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post #7131 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercyflush64 View Post

You may not think so but if you even have stock settings from the bios the turbo is automatically turned on, so welcome to being an overclocker!

I'm an OC'er for sure now...managed to get my i7-2600 to 4.12 GHz so far using this motherboard...will push it even further soon! biggrin.gif

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2380118 proof.gif
post #7132 of 9343
My old P4 machine was always at 600 MHz OC with stock voltage and stock cooler, from 2.4 to 3.0. biggrin.gif
Push that 2600 and see if you can get 1 GHz OC, would be as a (safe) achievement and would also grant you better knowledge of overclocking. wink.gif
Edited by Karlz3r - 5/23/12 at 4:38pm
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post #7133 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlz3r View Post

Hello, Peter, welcome to the forums!
There are a couple of things in your post that caught my attention:
Phase Control = Optimized
You mentioned that it's not important for you to save power. Try changing this to Extreme, that could possibly help with the system stability.
CPU Voltage = Offset Mode
Check how much VCORE is CPU-Z showing for your CPU inside of Windows.
If you do the Prime95 test and one of the cores is falling far behind or failing, you might want to up the voltage.
If you are not saving power, you could change the VCORE adjusting to manual, so you could use your preferred voltage.
Make sure to adjust the VCORE accordingly after checking how much the motherboard is recommending for the current overclock (just make the needed adjustments later).
Dram Voltage = 1.55 <---is this enough for 16gigs of ram? its rated at 1.5v
If all 4 of the sticks are rated at 1.5, better run them at 1.5VDIMM. It's also better for Sandy Bridge (2600K) if you don't exceed 1.5VDIMM for 24/7 use.
It might not matter in the beginning if you exceed 1.5, but it probably will in the end. The memory controller is inside the CPU and according to common beliefs, over 1.5 stresses the CPU.
If you aren't planning to overclock your memory, increasing VDIMM is not necessary.

I read your comments and appreciate it very much thank you Karl. If I set a manual Vcore to 1.32 should I then disable LLC since I would have a constant voltage? I feel like there is some key element that I am not understanding. If I remember correctly when I was experimenting with manual vcore even though I had set a manual Vcore of 1.315 it was at 1.34 until it was under load, once under 100% load it then would drop the Vcore to about 1.31-1.335 .. why does it supply higher voltage under less stress? I thought the more processes the CPU has to work would equal more power? It confuses me that the power being supplied actually decreases when it does more work.
post #7134 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by WX4SNO View Post

I'm an OC'er for sure now...managed to get my i7-2600 to 4.12 GHz so far using this motherboard...will push it even further soon! biggrin.gif
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2380118 proof.gif

You should be able to do much more than that. My 2500k gets 4.3ghz with basic bios settings and nothing altered by me.
post #7135 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by learningisfun View Post

I read your comments and appreciate it very much thank you Karl. If I set a manual Vcore to 1.32 should I then disable LLC since I would have a constant voltage? I feel like there is some key element that I am not understanding. If I remember correctly when I was experimenting with manual vcore even though I had set a manual Vcore of 1.315 it was at 1.34 until it was under load, once under 100% load it then would drop the Vcore to about 1.31-1.335 .. why does it supply higher voltage under less stress? I thought the more processes the CPU has to work would equal more power? It confuses me that the power being supplied actually decreases when it does more work.

Setting manually does not mean you wont need LLC. Load brings voltage drop/droop...more resistance I think, but someone more electron educated could tell you better.
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post #7136 of 9343
Hey guys, After months of flawless performance my ASUS P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 has failed me I think. Will not turn on, Red VGA light lights up solid on boot-up. I have changed the GPU, tried my onbaord IGU, moved GPU's to different slot, single stick of RAM, even tried the Mem-OK! button, re-seated the CPU and of course reset the CMOS(With the jumper method outlined in the user manual, and the "old fashion way").

