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~1500 Gaming build. Gurus only - Page 5

post #41 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by 45nm View Post
It fit well within the budget. a 2600K Build with those specifications would exceed the budget.
But an i5 2500k costs as much as an x6 but OCs much better and performance blows away an x6.

And this is coming from someone who uses an x6 in his sigrig.
post #42 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
Intel i5 2500k
Gigabyte P67A-UD4
G.Skill 2x4GB DDR3-1600 RipJaws X
2x Sapphire HD6950s in Crossfire
Corsair H70 CPU Cooling
Antec TruePower New 750W (Blue)
OCZ Vertex 2 120GB 2.5" SSD
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB HDDs
Cooler Master HAF 922 (Blue)
Lite-On DVD-RW w/ Lightscribe
Total: $1,440 + Tax and Shipping

I chose the 2500k because it overclocks very well, but wanted to put some more money towards the GPU and SSD instead of upgrading to the i7 (both will impact gaming performance more anyways than HT).

I chose the motherboard because I've good experience with Gigabyte, and this board OCs well and of course comes with USB 3.0 and SATA 6 GB/S, like most modern boards do.

The H70 performs well, and while there are better heatsinks for less money, I decided to go with the H70 in case you're going to ship this computer out. The H70 is much lighter than traditional heatsinks and I think is better suited for the rigors of shipping an entire PC out.

The 8GB of RAM should be more than enough for anything he does, and should perform well with OCing.

The two graphics cards should give you excellent performance in gaming in Crossfire. I'm not sure though if these ones can unlock or not.

The SSD will decrease load times for W7 and his most played games substantially. It's a huge performance boost over a traditional HDD. Unfortunately I couldn't go for the newer/faster Vertex 3 because of budget limitations. The 1TB HDD F3 also performs well and should be lots of room for him to save anything else he may want.

I tried to build as much of a balanced PC as possible, taking into consideration CPU power, GPU power, RAM, and load times. Comes out to $1,440; hopefully shipping will keep it under budget still.
How do you setup the solid state drive with a regular hdd? No raid 0?
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post #43 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Csquared View Post
I've been out of the game for a while now, so i haven't had the chance to play with or overclock any of the new processors yet. I get a call from my buddy in florida and he wants me to build him a gaming computer on ~1500 dollar budget.

What would you guys recommend?
Can I be Your "guru" OMG....
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post #44 of 51
bulldozer wait...
From FX to i7
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From FX to i7
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post #45 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Csquared View Post
How do you setup the solid state drive with a regular hdd? No raid 0?
RAID 0 is something you don't want to do with a HDD and SSD. You'd be bottlenecked by the speed of the HDD, and limited to the capacity of the SSD.

What you'd want to do is use the two drives independently. Make the SSD your main system drive by installing W7 to there. Your friend's most used-programs and games can go in the SSD. In terms of programs, you'd want it so only intensive programs are installed on the SSD, where you'd actually see performance boosts. Photoshop and After Effects for example are great programs to install on the SSD; Microsoft Word is not, since it's so light you're not going to see any real world performance gain. Keeping his most-played games on the SSD will also significantly decrease load times, especially if they're games that take a while to load (like Mass Effect 2)

The HDD can be used as a storage drive for documents, photos, etc. and for light or rarely used programs.

To set all this up, simply plug both the SSD and HDD into your motherboard. Put in the W7 install disk, and select the SSD as the install directory, and voila! The SSD is now your System Drive.

The same thing goes for games too. Just choose whether you want the SSD or HDD in the target directory, and it'll just install to that drive.
Edited by r31ncarnat3d - 5/7/11 at 11:19am
post #46 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
Intel i5 2500k
Gigabyte P67A-UD4
G.Skill 2x4GB DDR3-1600 RipJaws X
2x Sapphire HD6950s in Crossfire
Corsair H70 CPU Cooling
Antec TruePower New 750W (Blue)
OCZ Vertex 2 120GB 2.5" SSD
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB HDDs
Cooler Master HAF 922 (Blue)
Lite-On DVD-RW w/ Lightscribe
Total: $1,440 + Tax and Shipping

I chose the 2500k because it overclocks very well, but wanted to put some more money towards the GPU and SSD instead of upgrading to the i7 (both will impact gaming performance more anyways than HT).

