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post #5871 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller1 View Post

I just did that for my 6970. My receipt went missing micro centers system.. I used my old 5870s vrm5 heat-sink which I had to dremel out a decent chunk of, and the spitfire which I didn't have to modify.
I had to modify the vrm5 to get it to be able to sit down all the way. It was hitting the mosfets. It's running cooler then ever without any fans. I put one big fan on them any way though biggrin.gif.

I was given another option that would save the RAM and that was to consider getting a Corsair H60. Considering I am only planning to do mild to moderate Overclocking this seems like the less inconvenient option, as I'd only have to replace one part rather than two... Otherwise I'd have gone with the just return it option as it would not have been too big a deal...tongue.gif
post #5872 of 9343
if am right it's cpu.
try googling am sure you find your answer
post #5873 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by chillidog View Post

if am right it's cpu.
try googling am sure you find your answer

Yes, am looking for a solution that allows me to cool my CPU, but have the issue that I took the Corsair Blue high fins, without realising that that choice was going to severely limit my CPU cooling options. smile.gif
post #5874 of 9343
Hi all,

my p8z68-v gen3 should be home in a few days, will go with the rig in my signature drunken.gif

I've seen Asus provides an almighty load of drivers and tools on their web site. I'd like to know:

- What MUST be installed: necessary drivers (eventually more up to date with respect to the ones in the box and/or on the asus web site)

- What can be skipped if not necessary ? e.g. JMicron SATA3 drivers ? Lucid Virtu (I don't care about being able to use both my 6850 and the iternal graphics, unless you convince me it's good to do so.

- What MUST be skipped smile.gif I've heard the AI Suite is a bit of bloatware, but maybe some individual components are still useful. Which ones ?

Thanks !

MaX.
Edited by HornetMaX - 1/16/12 at 1:53am
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post #5875 of 9343
Skip the AI Suite at least..
Otherwise it depends.

Personally I don't have any USB3 devices, so I don't have those. Nor do I use the internal GPU, so I've skipped those as well.
Intel Smart Respons if you're not using it, Realtek-drivers if you have a network-card or a sound-card.

Could probably drop the JMicron drivers as well if you're going to use the marvell-ports.
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post #5876 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathelm View Post

I think their suppose to be #6-32 x 1.25 ( 1.25 depending on how thick your fan is). But push pull is the way to go. I have mine setup as sort of a push pull pull though. Years ago I was oppcessed with getting the PC heat out of the room, so with there being an unfinished stair well to the basement on the other side of the wall behind my desk, I ran a 4" dryer vent hose into the wall. I attach it to the rear of the PC (H60 ) via a modified exhaust vent housing from Lowes.
220 With the flaps removed of course. Ran a 12v molex plug from the PC to a fan at the exhaust end ( which runs full speed all the time because I can't hear it). Volia... push pull-pull.....thumb.gif
I even have a second 4" hose run from the exhaust end back down (in the wall) to my feet under my desk so that during the winter (now) the hotter my PC gets, the toastier my feet get....biggrin.gif

That's what I ended up using, a 6x32 screw. Not the same or the thread is different. They fit, but not as good as they should which leads me to believe they maybe a metric screw. I'm going to email the company and find out what size they should be. With my luck the thread in the radiator is messed up now and I'll have to take it all apart and re-tap the four holes. Since I expect a build up of dirt over time, this summer maybe a good time for me to tear it down and do all this (and clean it all out). Meanwhile it's working like a champ and I'm glad I went with a 'higher priced' fan for the push/pull. It's a Aerocool Shark 15-blade with a 'fluid dynamic bearing' and they give you a voltage reduction cable with it in case the 12v runs it too fast. The reduction cable cuts it down to 7 volts I believe, nice if you don't need all the air flow. So now I know that a $15 fan can be better than the $3 or $4 dollar fans...lol...

