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post #11 of 25
I'll give a vote to Yate mediums. I'm running 3 on a 360 rad and they move heaps of air through my rad and do it quietly. Probably couldn't even hear them running with both doors on. Even with an open case, it's a nice gentle hum.

You might consider a 140 rad instead of 120 (assuming the HAF X has a 140 back fan like my 932). A little more rad space never hurts, especially for the silent route.
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post #12 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by champyg View Post
I'll give a vote to Yate mediums. I'm running 3 on a 360 rad and they move heaps of air through my rad and do it quietly. Probably couldn't even hear them running with both doors on. Even with an open case, it's a nice gentle hum.

You might consider a 140 rad instead of 120 (assuming the HAF X has a 140 back fan like my 932). A little more rad space never hurts, especially for the silent route.
Definitely a good idea for the 140 radiator, except I think the reason it doesn't usually pan out with HAF-X builds is because the top radiator slings down pretty close to that 140mm fan if you put the inlet/outlet on the back of the case to save half of a 5.25" bay (I've got a fan controller in there that is a tight fit as is with the height of the GTX360).
post #13 of 25
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post #14 of 25
I don't see any fittings (I'm assuming barbs as you added clamps). You will need 10 1/2" barbs and 10 3/4" clamps, or 10 1/2"*3/4" compression fittings:

Pump - res combo - 2
SR1 360 - 2
SR1 140 - 2
CPU block - 2
EK-FC link - 2

For the clamps, the ones you have chosen are fine, and look pretty cool, but you can get some of these for a lot less. They will do the same thing.

You will also need a 140mm fan for the SR1 140, you can get a 140mm Yate Loon to match your other ones.

Otherwise it looks good.
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post #15 of 25
Thread Starter 
Added the barbs and placed the order thanks for the assistance.
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post #16 of 25
You are welcome. Any more questions and you know where we are.

Have fun with it, take your time and post pics of the build.
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post #17 of 25
I've been in class all morning, so I just now got to see your order. You probably should have gone with a serial dual bridge. Maybe a parallel will work fine for your setup, but I know that serial is almost always recommended for simple loops.
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post #18 of 25
Thread Starter 
Looking at it looks like I need link parts for that as well. It would probably be easier if I went with something like this right VID connector.
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post #19 of 25
Scythe for sure. I didn't go for the quiet ones(3k rpm), but I took advice from a fellow OCN'er and put them on a fan controller. It's like central air for LC. Run them according to ambient temps. I would swear the fans and controller knocked off 10c+ for me. Hope this helps.
post #20 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slain View Post
Looking at it looks like I need link parts for that as well. It would probably be easier if I went with something like this right VID connector.

Assuming you have your two cards populating the two x16 slots (tan ones), yes that is the part you would need I'm pretty sure. I've never done dual GPU, though so don't take that as gold.
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