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Green Guck ón tubing walls. What is this???

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Hi all,

I'm all new to watercooling but I love it. Works like a charm. However, now after 3 months of running system, I've noticed that my MasterCleer UV tubing has some green smearing. It can be removed by wiping your finger on the inner tubing.

The liquid I've used is de-ionized battery water.
Additives is anti-corro-fluid (yellowish) and NUKE CU Biocide. (PB Nuke kind of thing)
No UV additives or similar.

My blocks are Nickel covered EK and I use black nickel metal all through.

I've used the system about 1 week before adding the additives above.
Could this be algae?
Fallout from the additives?

I've enclosed a picture.

Please assist as I'm perplexed.
I feel I should change tubes and of course liquid - but the rest of the system is probably coated with this guck. What to do???
post #2 of 8
it's that good old mary jane. jk did you flsuh the rads before you installed the water cooling
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silent night
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post #3 of 8
I'm no watercooling expert, but aren't you supposed to clean/flush your rad and what not after a few months use?
Edited by pjBSOD - 5/5/11 at 1:23pm
post #4 of 8
did you give the rads a good flush before using em?

I would just change the tubing now lol
just a waste of time to clean the tubing IMO
post #5 of 8
why are you running anti corrosives if everything is nickel? Thats only for mixing alum with other metals.

It could be algae, it could be gunk from the additives reacting with each-other or just separating out of the fluid. I don't know anything about car batteries but I do know that de-ionized and distilled can mean different things - it could be mineral deposited from the water.

My suggestion is to clean our your components, get new tubing, and this time fill it with straight DISTILLED and some silver kill coils.
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post #6 of 8
If that's more yellow than green it could be ionized nickel. Distilled not deionized.

edit- Open your block and see what's doin'.
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post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thanks for input.
I'll use Distilled.
No more additives except Biocide? 1-2 drops per litre as recommended?
I read somewhere that anti-corrosives should be used if the nickel is plated and not well done? copper comes out?? mabye totally wrong...

And yes - I did flush my rads - some black particles came out that time - but I'll take it apart and check. A bit worried about taking the EK block apart, or maybe I shouldn't be?

Many thanks for quick input.
post #8 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by robned View Post
Thanks for input.
I'll use Distilled.
No more additives except Biocide? 1-2 drops per litre as recommended?
I read somewhere that anti-corrosives should be used if the nickel is plated and not well done? copper comes out?? mabye totally wrong...

And yes - I did flush my rads - some black particles came out that time - but I'll take it apart and check. A bit worried about taking the EK block apart, or maybe I shouldn't be?

Many thanks for quick input.
the EK blocks are well made. dont worry too much.

You dont need biocide if you use some pure dilver in your loop. it is a natural anti-microbial. PT nuke works too but dropping a silver kill coil in your loop reduces just one more additive. (kill coils are just pre-coiled strips of pure silver. you can buy them off a lot of WC websites. They'll sit right inside your tube before a fitting or inside a res. 1-2 per loop is more than enough... bitspower makes some silver plated fittings as alternative)

the anti-corrosive for plating can be true. It depends on how well the plating was done because as you mentioned, it CAN be poorly done and whatever is behind it might be poking through in places. If the item behind it however is copper, it doesn't really matter. What you need to worry about is if you have a poorly plated component that has aluminium behind the plating.
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Arcane
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