
This is just really strange. Last night this problem was happening. Now when I turn my pump off, absolutely nothing comes out of the res. Do I just forget it? Hahaha. Anyways I was thinking silicone or something because I would rather not empty and take apart my loop. But now the problem seems to have gone away so I suppose I will just forget it for now. headscratch.gif
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post #925 of 7108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovlazek;14330640 
Thanks for your input!
This is just really strange. Last night this problem was happening. Now when I turn my pump off, absolutely nothing comes out of the res. Do I just forget it? Hahaha. Anyways I was thinking silicone or something because I would rather not empty and take apart my loop. But now the problem seems to have gone away so I suppose I will just forget it for now. headscratch.gif

Might be a noobish question since I've never done Water-Cooling ... but, is there maybe some rubber gasket or seal in the pump or reservoir that maybe had to get primed (wet) before it actually "sealed" the system making it water tight ? thus why it mysteriously is now fixed. I've seen this in other types of applications, so just a thought. BUT if the leak comes back, I would strongly advise draining it and fixing it the PROPER way, rather than band-aiding it. You've got EXPENSIVE components inside there, no need to risk all that stuff over being lazy. rolleyes.gifkookoo.gif
   
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post #926 of 7108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovlazek;14330640 
Thanks for your input!
This is just really strange. Last night this problem was happening. Now when I turn my pump off, absolutely nothing comes out of the res. Do I just forget it? Hahaha. Anyways I was thinking silicone or something because I would rather not empty and take apart my loop. But now the problem seems to have gone away so I suppose I will just forget it for now. headscratch.gif

First, which reservoir is it? Where is it leaking specifically? For example, if it's an EK tube res and it is leaking at the top of the tube when you shut down, it just means you have to release the pressure that has formed from bleeding the system. Once the pressure has been released it should be fine. If it's a bay res and it leaks at a seam, then pull it, otherwise you will eventually have a failure.
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post #927 of 7108
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA_Kings_Fan;14330764 
Might be a noobish question since I've never done Water-Cooling ... but, is there maybe some rubber gasket or seal in the pump or reservoir that maybe had to get primed (wet) before it actually "sealed" the system making it water tight ? thus why it mysteriously is now fixed. I've seen this in other types of applications, so just a thought. BUT if the leak comes back, I would strongly advise draining it and fixing it the PROPER way, rather than band-aiding it. You've got EXPENSIVE components inside there, no need to risk all that stuff over being lazy. rolleyes.gifkookoo.gif

You pretty much read my mind. I thought the exact same priming thing. If it does come back I will tear it all apart I suppose. Sigh...
Quote:
Originally Posted by utnorris;14330993 
First, which reservoir is it? Where is it leaking specifically? For example, if it's an EK tube res and it is leaking at the top of the tube when you shut down, it just means you have to release the pressure that has formed from bleeding the system. Once the pressure has been released it should be fine. If it's a bay res and it leaks at a seam, then pull it, otherwise you will eventually have a failure.

It is specifically an EK X-Res 100 so it mounts on top of my pump. But it was leaking at the base of the res, where the cylinder meets the rectangular pump top (Acetal meets acetal not acrylic meets acetal). I still have the leak test going and everything seems fine now. headscratch.gif
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post #928 of 7108
Hello GENE-Z owners!

I am currently in the process of putting together the components for my new computer and this board has caught my eye!

I've been building a list on Newegg and i was curious to see what others think. Any advice would be great!

I plan to use this computer for both gaming purposes, programming, and maybe a bit of 3D model work.
post #929 of 7108
I'd take one high-end video card over two mid-range in SLI.

Also, and please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that hyperthreading (in the i7 CPU's) would be useful when doing 3d work. That might be worth going for.
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post #930 of 7108
Reposting because somehow I ended up posting on the Maximus owner's board isntead of this one, sorry for the double post.

First off sorry for the lengthy post but I wanted to get as much info in here as possible in case someone could help me.

My problem: I'm unable to get drivers loaded for my network card under Windows Home Server 2011. When the server reboots right after install it says that there is a problem "A network device driver was not found". I check the BIOS and it's enabled so that wasn't the problem. The ethernet cable is plugged in but only flashes orange - while it shows green and flashes orange on my laptop when plugged in.

I tried using the Asus drivers from the included DVD but WHS said it couldn't find any drivers. So I went to the Intel site and downloaded the latest drivers (ProWinx64.exe v16.3 - ProWinx64 because I'm using 64-bit and that one includes Windows Server 2008 R2 which supposedly WHS is based on). After extracting on a different cmoputer and digging thru them it appears I want to use:

e1q62x64.inf from the ..\PRO1000\Winx64\NDIS62 directory.

I figured this because I read on page 39 of this thread that the Asus Gene-Z uses the 82583V chipset. And the e1q62x64.inf file includes that one as shown below. The problem is: ALL of the other names show up, EXCEPT 82583V (even though it shows up in the .inf file). (I'm using the first part of the procedure to update drivers as outlined here: http://www.missingremote.com/guide/installing-server-os-intel-media-series-motherboards) - but my driver isn't showing up.

I thought maybe it had already loaded it but when I go to the regular windows drive and search (without switching to the USB card I have downloaded the drivers to) I'm still not seeing the 82583V listed.

Hopefully I'm missing something simple but any help is much appreciated.

Main questions:

Why is the driver not showing up to let me specify which one to choose (but all the others are)?

Is there a way to force the driver install?

Does the flashing orange mean something (I read it means 100mbs vs. 1000mbs which seems odd since it's a gigabit lan)?

Any other suggestions are much appreciated

Below is part of e1q62x64.inf file where it shows all the names.

E10A7NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82575EB Gigabit Network Connection"
E10A9NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82575EB Gigabit Backplane Connection"
E10D6NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) Gigabit VT Quad Port Server Adapter"
E10A7DD.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82575EB Multi-Function Network Device"
E10D3NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82574L Gigabit Network Connection"
E150CNC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82583V Gigabit Network Connection"
EA01FNC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) Gigabit CT Desktop Adapter"
EA01FHFNC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) Gigabit CT2 Desktop Adapter"
E10C9LNC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82576 Gigabit Dual Port Network Connection"
E10C9NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) Gigabit ET Dual Port Server Adapter"
E150A.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82576NS Gigabit Ethernet Controller"
E150ALNC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82576NS Gigabit Network Connection"
E1518.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82576NS SerDes Gigabit Ethernet Controller"
E10E6NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) Gigabit EF Dual Port Server Adapter"
E10E7NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82576 Gigabit Dual Port Server Network Connection"
E10E8NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) Gigabit ET Quad Port Server Adapter"
E1526NC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) Gigabit ET2 Quad Port Server Adapter"
E10E6LNC.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) 82576 Gigabit Dual Port Network Connection"
E150D.DeviceDesc = "Intel(R) Gigabit ET Quad Port Mezzanine Card"
E3250HPNC.DeviceDesc = "HP NC112T PCIe Gigabit Server Adapter"
E323FHPNC.DeviceDesc = "HP NC362i Integrated DP Gigabit Server Adapter"
E31FFHPNC.DeviceDesc = "HP NC362i Integrated DP BL-c Gigabit Server Adapter"
E1785HPNC.DeviceDesc = "HP NC112i 1-port Ethernet Server Adapter"
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