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PSU won't power on when connected - Page 3

post #21 of 28
If the board works with the other PSU then the board is okay. The paperclip test doesn't tell you much really, only that the psu will turn on. It doesn't tell you if it has the correct voltages, wattage, or amperage. You can test the volts with a DMM, but the watts and amps would require more expensive equipment. Check the voltages. I wouldn't be surprised if the 12v rails aren't up to snuff.

As for having someone fix it, that would depend on what blew out inside. By the time you paid for shipping both ways it might not be worth having someone try unless you know of someone close by who can.
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post #22 of 28
Thread Starter 
Well, I just tested the volts and they're all spot on... 12.11, 5.2, and 3.1, on all the right wires. I guess it's time to plug it back into the computer and see if this was just some issue that I somehow missed and also somehow fixed as I was connecting the new PSU. I doubt it, but stranger things have been known to happen so it's definitely worth a shot. Will update when I have the results.
post #23 of 28
Any short can cause this,so make sure you check your front panel switches and connections,fan extensions etc.Had the same problem once and it turned out the power switch wire had rubbed on an edge and started shorting out to the case.Unplug all the front panel and use your mobo buttons or short the jumper.
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post #24 of 28
Thread Starter 
Now that you mention it, my Power LED isn't lit, up, and one of the USB front panels seems to be non-working, but of course I only noticed this with the PC powered on via the new PSU... but that does indicate something wonky with the front panel... thanks, that's definitely a help.

PS -- If memory serves, I can bypass using the Power Switch by momentarily touching the + & - header pins on the mobo with a screwdriver, right?
post #25 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclometric View Post
Now that you mention it, my Power LED isn't lit, up, and one of the USB front panels seems to be non-working, but of course I only noticed this with the PC powered on via the new PSU... but that does indicate something wonky with the front panel... thanks, that's definitely a help.

PS -- If memory serves, I can bypass using the Power Switch by momentarily touching the + & - header pins on the mobo with a screwdriver, right?
Yes you can, but if it works correctly with the other PSU the chances of it being something to do with the front panel connections is about 1 in 100,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,00 0,000,000,000
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post #26 of 28
QUOTE FROM CYCLO :
"OK, at this point I replaced all 24 pins on the connector, soldering very carefully. Still no power on. Figuring I may have damaged the wires inside the HX650, I went and bought a GS600. But when I plug the power in, the psu pulsates on and off!! What the $#@%??"

Excuse me, but these indications do not exonerate your motherboard. I appreciate your trouble shooting efforts but when you disconnect the 24 pin ATX and use the jumper method you have removed the mb from the equation. You have not exonerated it as the possible cause. In fact these indications point directly to your mb and components receiving voltages from connector you disconnected.

What an I missing here?
Edited by Albatross1991 - 5/9/11 at 8:36pm
post #27 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Albatross1991 View Post
QUOTE FROM CYCLO :
"OK, at this point I replaced all 24 pins on the connector, soldering very carefully. Still no power on. Figuring I may have damaged the wires inside the HX650, I went and bought a GS600. But when I plug the power in, the psu pulsates on and off!! What the $#@%??"

Excuse me, but these indications do not exonerate your motherboard. I appreciate your trouble shooting efforts but when you diconnect the 24 pin ATX and use the jumper method you have removed the mb from the equation. You have not exonerated it as the possible cause. In fact these indications point directly to your mb and components receiving voltages from connector you disconnected.

What an I missing here?
I quickly found the problem with the pulsing problem -- that was with the new PSU, and it turned out the 24 pin had not been fully seated in the mobo.

**Problem SOLVED!!!***
Now regarding the ongoing problem with the Corsair HX650, although I still can't explain why the system wouldn't get power with just the 24 pin & 8 pin (expecting full power on, but beep post code indicating no GPU / Hard drive) -- at this point, I am able to power on the computer, except with the custom modular SATA cable I had sleeved. I can't say for sure exactly what I did wrong, but I think I flipped the connectors backwards & upside down, thinking that each wire was connecting properly, but I was wrong wrong.

Now with the 24 pin, 8 pin, my sleeved PCIE cable, 1 stock modular 4 pin molex cable, and the remaining stock modular SATA cable, I can finally boot!!!

So I'll have to call Corsair and get a new SATA cable, but for now, problem solved. Phew!

Thank you one & all for the help. Very happy to learn that I did not trash my PSU or any other components in the process!!!
post #28 of 28
You can use this to fix the sata power cable. http://www.playtool.com/pages/psucon...onnectors.html
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442
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Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
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