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Trying to get into modding, and need some help. - Page 2

post #11 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post
I guess I just referred to crosscut blades as finishing blades kinda in line with the nomenclature used for nail guns.

Checking my saw, the blade I normally use is indeed a 10" 60T crosscut blade. I have never used a veneer blade since they're a lot more expensive (I got a 2-pack with a framing blade and the crosscut for about the same price as a single blade); I just know that Syrillian swears by tem.
I've never loaded a veneer blade into a circular saw before to be totally honest, I just know from table saw experience they tend to bind if you're not really careful, and the thicker the material you're cutting the more careful you have to be. Source: I grew up in a wood shop.

I've never cut acrylic with a veneer blade, I would bet you'd get nice results, it would just be very difficult to get them consistently (again speculation based on my experience cutting veneer with them).

Crosscut blades are much easier to work with in terms of not binding and the longevity of the blade (if you buy a decent one of course), and with the 220-grit mouse -> buffing pad -> polishing wheel method I can take a fresh 2-foot long cut to a mirror sheen in about 5 minutes max.
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Maximum Dwarf
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Density!
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Win 7 Ultimate 3x 1920x1080 LG IPS displays. Razer Mass Effect 3 Blackwidow Ultimate Cooler Master Silent Pro M850 
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Silverstone TJ08B-E R.A.T. 7 An ergonomic one 
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i7 3770k Gigabyte Sniper M3 1155 mATX CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600MHz 1TB WD RE4 
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post #12 of 17
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys. I'm getting a lot of info here. I'm going to wright this stuff down and take a trip to Home Depot this week!
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Ramona
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post #13 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTRLurself [Knyte Custom] View Post
220-grit -> buffing pad -> polishing wheel method I can take a fresh 2-foot long cut to a mirror sheen in about 5 minutes max.
Agreed, this works awesome.
RAD GT
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RAD GT
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post #14 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post
For straight cuts, the circular saw will actually work better than a jigsaw; just be sure to clamp some sort of a guide to the panel to ensure straight cuts. The biggest suggestion I can make for the circ saw is to get a finishing or preferably veneer blade as they will produce a much smoother cut than a framing blade would.
What would you suggest to use as a guide? I'd be a little nervous at fist of actually cutting into the guide.
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Ramona
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post #15 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeWillzyx View Post
What would you suggest to use as a guide? I'd be a little nervous at fist of actually cutting into the guide.
Essentially clamp a straight edge (e.g. thick metal ruler) onto the panel parallel to the cut; then the base of the saw will ride against the guide. See the pic below.

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RAD GT
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post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post
Essentially clamp a straight edge (e.g. thick metal ruler) onto the panel parallel to the cut; then the base of the saw will ride against the guide. See the pic below.

Ahh. nice. Will do.

P.s. I hope you didn't take that picture just to show me what you meant. I would feel kind of bad that you went out of your way to give me a visual.
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Ramona
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post #17 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeWillzyx View Post
P.s. I hope you didn't take that picture just to show me what you meant. I would feel kind of bad that you went out of your way to give me a visual.
no, just did a google image search for a good illustrative pic.
RAD GT
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RAD GT
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