Are you serious? You actually vented the heat outside? I think the feet warmer is a better option, or if you have a cat, they'd love it in the winter. (I have a Modern Siamese cat that loves to hug the heat registers in the winter...) Or one could make a small oven warmer and you could keep biscuits in there...lol...
Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller1 View Post

I've pondered doing this my self but never have. I commend you sir for your hard work thumb.gif
@ Jae:
I'm using xmp fine. The issue is, which I've noticed this my self or faced this issue my self rather. If you switch cpus or memory and keep a overclock profile it will screw everything up when you use that said profile.. I had to reset my BIOS to get my memory stable after inadvertently, doing this my self..
I went ahead and cleared all the old profiles out by saving a default one to all of them so it wouldn't try loading any settings it self either if I failed an overclock..
I then set my memory to 1066 and tested it stable then cranked it right back up to 1950 and tested it again, stable, haven't looked back or had any more issues since.
I'm sitting at 4.9GHz or 47 x 104.6, 1.48v~.

Great, I had all the parameters set and was about to save & reboot when I said to myself, crap I haven't done a backup yet today so I skipped the save and didn't try it. I will now (and do a backup first) and see what happens, just didn't want to lose anything. An odd thing was when I finally got the x16 slot working it seemed to have reset more than the machine and the SSD cache had to build up again for booting & shutdown. But it only took about 4 reboots and it was back to its old speedy self again. I guess stranger things have happened. Thanks, will do and let you know if it works (it should).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano12345 View Post

Yeah, there was a faulty batch that went out, mine is one of those. Happens with every company so I'm not too bothered to be honest. Their customer service has been excellent in dealing with it

You're like me, if there's a bad batch or something that'll go wrong it usually happens to me or I get the bad bunch of parts.....sigh....It is good to hear Corsairs customer service is on the ball. I like them and the stuff they have and when I hear they care about their customers it makes me one for life.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercyflush64 View Post

You can always use a dremel tool to either cut or grind away a bit off of the heat spreaders so they will fit if returning them is not an option you want to take.

Good call, I was going to suggest that myself. I don't know what I'd do without my Dremel (and the million different add-on's and parts I have for it). Makes the hardest job go easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimmetje View Post

Yes, am looking for a solution that allows me to cool my CPU, but have the issue that I took the Corsair Blue high fins, without realising that that choice was going to severely limit my CPU cooling options. smile.gif

I'll vouch for the H60 (or any of Corsairs coolers, memory, etc, etc.) Good quality. I have read some where or seen that they (or some other manufacture) has a water cooler for memory. (Or maybe in the near future if not out already.) It's the same princable as the CPU water coolers. They already have a graphics card cooler out so it just makes sense to follow with a memory stick cooler. Might solve the problem with out having to use the Dremel.
post #5877 of 9343
Hey guys, just finished my build with the P8z68, but I have a few questions. I'm using an SSD, and it sometimes takes a really really long time to clear the splash screen. We are talking minutes. Also right now the board is throwing the code 30, and randomly wakes it self up from sleep. Any ideas?

Also on bootup it flashes through a bunch of codes on the Debug. Then it settles on AA. is this normal?
Edited by WhatIsHip - 1/16/12 at 2:16pm
post #5878 of 9343
Yes, it should go through a number of codes on boot before it settles at AA, however, it should not act like you're describing.

Mind giving us the whole list of components?

Someone please correct me here though, the sleep-function is known to be somewhat buggy on Sandy Bridge(?)/this generation in general.
- Personally I can't comment on that, as I don't use the sleep function, and hardly ever shut my PC down.
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post #5879 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPilotJAE View Post

That's what I ended up using, a 6x32 screw. Not the same or the thread is different. They fit, but not as good as they should which leads me to believe they maybe a metric screw. I'm going to email the company and find out what size they should be. With my luck the thread in the radiator is messed up now and I'll have to take it all apart and re-tap the four holes. Since I expect a build up of dirt over time, this summer maybe a good time for me to tear it down and do all this (and clean it all out). Meanwhile it's working like a champ and I'm glad I went with a 'higher priced' fan for the push/pull. It's a Aerocool Shark 15-blade with a 'fluid dynamic bearing' and they give you a voltage reduction cable with it in case the 12v runs it too fast. The reduction cable cuts it down to 7 volts I believe, nice if you don't need all the air flow. So now I know that a $15 fan can be better than the $3 or $4 dollar fans...lol...