I chose the motherboard because I've good experience with Gigabyte, and this board OCs well and of course comes with USB 3.0 and SATA 6 GB/S, like most modern boards do.

The H70 performs well, and while there are better heatsinks for less money, I decided to go with the H70 in case you're going to ship this computer out. The H70 is much lighter than traditional heatsinks and I think is better suited for the rigors of shipping an entire PC out.

The 8GB of RAM should be more than enough for anything he does, and should perform well with OCing.

The two graphics cards should give you excellent performance in gaming in Crossfire. I'm not sure though if these ones can unlock or not.

The SSD will decrease load times for W7 and his most played games substantially. It's a huge performance boost over a traditional HDD. Unfortunately I couldn't go for the newer/faster Vertex 3 because of budget limitations. The 1TB HDD F3 also performs well and should be lots of room for him to save anything else he may want.

I tried to build as much of a balanced PC as possible, taking into consideration CPU power, GPU power, RAM, and load times. Comes out to $1,440; hopefully shipping will keep it under budget still.
I'd go with this build. Good mobo, good power supply, good CPU, good GPU. Also good "support" parts. You might get a few better parts here and there for the price, but you'd probably have to sacrifice others for them on the budget.


That will outperform just about anything else out there right now.
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post #47 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
RAID 0 is something you don't want to do with a HDD and SSD. You'd be bottlenecked by the speed of the HDD, and limited to the capacity of the SSD.

What you'd want to do is use the two drives independently. Make the SSD your main system drive by installing W7 to there. Your friend's most used-programs and games can go in the SSD. In terms of programs, you'd want it so only intensive programs are installed on the SSD, where you'd actually see performance boosts. Photoshop and After Effects for example are great programs to install on the SSD; Microsoft Word is not, since it's so light you're not going to see any real world performance gain. Keeping his most-played games on the SSD will also significantly decrease load times, especially if they're games that take a while to load (like Mass Effect 2)

The HDD can be used as a storage drive for documents, photos, etc. and for light or rarely used programs.

To set all this up, simply plug both the SSD and HDD into your motherboard. Put in the W7 install disk, and select the SSD as the install directory, and voila! The SSD is now your System Drive.

The same thing goes for games too. Just choose whether you want the SSD or HDD in the target directory, and it'll just install to that drive.
perfect. ill see if i can convince him to let me take it to 4.6ghz+

does tankguys still sell the processors with the "good" stepping?
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post #48 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Csquared View Post
perfect. ill see if i can convince him to let me take it to 4.6ghz+

does tankguys still sell the processors with the "good" stepping?
No clue, but I think they're still on the forums. An email/PM wouldn't hurt
post #49 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
But here's what I don't like:

PSU - 120$ for a multi-rail 850w? Silverstone single-rail 1000w for only 30$ more. Future-proof up the whazoo. Remember, with multi-rail PSUs, you'd have to be extremely lucky to be able to use more than 75% of the total wattage. With single-rail, you get 100% no matter what.
I'm not considered a 'guru' which I feel the OP was stupid for putting in the title anyway. But I wish Phaedrus was here right now to tell you how stupid you sound. Please read this thread: http://www.overclock.net/power-suppl...explained.html

Quote:
Motherboard - For only 40$ more, you can get Gigabyte's UD4. Much higher quality, 12-choke VRM power and SLi/Crossfire.
If you have not used the Extreme4 how can you attest for its quality? Did you even look at the offerings of the Extreme4? It has way more features than the UD4 for less.

It has 2 more SATA III ports, It has 3 PCIE x16 slots (the top 2 run in x16 by themselves or both at x8 and the bottom is just x4, so yes it supports SLI/ Crossfire) as opposed to 2 that the UD4 offers, it comes a front mount or pci slot mount USB 3.0 bracket to actually use the USB 3.0 header on the motherboard, and it has an onboard debug led.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
Future proof for only a bit more. Single-rail >>>> Multi-rail.
Again, read the above mentioned thread to understand how wrong you are. In case you missed it, here it is again: http://www.overclock.net/power-suppl...explained.html

You may now stop calling yourself a guru
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post #50 of 51
i think by saying "i don't think bulldozer will make sandy bridge obsolete" sort of gave it away...
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