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Best TIM out there? (Price doesen't matter) - Page 4

post #31 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post
As was mentioned on the first page 80 way comparison . And see my sig, cause that's what I use.

Honestly though the people that say XXX TIM improved my temps by 10 C and all that BS probably aren't applying it properly. It's supposed to be such a thin layer that it has very minimal impact on heat transfer. For ex. mica is a thermal insulator yet it's also used to electrically isolate heatsinks from transistor packages. "Isn't that a contradiction...thermally isolating a heatsink?" Not really because it's so thin it doesn't matter.
10c is a bit much, but TIM dose matter, and diffrent TIM's offer different temps. If it "didnt matter" then there wouldnt be any tim used at all. out of the 15-16 paste's i have used, I have only seen a 2c drop MAX off my high end. ICD provided the best temps so far, have yet to use top shelf Shin Etsu, Chill FactorIII is working pretty well in its test ATM.
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post #32 of 43
Make sure you buy IC Diamond 24 and not IC Diamond 7. The 24 carat stuff is a little harder to get.

With ICD-24, you want to apply a lot of it on the gpu/cpu. A pea size is good... but for As5 or thinner stuff, rice grain is good.

Also, don't soften the icd24 in hot water like others say. The beauty of the product is the thick material. You want it to spread out between the surfaces in the thick state, so when it cools down after turning off, the tim stays thick... if it's too thin, when it cools, it will introduce bubbles/air.
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post #33 of 43
If price doesn't matter.... don't use TIM!

Go to a lab and get your surfaces grinded down to be optically flat. I'm not sure atomically flat metals is doable?
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post #34 of 43
If your just using it for the CPU, not a GPU the Indigo Xtreme by far. Yes it is expensive and you only get 2 shots at it. I must say it isn't that hard to get it on and done right. READ the instructions first.
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post #35 of 43
the difference in TIMs isnt very big. youre talking a few degrees, although the more expensive ones will tend to last longer if applied correctly. you really cant go wrong with any of the top TIMS. application of the TIM as well as condition of the processor and heatsink block are more important imo.
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post #36 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by homestyle View Post
Make sure you buy IC Diamond 24 and not IC Diamond 7. The 24 carat stuff is a little harder to get.

With ICD-24, you want to apply a lot of it on the gpu/cpu. A pea size is good... but for As5 or thinner stuff, rice grain is good.

Also, don't soften the icd24 in hot water like others say. The beauty of the product is the thick material. You want it to spread out between the surfaces in the thick state, so when it cools down after turning off, the tim stays thick... if it's too thin, when it cools, it will introduce bubbles/air.
????? if you dont "softem" it like the mfg tells you to, there is a good chance you wont get a good spread, its to thick, when you apply heat for the first application, it spreads between the heatsink better. ICD7 and 24 are the same paste, only 24 is refering to the amount of past you get,meaning buy ICD7 if your only going to use it on your CPU and GPU for a few applications. If your going to be reseating everthing you can get your hands on get the ICD24.
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post #37 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post
????? if you dont "softem" it like the mfg tells you to, there is a good chance you wont get a good spread, its to thick, when you apply heat for the first application, it spreads between the heatsink better. ICD7 and 24 are the same paste, only 24 is refering to the amount of past you get,meaning buy ICD7 if your only going to use it on your CPU and GPU for a few applications. If your going to be reseating everthing you can get your hands on get the ICD24.
Nevermind I was wrong.

Sent from my Atrix using Tapatalk.
Edited by Plex - 5/6/11 at 3:15pm
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post #38 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post
????? if you dont "softem" it like the mfg tells you to, there is a good chance you wont get a good spread, its to thick, when you apply heat for the first application, it spreads between the heatsink better. ICD7 and 24 are the same paste, only 24 is refering to the amount of past you get,meaning buy ICD7 if your only going to use it on your CPU and GPU for a few applications. If your going to be reseating everthing you can get your hands on get the ICD24.
Link where they tell you to soften before application?

Sometimes, people repeat things on forums and then the cycle repeats itself much like how people said to spread tim with a credit card for the longest time until now people correctly say let the heatsink do the spreading.

http://innovationcooling.com/applica...structions.htm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Innovation Cooling
...and as such is quite thick. This high viscosity is by design for increased reliability and it is what makes our application procedure different.
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post #39 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
If price doesn't matter.... don't use TIM!

Go to a lab and get your surfaces grinded down to be optically flat. I'm not sure atomically flat metals is doable?
Better yet...pay AMD / Intel a boatload of money to replace the IHS with one that has a huge heatsink on it. No IHS - Heatsink boundary to worry about... For lack of funds I wonder how well dripping solder on the IHS then quickly pressing the heatsink onto it before it cools would work. Probably not well since the 500 F solder would burn out the cpu.
post #40 of 43
Indium based solder melts at a temp much lower. Intel used to use it with their chips.
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