I'm pretty sure #6x32 are right, ( I took the ones that came with it to the hardware store) they aren't as tight as the ones that came with it, but they tighten down so... I've been looking for the little packs they came in to make sure, but can't seem to find them. Oh well, let us know what Corsair says...
btw, I actually used ones that were 1.5" long because that's what I had. Point is there are no tubes/fins between the 2 sides.
I used a 4 pin (PWM) Y cable spliter from newegg to power the 2 fans. Also Here's a good article on making your own "speed reducer" cable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPilotJAE View Post

Are you serious? You actually vented the heat outside? I think the feet warmer is a better option, or if you have a cat, they'd love it in the winter. (I have a Modern Siamese cat that loves to hug the heat registers in the winter...) Or one could make a small oven warmer and you could keep biscuits in there...lol...

My office is on the south side of the house, so heat is an issue during the summer, and it makes a huge diff in both room and cpu temp....

Yea, I've been looking for one a those easy-bake oven cookbooks.... But with this 3650 I idle at about 29c (86) so not hot enough for cooking. Maybe when I get around to this new board and a I7 at say 5Ghz.....Then it'll be brownie time....thumb.gif

EDIT:

Don't know if they make a "old man" kit for you or not... will keep looking though, how much time do I have?....lol
369
Edited by mathelm - 1/16/12 at 4:35pm
post #5880 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPilotJAE View Post

That's what I ended up using, a 6x32 screw. Not the same or the thread is different. They fit, but not as good as they should which leads me to believe they maybe a metric screw. I'm going to email the company and find out what size they should be. With my luck the thread in the radiator is messed up now and I'll have to take it all apart and re-tap the four holes.

You'll probably find this a nit-picky point, but it is not a 6x32 screw, but a 6-32 screw. 6 gauge and 32 threads per inch. Not to be confused with 6/32" either.
Quote:
The 6-32 is a UTS screw with a major thread diameter of 0.1380 inches and a tpi (threads per inch, imperial threads) of 32 tpi. It is by far the most common screw found inside computer cases and commonly appears in lengths of 0.15 and 0.25 in. Nearly every brand new computer case comes with a bag of these. They are used:

To fasten a power supply to the case
To fasten a hard disk drive to the case
To hold an expansion card in place by its metal slot cover
To fasten case components to one another, like fans onto radiators.
Usually, a 6-32 screw holds the main cover on the case. When it's not a 6-32, a larger 8-32 is the most likely alternative.

Of all the screws provided by computer case manufacturers, the 6-32 screw typically has the coarsest threading. They are almost always provided with a Phillips drive, accepting a #2 size tip (the larger of the two most common Phillips screwdriver tips). While a #1 size tip will drive the screw, it will be awkward to use and increases the risk of cam-out and damage to the screw head. They are less frequently provided with a hex head, even less with a pan head - a low disk with a chamfered outer edge. Because they are used in places where easy removal and replacement may be desirable (such as on the side panels of the PC case), they are frequently available as thumbscrews with oversized friction-gripped heads that can be removed with one's fingers rather than with tools.

6-32 screws will fit into holes threaded for M3 screws (the second most common type of screw in PCs), but this will damage the finer M3 threading. Also, when 6-32 screws are screwed into brass M3-threaded motherboard standoffs, the threads tend to become "locked", and the entire motherboard must be removed to separate them. The same is true if a M3 is screwed into a 6-32 threaded hole.
Quote:
The M3 screw is the second most common screw found in PCs. This is a metric screw, and just about every case manufacturer provides a package of M3 screws as well as 6-32's. Specifically, the screw type is M3-0.50, meaning the threads of the screws are 0.50 millimetres apart. These screws, like the 6-32 screws, also typically accept a #2 size Phillips screwdriver tip.

M3 screws are used for fastening optical disc drives and floppy drives. They will fit in 6-32-threaded holes, but their narrower diameter and finer thread pitch causes them to seat only loosely in the hole.

M3 screws are also the most common screw used to secure a motherboard to motherboard standoffs.

Of all the screws provided with PCs, M3s are usually identified by them having the finest thread pitch of all the screws provided.

6-32 screws will strip the threads of M3-threaded holes. When the M3 hole is drilled into sheet metal (as on floppy and optical disc drives), a 6-32 screw that damages the threading will typically stay in the hole and can be removed fairly easily. When the M3 threading is into solid metal (such as a motherboard standoff), a 6-32 screw will get stuck before it can be screwed in all the way.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_case_screws
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