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Radiators Scalding hot - Not enough? - Page 14

post #131 of 184
With the new info, I would drain the loop and be sure to give the top radiator a good flush. If it has become blocked that would inhibit flow. I think it would be possible to cause pump damage if it's been blocked for any amount of time - but that's beyond my knowledge. As a $$$ saver, dismantle and clean the loop (both rads, the block, etc) - reassemble and see if the problem is fixed (especially if you discover a blockage in the top radiator). If that does not fix the problem - replace the pump.
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post #132 of 184
I would say you have some sort of blockage in your rad. I'm using the base rasa 240 kit with a second 240 rad. Did you say you have an AP-15 on the back of the case?

If I didn't mis-read, take that off. It may be sucking the air away from the top rad.
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post #133 of 184
Honesty, to me a weak pump sounds like the culprit. The fact that the tubes get more "squeezable" the further along the loop sounds like a decrease in the pressure. Kinda like when you first turn on your garden hose and it doesn't get hard until the flow is good (giggidy). A more powerful pump would keep the coolant flow higher throughout the loop. The higher the pressure in your tubes and the faster flow rate will keep your temps down. This would also explain why the temps increase the further you are into your loop (besides the fact that the coolant is passing over the GPU and CPU). The bottom rad is cooler because the pressure is higher and there's a greater amount of coolant flowing through it....then the loop goes to sh@#.

If there was a blockage in your top rad wouldn't the pressure stay pretty high until it hits the top rad? Like the out tube from the top rad would be squishy and the in tube wouldn't.
Edited by mwayne5 - 5/3/11 at 6:01pm
post #134 of 184
The only thing issue I have with testing the flow with a bucket of water is he has no way to compare it with the flow when he bought the pump. I would start with buying a new pump and moving on from there or flushing the system and seeing if that improves your temps. If you have nickel falling off one of your blocks then that could restrict the flow or even be the reason that your pump is going to crap.

The harder the pump has to work the faster is going to die and the more heat it will add to the line.
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post #135 of 184
Hmm. This is good info.

I was recently thinking of switching to a sandy bridge build.

I currently doing 50 c on my CPU and 65 c on my gpu full load. My rad is on the outside of the case though.
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post #136 of 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by subliminally incorrect View Post
Hmm. This is good info.

I was recently thinking of switching to a sandy bridge build.

I currently doing 50 c on my CPU and 65 c on my gpu full load. My rad is on the outside of the case though.
His GPU block is flaking nickle into his loop and clogging it it not a problem with his CPU.
post #137 of 184
You could get this to test. It is a 350 which is not as good as the 355 but for £45 it isn't bad.

http://www.overclock.net/cooling-pro...-xspc-top.html
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post #138 of 184
wow just wow im sorry to hear your problems i would say take a compressed air machine and put the hose on the outtake part and blow the metal piece or blockage out where it came but i don't know if that would hurt it.
p.s. also other things i can think of is alega or dye build up
Edited by everlast42987 - 5/3/11 at 6:17pm
    
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post #139 of 184
I'm running 2x MCP 350s with Tygon 7/16 3/8" OD. It's nearly impossible to squeeze the tubes near the outlet and much easier to squeeze near the pump inlets. I'd say this is a pretty good measure of pump strength.
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post #140 of 184
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rancor View Post

A little. Mine's more of a deep brown colour rather than black.
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