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post #3341 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables;14760106 
Anyway, my post above is not why I came to this club thread today. About an hour ago, the following happened which was very new to me. So, I'm hoping it has happened to someone else because I would love to learn why it happened and possibly how to prevent it from happening again.
  1. I was watching a YouTube video
  2. The video reached its end
  3. So I got up to go to the bathroom
  4. I came back to find that the computer froze (for the first time ever)
  5. I pressed the Reset button on my case
  6. There was no POST at all (the monitor didn't even turn back on)
  7. I pressed Reset again
  8. Still no POST
  9. I turned the system off
  10. I turned the PSU off
  11. I pressed the power button on my case a few times to discharge the capacitors
  12. Tried again
  13. Still no POST
  14. I pressed the Clr CMOS button (I held it down)
  15. The behavior of the startup attempt was different this time, but still no POST (so, the CMOS was indeed cleared which I later confirmed at the end of this whole thing)
  16. I finally noticed that the boot device and VGA LEDs were lit up on the motherboard
  17. I replaced my 580 with my 470
  18. My system worked just fine, but I had to install the driver on top of itself.
  19. I shut down
  20. I put the 580 back in
  21. Now my system is back to normal with my 580 in it and it all works fine.


So after all of that, I discovered that all I had to do was put my 470 in, turn the system on, get a successful boot, shut down, and put the 580 back in.

I would love to hear from someone who has experienced this and knows what happened and how to prevent it from happening again. redface.gif

This could have been a hardware problem. A contact connection in the slot could have been less conductive cause of dust or dirt on the card, perhaps sweat. If this has been the case, It could be, that it became worse through thermal expansion of the card under load, so that the piece of dirt or whatever got into the right position to break the connection. If only 1 pin is disconnected, this can cause a freeze.

When I first got my P8Z68 Deluxe, I had a broken PIN in my PCIEx16 Slot #2. There was no POST when I put a card in this one and left Slot #1 empty, which is possible on my replaced (RMA) specimen.

Before RMA I fixed the PIN myself provisionally, bending it into right position with a knife. First everything ran well, but then it apparently lost contact and I had a freeze and It did not post afterwards until i bent the pin back again.

The sad thing about this is, that it took me 3 days of afterwork freetime to discover the problem, that kept my SLI from running. mad.gif

Unfortunately from my vendor I only got back a functional board (and a G19 Keyboard, CM 200mm fan, which were broken, too) , not my life biggrin.gif
Edited by slimex - 8/31/11 at 1:38am
     
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post #3342 of 9343
Hey guys i just build my computer it has a asus p8z68-v pro in it and it seems it auto overclocked my cpu i5-2500k to 4.3 ghz now i know it has an option to automatically find the best overclock but is that the switch on the mobo or is there also such a setting in the bios? Because currently i don't really need this overclock so i want to remove it.

Greetings,
Stuuut
    
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post #3343 of 9343
Has anybody written up an overclocking guide for Z68 yet? I have my sig rig running at stock. Would like to have a good OC template to use as a starting point. Does Z68 work pretty much the same as P67? Could I just use somebody's P67 overclock as a starting point?
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post #3344 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuuut View Post
Hey guys i just build my computer it has a asus p8z68-v pro in it and it seems it auto overclocked my cpu i5-2500k to 4.3 ghz now i know it has an option to automatically find the best overclock but is that the switch on the mobo or is there also such a setting in the bios? Because currently i don't really need this overclock so i want to remove it.

Greetings,
Stuuut
Hey, I think you should switch off the TPU switch on your board, which is responsible for the auto-overclock. You find it right of the ram, above the main power connector.
Could be that there is auto overclocking applied, if you selected the "ASUS Optimal" profile in Standard View of the BIOS. Make sure that "Normal Mode" is enabled, if you don't want to overclock. If this does not help, you could load optimal defaults in advanced mode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucas Lamer View Post
Has anybody written up an overclocking guide for Z68 yet? I have my sig rig running at stock. Would like to have a good OC template to use as a starting point. Does Z68 work pretty much the same as P67? Could I just use somebody's P67 overclock as a starting point?
The most I've read till now confirms, that overclocking on P67 and Z68 is pretty similar. Bios config options are almost the same. If you are looking for a starting point for overclocking, you should try to use TwoCables' template, which you can find in one of the first posts of this club.
     
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post #3345 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimex View Post
Hey, I think you should switch off the TPU switch on your board, which is responsible for the auto-overclock. You find it right of the ram, above the main power connector.
Could be that there is auto overclocking applied, if you selected the "ASUS Optimal" profile in Standard View of the BIOS. Make sure that "Normal Mode" is enabled, if you don't want to overclock. If this does not help, you could load optimal defaults in advanced mode.
Hey thnx for the answer first time i've build a system of my own

Anyways 1 more question its nothing to do with my mobo but anyways
With an overclock to 4.3 ghz i'm getting temps of 59c thoes are pretty decent temps right? My vcore is 1.3511 somebody told me thats pretty high and generates alot of heat, is that true?
    
