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Clogged water block pictures.

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I tore my loop down to do a revision over the weekend and found something interesting that explains why my loops performance has been going down hill a bit lately.

I opened up my EK Supreme HF full nickle block and found this.






It is a whitish plastic like goo. It was building up in the GPU cooling section of my AquagraFX 470 too.

I think it may be plastisizer that has leached out of my Tygon tubing. The tubing itself has turned yellowish, through the full depth of the walls, and has a gooey residue on the inside walls that looks the same as what is pictured.
I didn't find any residue in the reservoir, or any other part of the system besides the tubing, CPU and GPU water blocks, and the water from the system was clear and free of odors.
Just straight distilled water and a silver kill coil.

My system has been running under 100% CPU and GPU load 24/7 folding for over a month in ambient temperatures of up to 31ºC, and the water temperature gets as high as 39ºC.

I'm guessing the heat is what caused this?

I replaced all of the tubing, mostly with $0.50/ft 1/2idx3/4od clear tubing from Home Depot(shockingly, the tubing is made in the USA), and some leftover Tygon from when I first put the loop together.
The Tygon is much more flexible, but we shall see which one stays clear longer.
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post #2 of 10
were you running straight distilled? cleaned out all your parts before putting the loop together?

REALLY cant see anything in the pics at all btw
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post #3 of 10
Odd that this has happened.. One of the selling points that people mention when they talk about Tygon over Mastercleer or whatever else is that it's "lab grade" and shouldn't seep any plasticizer.... People had said that mastercleer would seep at over 50c, but of course most people's water never gets anywhere near that temperature..

Thanks for sharing the info! I understood why people use those jet plates in the EK blocks, but I have issue with them for blocking flow and apparently being a build-up site for "goo" in the loop.

Is the system really only a month old? (you said you'd been running 24/7 for a month, so I assume it's been up for a month)

Did you use any teflon tape on your fittings?
post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.GumbyM.D. View Post
Thanks for sharing the info! I understood why people use those jet plates in the EK blocks, but I have issue with them for blocking flow and apparently being a build-up site for "goo" in the loop.

Is the system really only a month old? (you said you'd been running 24/7 for a month, so I assume it's been up for a month)

Did you use any teflon tape on your fittings?
The block really wouldn't work very well without the jet plates. The one I'm using is the one that pretty much everyone who tested them found gives the best thermal performance.
I'm running two Swiftech MCP35x pumps in a series redundant configuration, so I've got plenty of head pressure available, even with them capped at 50%. That is probably why my loop was still working, even with this mess clogging the block, lol.

The loop is about 2.5 months old, but it is just the last 5 weeks that it has been running under full load 24/7, and just the past 2-3 weeks that the ambient temperatures started getting so high in the afternoon.

I used teflon tape, but it was just a single wrap of the thick type for pipe threads. The tap was trimmed so it was only on the threads, none of it got into the loop.

I too find it odd that the Tygon tubing broke down like it did.
I cut a section open and cleaned the inside thoroughly, even cut slivers off the outer wall. The yellowing of the tubing is through the full thickness of the walls, not just the inner surface.
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post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post
were you running straight distilled? cleaned out all your parts before putting the loop together?
Yeap, straight distilled with a silver coil.
All parts cleaned with boiling water and vinegar, then flushed out with the best residueless solvent ever in the history of mankind, R-11(I do HVAC work and still have a significant quantity left from before it was banned).
All parts then flushed with distilled water before putting the loop together.
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post #6 of 10
my tygon tubing turned colors over time too. i dissassembled the loop to find a residue on the inside wall of the tubing. Have no idea what it was.
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post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AliceInChains View Post
my tygon tubing turned colors over time too. i dissassembled the loop to find a residue on the inside wall of the tubing. Have no idea what it was.
Did you open up your water blocks?
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post #8 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caleal View Post
Did you open up your water blocks?
no. Im adding a couple gpu blocks in the near future, I will open it then and clean it if need be.

but, I did flush all my parts with boiling distilled water. Dont know where the residue came from.
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post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WCGuru View Post
Silver coil + petras PT nuke should do the trick!, or ditch the silver coil and use real sterling silver
This isn't from something growing in the loop, there is a problem with the tubing itself.

BTW, the silver kill coil is .999% pure silver, "real sterling silver" is an alloy of about 92.5% silver + other metals, usually copper.
The kill coil is better for the intended purpose.
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post #10 of 10
My tubes are not clouding up, but I did happen to have this very same issue with my EK block last night. My cpu block was clogged with a fine, gooey, plastic like dust. I am using primochill tubes.
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