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1st TEC cooling HELP - Page 3

post #21 of 28
Strike that reverse it

Basically in a Direct Die block you have from top to bottom (cpu):

Water Cooling using Radiators to remove heat.
Water Block
HOT side of TEC
Cold side of TEC
Heat spreader/Cold Plate (like the base of a normal waterblock)
Cold delivered directly to CPU
CPU


For a chiller it is a little more complicated:
There are two separate loops.

HOT Loop
Water Cooling using radiators to remove heat.
Water Block
HOT side of TEC
Cold side of TEC
Water Block / Chiller Block
Water Cooling loop NO RADIATORS
Chilled water to another water block on CPU
Cold delivered to CPU via chilled liquid loop.
CPU

Basically...

Regards,
Ello
    
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post #22 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elloquin View Post
Strike that reverse it

Basically in a Direct Die block you have from top to bottom (cpu):

Water Cooling using Radiators to remove heat.
Water Block
HOT side of TEC
Cold side of TEC
Heat spreader/Cold Plate (like the base of a normal waterblock)
Cold delivered directly to CPU
CPU


For a chiller it is a little more complicated:
There are two separate loops.

HOT Loop
Water Cooling using radiators to remove heat.
Water Block
HOT side of TEC
Cold side of TEC
Water Block / Chiller Block
Water Cooling loop NO RADIATORS
Chilled water to another water block on CPU
Cold delivered to CPU via chilled liquid loop.
CPU

Basically...

Regards,
Ello
Yeah I edited my question a minute later,(kinda figured it out) but the one question still remains condensation! and just use a cold plate from a old heat sink or water block? or how about just a piece of 1/4" copper lapped flat? I am thinking of using the first method seems cheaper to start out with as I don't have enough to make a second loop!
post #23 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradford1040 View Post
Yeah I edited my question a minute later,(kinda figured it out) but the one question still remains condensation! and just use a cold plate from a old heat sink or water block? or how about just a piece of 1/4" copper lapped flat? I am thinking of using the first method seems cheaper to start out with as I don't have enough to make a second loop!
That's how I got my feet wet so to speak. Except I used aluminum since I had it laying around. An old water block wont work here as a cold plate as the one side will be machined with whatever cooling method (pins channels etc) it employs. I just took 2 1/4" aluminum plates and lapped em down with 800 and then 1000 grit automotive wet/dry (i did it wet goes a bit faster but uses more paper) sandpaper from the local auto shop. The plates were cut to size to the TEC I was using leaving room at the corners so I could drill holes and then nut and bolt the TEC between the two plates. Then i slapped an off the shelf waterblock on it and played around with it

Here's a pic: http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-te...ml#post9366153

As for condensation either use a TEC that won't take the temps sub ambient (lots of math and charts ) or just insulate the board http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-te...ecing-sub.html

Regards,
Ello
Edited by Elloquin - 5/9/11 at 9:59am
    
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post #24 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elloquin View Post
That's how I got my feet wet so to speak. Except I used aluminum since I had it laying around. An old water block wont work here as a cold plate as the one side will be machined with whatever cooling method (pins channels etc) it employs. I just took 2 1/4" aluminum plates and lapped em down with 800 and then 1000 grit automotive wet/dry (i did it wet goes a bit faster but uses more paper) sandpaper from the local auto shop. The plates were cut to size to the TEC I was using leaving room at the corners so I could drill holes and then nut and bolt the TEC between the two plates. Then i slapped an off the shelf waterblock on it and played around with it

Here's a pic: http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-te...ml#post9366153

As for condensation either use a TEC that won't take the temps sub ambient (lots of math and charts ) or just insulate the board http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-te...ecing-sub.html

Regards,
Ello
well, I read a lot of both of those! I want to get cold but don't know if this TEC is for me. I am just wanting to have a great system but still wanting stable 24/7 and as everything in this world when you start pushing things they are not going to be stable. I still don't understand why after 3years we are still seeing CPU's 3.5ghz out why have they not got one 5ghz? (stock)

so if I were to get into TEC what are the real benefits on a 24/7 gamer?
post #25 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradford1040 View Post
OK, I am a little confused on number one and two lol, no just number one, so the TEC cold side is on the waterblock? and the hot side would be on the CPU? or am I just stupid and reading that wrong
Sorry I should have been a little more clear - my bad.

The TEC coldside sits on a copper coldplate that sits directly on the CPU. Basically the copper coldplate in between is used as a spreader. It is not a waterblock, it is a thin piece of copper that is at least the same size as the TEC(s) being used

I have edited my earlier post for better explanation


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradford1040 View Post
Yeah I edited my question a minute later,(kinda figured it out) but the one question still remains condensation!
Actually that is the be all and end all question for TEC cooling in a daily rig

Without the ability to control the TEC coldside temp, it is pretty much pointless using it in a daily rig because of the condensation - you'll have to waterproof your rig entirely - and that's not as easy as it sounds for a daily rig.

This is why a cheap PWM voltage controller with temp feedback is needed. Once this is available, TEC cooling will be possible on a daily rig without the worry of condensation, because you will simply set the TEC coldside temp above the dew point
Edited by un-nefer - 5/9/11 at 7:13pm
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post #26 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by un-nefer View Post
Sorry I should have been a little more clear - my bad.

The TEC coldside sits on a copper coldplate that sits directly on the CPU. Basically the copper coldplate in between is used as a spreader. It is not a waterblock, it is a thin piece of copper that is at least the same size as the TEC(s) being used

I have edited my earlier post for better explanation
NO problem's dude, I really like the help! I am still thinking about it, I want to push my system some more but don't think this is really 24/7 stuff or is it?
post #27 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradford1040 View Post
I want to push my system some more but don't think this is really 24/7 stuff or is it?
Mine will be

It's all about the controller
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post #28 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by pelplouffe View Post
Wich mean for my pc the best cooling i can get is my watercooling system?
I reccomend the XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 for sandy bridge. That'll be the only cooling you'll need for a long time... Unless you want a 5.5GHz overclock-which wouldn't be a surprise since this is overclock.net.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradford1040 View Post
NO problem's dude, I really like the help! I am still thinking about it, I want to push my system some more but don't think this is really 24/7 stuff or is it?
This is overclock.net, I thought more people would be in support for extreme cooling solutions.
Edited by asuperpower - 6/19/11 at 4:39pm
   
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