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post #3346 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by TFL Replica View Post
Which video card driver version did the above occur on?
It is the modified Quadro driver 275.36, but this does not feel driver-related to me. I've had absolutely zero computer problems since July 11th (the day I upgraded to Sandy Bridge), and I've had 275.36 ever since then.

I'm using 275.36 because I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gessay View Post
I'm gonna guess that the freeze followed by the improper windows shutdown probably corrupted your video drivers and when you put in the 470 it loaded with the basic windows drivers. The real question is why did your computer freeze when watching youtube? try updating flash? running a virus scanner? I honestly wouldn't worry about it if it's the first time ever freezing.
It did not freeze while watching a YouTube video. Like I said, I was watching a video, the video reached its end, I got up to go to the bathroom, I came back, and that is when I discovered my system locked up. When I got up to go to the bathroom, my system was not locked up. I moved the mouse a tiny bit to watch the next video but then decided that I would just go relieve myself instead.

So, the reason why I got up to go to the bathroom is that the video ended. My system did not freeze during the video, nor did it freeze as a result of the video ending. It locked up at some point after I walked away.

Regarding updating Flash: I don't need to because it is always up to date thanks to Firefox.


Quote:
Originally Posted by slimex View Post
This could have been a hardware problem. A contact connection in the slot could have been less conductive cause of dust or dirt on the card, perhaps sweat. If this has been the case, It could be, that it became worse through thermal expansion of the card under load, so that the piece of dirt or whatever got into the right position to break the connection. If only 1 pin is disconnected, this can cause a freeze.

When I first got my P8Z68 Deluxe, I had a broken PIN in my PCIEx16 Slot #2. There was no POST when I put a card in this one and left Slot #1 empty, which is possible on my replaced (RMA) specimen.

Before RMA I fixed the PIN myself provisionally, bending it into right position with a knife. First everything ran well, but then it apparently lost contact and I had a freeze and It did not post afterwards until i bent the pin back again.

The sad thing about this is, that it took me 3 days of afterwork freetime to discover the problem, that kept my SLI from running.

Unfortunately from my vendor I only got back a functional board (and a G19 Keyboard, CM 200mm fan, which were broken, too) , not my life
This makes the most sense to me. I mean, it makes me wonder now if all I really had to do was reseat my 580.
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post #3347 of 9343
Add me - I just built my first rig and own an ASUS P8P67 Pro --- loove it!
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post #3348 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuuut View Post
Hey thnx for the answer first time i've build a system of my own

Anyways 1 more question its nothing to do with my mobo but anyways
With an overclock to 4.3 ghz i'm getting temps of 59c thoes are pretty decent temps right? My vcore is 1.3511 somebody told me thats pretty high and generates alot of heat, is that true?
I am running at 1,392 (set through offset voltage +0,02) and my highest core temp (read from realtemp) is 80°C (I think it was a hot summer day with "cool" indoor temp of 25°C, could be lower if i test again with 20°C).
It depends on which temperature you mean. AI Suite in newest version for example shows the so called Tcase temperature, which may not exceed 72,6°C according to the intel product page. the tcase temperature is about 10°C lower than the core temps. I think you should monitor core temps and values about 75°C to 82°C (highest ever reached) during prime are ok, but opinions differ on that. Why I do not try to keep them lower ? It's because I want my system to be silent.
During gaming (for example witcher 2, crysis 2) core temps never exceed 63°C on my system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
This makes the most sense to me. I mean, it makes me wonder now if all I really had to do was reseat my 580.
You would laugh. Years ago I had a K7 System (Athlon XP 3200+, ASUS board, ATI Radeon 9700Pro with 128MB). One day the system hang multiple times while benchmarking using 3Dmark05. The next day it did no more POST. I removed CPU, Graphics Card and RAM from the board, cleaned all contact surfaces using lighter fuel and put them back onto the board. After this the system ran until I got it replaced (for about 1 additional year, would have ran much longer i suppose).
     
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post #3349 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimex View Post
I am running at 1,392 (set through offset voltage +0,02) and my highest core temp (read from realtemp) is 80°C (I think it was a hot summer day with "cool" indoor temp of 25°C, could be lower if i test again with 20°C).
It depends on which temperature you mean. AI Suite in newest version for example shows the so called Tcase temperature, which may not exceed 72,6°C according to the intel product page. the tcase temperature is about 10°C lower than the core temps. I think you should monitor core temps and values about 75°C to 82°C (highest ever reached) during prime are ok, but opinions differ on that. Why I do not try to keep them lower ? It's because I want my system to be silent.
During gaming (for example witcher 2, crysis 2) core temps never exceed 63°C on my system.
Thoes are from Coretemp temperatures during Prime95 so i guess i'm alright.
I also played The Witcher 2 yesterday with high settings and temps didn't go above mid 40's

Anyways can i join the club??
    
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post #3350 of 9343
I'm glad to announce that my first build is complete, up and working like a charm. Specs in sig. )
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