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Thermoelectric ~ 800D Case Mod (Over 1m tall!) - Page 2

post #11 of 73
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artikbot;13495106 
Amazing I say.


Electroplating what with what?

I hope you aren't copper plating the aluminium... It will make a galvanic cell and the aluminium will corrode (not only corrode, it will make salts that will grow in size over time), making the copper plating gently sweep away from the alu block. In matter of hours.

Aside from that (I want to hope you have that covered), it's gonna be epic dude. Tremendously epic.


Subbed for sure. I've taken chemistry concerning Red-Ox reactions, electrochemistry and so on, so if I can help in anything concerning the platings, give me a call.

aha, so the pretreatment with a cyanide compound really is needed.

Well, that reduces the choices to a piece of plate copper or corrosion inhibitors.

Thx though, you've saved me a lot of time already smile.gif
    
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post #12 of 73
Not to mention you'll be generating a flow of electricity...

As chemistry graduate, and lover of all things beautiful, I am in on this one.
     
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post #13 of 73
http://chemprof.tripod.com/redtable.htm

Check this.


As you can see Al is one of the best materials you can use to make a cheap anode in a cell because of its incredibly high normal oxidization potential. If you add Cu to there you'll essentially have a 1.8V net electric flow in your waterblock, and you have guessed, that's not good by any means frown.gif


Nickel would be a much better material to plate with. It's not a hard reaction, nor Aluminium is a hard material to plate.

That cell would have a potential of barely 0.4V, but without the existance of a saline bridge communicating both, or a ionic fluid where the ion exchange could happen, that potential would diminish until made not significant.

Just make sure the plating is thick enough (don't be impatient while plating) and that the entire piece has been covered (a hole in the plating that would expose Al would be terrible for your block).



Good luck! wink.gif
   
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post #14 of 73
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artikbot;13499518 
http://chemprof.tripod.com/redtable.htm

Check this.


As you can see Al is one of the best materials you can use to make a cheap anode in a cell because of its incredibly high normal oxidization potential. If you add Cu to there you'll essentially have a 1.8V net electric flow in your waterblock, and you have guessed, that's not good by any means frown.gif


Nickel would be a much better material to plate with. It's not a hard reaction, nor Aluminium is a hard material to plate.

That cell would have a potential of barely 0.4V, but without the existance of a saline bridge communicating both, or a ionic fluid where the ion exchange could happen, that potential would diminish until made not significant.

Just make sure the plating is thick enough (don't be impatient while plating) and that the entire piece has been covered (a hole in the plating that would expose Al would be terrible for your block).



Good luck! wink.gif


Fantastic info!

Out of curiosity, what voltage would you recommend for the plating?
    
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post #15 of 73
What you are looking forward regulating is the current that flows through the cathode. The voltage is only used to achieve the desired current on constant power PSUs.

Depending on the surface of your cathode you'll need a different current to be supplied. The kind of treatment is also a factor that determines how much current needs to be used.


This website has a good summary of the surface treatments used to nickel plate.

http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=nickel_electroplating

Choose the treatment that fits you the best. The Watts one might be a good alternative (relatively cheap reactives, needs low current density)


And in case you have any doubt in performing the process, this should help.

http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=electroplating



Also, remember to sand the aluminium block very conciously before plating it, in order to remove any oxide that might be present. Do it while wearing nitrile gloves as the aluminium oxidizes at an incredibly high speed, and touching it with bare hands would accelerate the process, due to sweat.

Then de-grease it, submerge it into the electrolytic solution, and take some photos!! I've never electroplated with nickel, and it's something I'd like to see happen smile.gif


Don't forget to turn on the powah rolleyes.gif



The process is almost the same for most of the coatings wink.gif
   
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post #16 of 73
You have given me alot of ideas just looking at your deviantart profile, insane man keep up the good work!
post #17 of 73
Thread Starter 
Well...


The TEC units have arrived:

the_tecs_have_arrived_by_crabid-d3gqg8a.jpg

Two 270W Qmax peltier coolers from america.

They're not the best, a bit inefficient and certainly nothing compared to the customthermoelectric ones, if data sheets are to be compared.

I plan to play around with these and see what results I get. If I get good results, I may not go for the customthermoelectric versions, but I probably will, they're a lot more efficient than these, so if nothing else, they'll prob save me some electricity and produce better results.

But.... These are under half the cost and a good thing for me to make mistakes with smile.gif
    
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post #18 of 73
Well, we always hope not to make any mistakes, but I guess your idea works too. I am interested to see how your testing works out, I have always been fascinated by peltiers.
     
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post #19 of 73
I certainly love TECs biggrin.gif

Inefficient... Well, TECs by definition are inefficient tongue.gif


Test them!! wheee.gif
   
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post #20 of 73
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitz6804;13575109 
Well, we always hope not to make any mistakes, but I guess your idea works too. I am interested to see how your testing works out, I have always been fascinated by peltiers.

One dead PSU so far smile.gif

Ran well on 5V, hooked it up to 12V and it gave up.

I was expecting that to be honest, funny how it didn't stop me trying ^-^


So far as efficiency goes, that's really an interesting point... it depends how you look at it.


Compared to a fan or liquid cooling system using maybe 15-60W yea it's inefficient.


Compared to a phase change unit... it'll probably use about the same Wattage depending on what temp you want. It wont get the same temperatures ofc, but that doesn't really matter because sandybridge chips don't like being frozen wink.gif
    
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