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Radiators Scalding hot - Not enough? - Page 13

post #121 of 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by driftingforlife View Post
I think that isn't good.I think you should strip the loop down and test the pump by watching the flow into a sink or summin and giveing the RAD a good clean.
I agree with this just because I go cheapest/simplest test first. Also really for 2 blocks and 2 rads, especially if plan on growing, imo I prefer MCP655/D5 for that many. I use my MCP350 with one block and one rad, could add 1 block but wouldn't want/feel comfotable with any more then that due to restrictions. That's just me though as an MCP355 is a capable pump, so don't get me wrong it has it's place.

But it does sound like a flow/pump issue in the end. Wc'ing is pretty simple so only so many factors can come into play. As has been mentioned before, however blockage by debris can come outta nowhere even if you think you got that rad 100% clean.

Edit: Don't forget on the tubing the warmer it is the easier it is to pinch, bend, and manipulate. SO if it's warm/hot that is why it is so pliable. Try pinching a section right after the first rad?
Edited by rx7racer - 5/3/11 at 5:43pm
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post #122 of 184
Just have a look at you 580 block, is all the nickel still there.
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post #123 of 184
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7racer View Post
Edit: Don't forget on the tubing the warmer it is the easier it is to pinch, bend, and manipulate. SO if it's warm/hot that is why it is so pliable. Try pinching a section right after the first rad?
All the tubing is pretty cool at the moment since it's been idle for a few hours. Although, the tubing going from the pump to the first radiator is much harder to squeeze. It seems the water is losing its pressure in the first radiator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by driftingforlife View Post
Just have a look at you 580 block, is all the nickel still there.
It's funny you should say that because I looked the other day and there is quite a large brown patch. it's on the higher part of the block (not in the direct flow) so i thought it was just oxidization and thought nothing of it. Does this mean anything?
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post #124 of 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Outcasst View Post
All the tubing is pretty cool at the moment since it's been idle for a few hours. Although, the tubing going from the pump to the first radiator is much harder to squeeze. It seems the water is losing its pressure in the first radiator.
So is the water/tubing going into the gpu warmer then what it is coming out of the pump and into the rad.?

If so you have a good place to start looking, as it should be as cool if not cooler since it just went through a rad.
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post #125 of 184
Im am thinking that some nickel might have come off and it has blocked something.
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post #126 of 184
Is the rad on the top taking air out of the case or pushing it in? Are the case fans blowing into the case or sucking air out?

If the top rad is pulling air out of of the case through the rad, then the rad is being "cooled" with the warmer our coming out of your bottom rad plus any heat being generated by the other components.

For those who keep saying that it's a pump issue and the heat is being transferred to the rad via convection, you need to remember, the CPU/GPU are putting out heat regardless of how fast the water is moving. If the water is moving too slowly then the heat is not going to be transferred fast enough to the rads for them to be overloaded, if anything, a loop where there water is moving too slow would have a cool rad and the CPU/GPU temps would be continually climbing. You have to remember that if the water is staying in the CPU/GPU longer, it is also staying in the rads longer and therefore has more time to cool.

To the OP, can you take the picture of your case and draw arrows of the air flow directions for the rads and the case fans?

Also, what is the flow direction of your loop? CPU>GPU>BottomRad>Pump/Res>TopRad>CPU?
If so, the bottom rad should be getting hotter than the top rad unless the top rad is pulling heated air out of your case.
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post #127 of 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Outcasst View Post
That is correct. Also, should the tubing be so easy to squeeze? I can squeeze them almost completely closed very easily and not feel much water pressure, especially just after the CPU block.
Really there wouldn't be a whole lot of pressure to start with. The ability to squeeze the hose depends on the hose used. Some hose is very stiff others much more pliable but subject to kinks.

From the flow routing you describe I would def without a doubt say pump or a large blockage internally.

Two ways to test one get another pump slap it in and see what happens.

Second eliminate a section of the loop. Basically you could eliminate any single item from the loop with a couple plugs and a union all available at a local hardware store.

First I would pull the loop out of the case leave the res as you won't need it for the test. Use a bucket or something so you can feel the outflow from the hose as it returns. Test the pump alone and see if flow is strong. If so move on to step two. Eliminate one item from the entire loop. ie rad or cpu block etc. and test the flow then add it back in and eliminate another. Continue doing this until you find your blockage.
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post #128 of 184
This makes me scared for my EK 580 block.
post #129 of 184
Yea, It's a pain in the butt, but you're going to be best off by tearing down that loop and flushing.

Wish you much fun with that.
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post #130 of 184
Does your block look like this?
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ck-issues.html
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