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Compression Fittings Installation

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I am installing compression fittings for the first time, and am a little hesitant. When I turn the fitting over the tube and tighten it as tight as I can by hand, it doesnt seem to go as far as I would expect. Can anyone upload a picture of a closeup of one of their compression fittings so I can have a good idea what I am aiming for? If it matters, I am using the Bitspower 1/2" ID 3/4" OD fittings, BP-MBCPF-CC5. Also, anyone have any tips on unscrewing the fitting when there is no tubing installed? It seems I have a couple where the top is secured to the base quite well.

Thanks!
post #2 of 12
They don't always screw in all the way with tubing in them. The amount that you can screw them up depends on the tubing and how strong you are. So long as they are tight, the tubing is secure and, most importantly, they pass the leak test you are sorted.

As for removing the tops, if you really can't do it by hand try heating them in some hot water first, then unscrewing by hand. If you still have no luck then wrap them in some cloth to protect them and use pliers / pipe wrenches / whatever tool you have available.

Edit:

Attached is a pic of showing my comp fittings. They are not the same type as yours but the theory is still the same.

Edited by GingerJohn - 5/9/11 at 5:27pm
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post #3 of 12
handtighten them as much as u can

if u go too far, with a wrench or something, u can cut the tubing
    
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post #4 of 12
Yeah, just go as tight as you can with your hands and it will be fine.

Here's a pick of my 1/2'' ID Bitspower fittings


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
I noticed that if I bend the tube too much at the wrong angle, I see it has come a bit off the barb when I unscrew the compression part. Is that common? I am just trying to cover everything before I do this build. I will definately leak test before, but I want to know what to expect before hand. Also, whats the best way to leak test with GPU blocks? Test, then put them on after? Dumb question, I know, but with the CPU block, I have been able to leak test in my case with all components removed, then install everything around the loop without disassembling. Doesnt seem possible with the GPU blocks.
post #6 of 12
did you get the right sizes ?

I usually give mine a few tugs to see if its really secure.
    
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post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
Sizes are definately correct. If I tug at it, I can't get them lose. It just seemed that a tight bend got it to move a bit, I'll have to double check. The tubing seems pretty thick (1/2 ID 3/4 OD) so it doesnt bend as easy as the 7/16" stuff I was using with barbs.
post #8 of 12
Its normal to have them not go all the way down. The hose actually causes some additional space to be added due to the way the compression fittings seal. I think one can rarely go all the way down unless the hose is actually too small!
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post #9 of 12
Yeah some of my tighter bends are like that as well. You can see once I remove the fitting that it has moved a tad bit, but in the grand scheme of things, the majority is still wrapped around the fittings and this is perfectly normal.
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post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by yanks8981 View Post
I noticed that if I bend the tube too much at the wrong angle, I see it has come a bit off the barb when I unscrew the compression part. Is that common?
Yes. The barb part of the comp fitting is really small, so the tube can just pop off if the compression ring is not in place. Make sure that you have a nice straight cut and the tubing goes all the way onto the fitting. If you are still in doubt then have a tug on the tubing once everything is done up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yanks8981 View Post
Also, whats the best way to leak test with GPU blocks? Test, then put them on after? Dumb question, I know, but with the CPU block, I have been able to leak test in my case with all components removed, then install everything around the loop without disassembling. Doesnt seem possible with the GPU blocks.
If it can't be done that way it can't be done. Just make sure that your PSU is out of the way, and only your pump is plugged in, then short the PSU to start (green wire to any black wire on the 24pin mobo connector).

That way even if you do get a leak nothing will be damaged. Dry it up, re-fit and try again.
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