I have tested the GPU, RAM, and PSU in my back up rig, all worked perfect. I'm almost certein that my mobo's BIOS corrupted, or the PCI slot's broke. I also have a mobo speaker but it isn't sounding any noise's or anything. The memory and CPU lights on the board light up for a second and then shut off as normal, hangs on the VGA light, its not blinking just says lit.

I have seared google about the "Red VGA light of doom" and have exhausted every suggestion in the threads that worked for some of the other people to no avail. Just thought I would ask the comunity if they have anything to add before I make an attempt to RMA my board... With my experiance with ASUS RMA I'm better off tossing this on in the trash can and buying an entire board new... but my OS is OEM and locked to the silly z68... not happy about this at all. Anyway thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.
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post #7137 of 9343
Khaotic, did you also have the PCI-E lane overclocked or did you have it at 100 MHz?
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post #7138 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlz3r View Post

Khaotic, did you also have the PCI-E lane overclocked or did you have it at 100 MHz?

The only overclock's on the system where CPU and GPU.


I did find a way to get it to POST and load windows! But in order to do this I have to turn it on and let is do its power on self test. All on board LED's act as they should until its time for the VGA self test light. It stays solid for about 5 min then all the sudden the normal chirp from the mobo speaker sounds and it loads the BIOS, followed by windows.

The above is the same result for my 6950 (locked or unlocked, stock or overclocked), 460GTX (both overclocked and stock) and my IGPU (only stock never bothered with OC'ing it).

So far I can't even find anything in the net about what this might mean. Thanks.
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post #7139 of 9343
I actually had a somewhat similar issue a couple days ago.

When I powered on my PC, it was terribly slow and basically froze in the beginning and it didn't enter to the OS.
I also noticed that a red LED was on the motherboard. I looked closely and it turned out to be HDD led.

I decided to power off my PC, pull the cable out and power on the PC again to release the power in the PSU.

I removed the CMOS battery and let the BIOS reset. Checked the HDD cables, disconnected and reconnected them.

After that everything was totally fine again, like nothing ever happened.

Hopefully you got some ideas form this post, but there are not that many logical solutions left, perhaps RMA the board?
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post #7140 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlz3r View Post

Khaotic, did you also have the PCI-E lane overclocked or did you have it at 100 MHz?

The only overclock's on the system where CPU and GPU.


I did find a way to get it to POST and load windows! But in order to do this I have to turn it on and let is do its power on self test. All on board LED's act as they should until its time for the VGA self test light. It stays solid for about 5 min then all the sudden the normal chirp from the mobo speaker sounds and it loads the BIOS, followed by windows.

The above is the same result for my 6950 (locked or unlocked, stock or overclocked), 460GTX (both overclocked and stock) and my IGPU (only stock never bothered with OC'ing it).

So far I can't even find anything in the net about what this might mean. Thanks.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlz3r View Post

I actually had a somewhat similar issue a couple days ago.

When I powered on my PC, it was terribly slow and basically froze in the beginning and it didn't enter to the OS.
I also noticed that a red LED was on the motherboard. I looked closely and it turned out to be HDD led.

I decided to power off my PC, pull the cable out and power on the PC again to release the power in the PSU.

I removed the CMOS battery and let the BIOS reset. Checked the HDD cables, disconnected and reconnected them.

After that everything was totally fine again, like nothing ever happened.

Hopefully you got some ideas form this post, but there are not that many logical solutions left, perhaps RMA the board?


Actually there are a few things you can do to speed boot before considering an RMA.

  1. Enable Advanced Mode for bios
  2. Avoid & Disable Jmicron ports
  3. Avoid & Disable Marvel Ports
  4. If you have and don't use other board features disable them as well ie: 1394
  5. Enable Power on by PCIE in bios
  6. reduce POST check time to 2 sec
  7. disable fully screen logo show
  8. make sure no usb 2.0 devices are plugged into 3.0 ports
  9. make sure your boot drive is first in the boot order before you do the next one and while you there disable all other boot devices.
  10. last but not least set Keep Current for the option ROM messages

 

 

to delay post.bmp

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