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post #7901 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydj View Post


Don't mind me asking, but what is a VID?

 

From what I've seen here on OCN, it's supposed to be the voltage that is needed in order to keep your CPU stable at the current multiplier.  Core Temp and Real Temp both show the VID (click the little button a few times in Real Temp to see it).  I recommend checking the VID while Prime95 is running because if your multiplier sits at 16 while it's idling, then you'd see the VID for the x16 multiplier instead of the VID for x44.  Each VID has its own multiplier.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydj View Post


Don't mind me asking, but what is a VID?
So far, running at at a negative offset of 0.005v gives me an average of 1.384v on load. The temps are still roughly the same, maybe 1 or 2 degrees lower, nothing significant. To tell you the truth, i am happy at this 4.4Ghz. My family uses this rig so i am more inclined to it being fast, stable and have low temps. I do not need it to be blazing fast anyway. So right now, i keep putting increasing the value of my negative offset until i reach the target range of 1.3v to 1.35v?

 

For now, that may be the easiest way.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydj View Post

Will this result in any unstability when using the PC, like all of a sudden it crashes or hangs because there is not enough voltage to the CPU?

 

The only way to know if it's stable is by testing it with Prime95 in the ways that are commonly recommended.  If you don't want to do that (or if you can't because the family keeps using the PC too often), then keep it at stock.  If you don't test the stability, then you will regret it later on.  ;)

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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post #7902 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

From what I've seen here on OCN, it's supposed to be the voltage that is needed in order to keep your CPU stable at the current multiplier.  Core Temp and Real Temp both show the VID (click the little button a few times in Real Temp to see it).  I recommend checking the VID while Prime95 is running because if your multiplier sits at 16 while it's idling, then you'd see the VID for the x16 multiplier instead of the VID for x44.  Each VID has its own multiplier.



For now, that may be the easiest way.



The only way to know if it's stable is by testing it with Prime95 in the ways that are commonly recommended.  If you don't want to do that (or if you can't because the family keeps using the PC too often), then keep it at stock.  If you don't test the stability, then you will regret it later on.  wink.gif

Had to set my offset to -0.040v. I get about 1.344. The temperature difference is nothing fantastic. Maybe about 4 degrees lower. Idle temps are the same. Oh well... haha. So does this mean that my chip requires less voltage to run but it creates alot of heat in the process? I need to try to find a way to understand this. Haha. And also, leaving it like this, will there be any negative side effects from a theoretical perspective? I don't have the time to really test it for long periods of time.
My i5 Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.4Ghz Asus P8P67 ASUS STRIX-GTX960-DC2OC-2GD5 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (2 x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 450 256GB Samsung S182 18x DVD+-RW (DL/RAM) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S22B350T (1920 x 1080) Logitech K120 Corsair HX520W CoolerMaster Centurion 5 w/Side Window (Silver) 
MouseMouse PadOther
Logitech MX518 Barracuda Lite SonicGear Morro 521 
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My i5 Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.4Ghz Asus P8P67 ASUS STRIX-GTX960-DC2OC-2GD5 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (2 x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 450 256GB Samsung S182 18x DVD+-RW (DL/RAM) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S22B350T (1920 x 1080) Logitech K120 Corsair HX520W CoolerMaster Centurion 5 w/Side Window (Silver) 
MouseMouse PadOther
Logitech MX518 Barracuda Lite SonicGear Morro 521 
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post #7903 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydj View Post


Had to set my offset to -0.040v. I get about 1.344. The temperature difference is nothing fantastic. Maybe about 4 degrees lower. Idle temps are the same. Oh well... haha. So does this mean that my chip requires less voltage to run but it creates alot of heat in the process? I need to try to find a way to understand this. Haha. And also, leaving it like this, will there be any negative side effects from a theoretical perspective? I don't have the time to really test it for long periods of time.

 

The only way to know is by testing the stability.  If you don't want to do that or if you can't, then stay at stock.

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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post #7904 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

The only way to know is by testing the stability.  If you don't want to do that or if you can't, then stay at stock.

Oh well, i'll just leave it as it is for now. Until someone complains that the rig is unstable or something then i will just act on it. In your professional opinion, as it is, all the numbers are within safe specifications right?

Temps
Idle: 40 to 45C
Load: 80 to 85C

Voltages
Idle: 0.944 to 1.128V
Load: 1.338 to 1.352V

Offset: -0.040
My i5 Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.4Ghz Asus P8P67 ASUS STRIX-GTX960-DC2OC-2GD5 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (2 x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 450 256GB Samsung S182 18x DVD+-RW (DL/RAM) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S22B350T (1920 x 1080) Logitech K120 Corsair HX520W CoolerMaster Centurion 5 w/Side Window (Silver) 
MouseMouse PadOther
Logitech MX518 Barracuda Lite SonicGear Morro 521 
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My i5 Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.4Ghz Asus P8P67 ASUS STRIX-GTX960-DC2OC-2GD5 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (2 x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 450 256GB Samsung S182 18x DVD+-RW (DL/RAM) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S22B350T (1920 x 1080) Logitech K120 Corsair HX520W CoolerMaster Centurion 5 w/Side Window (Silver) 
MouseMouse PadOther
Logitech MX518 Barracuda Lite SonicGear Morro 521 
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post #7905 of 9343
my 'night rider' unit, P8P67 WS Rev B3
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2577517

Temps
Package: 29C / 55C
Cores
Idle: 25 to 28C
Load: 53 to 57C

Voltages
Idle up to 4.2GHz: 0.944 to 1.128V
Load: 1.288 to 1.320V

Offset: -0.040

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: medium
VRM Frequency: auto
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:
Phase Control: optimized
Internal PPL overvoltage: enable
Duty Control: thermal
CPU Current Capability: 120%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: -
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
DRAM Voltage: 1.505
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: disabled
Edited by malmental - 12/24/12 at 3:52pm
post #7906 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydj View Post


Oh well, i'll just leave it as it is for now. Until someone complains that the rig is unstable or something then i will just act on it. In your professional opinion, as it is, all the numbers are within safe specifications right?
Temps
Idle: 40 to 45C
Load: 80 to 85C
Voltages
Idle: 0.944 to 1.128V
Load: 1.338 to 1.352V
Offset: -0.040

 

I'd rather that you leave it at stock because you're only asking for trouble.  One reason is that if it's unstable, then it's stressful on your hardware (not good).  Another is that there's a risk of data corruption, and this can happen at any time to any file (or any group of files, etc.).  To me, these are reasons enough to either leave it at stock, or tell everyone the computer is off-limits for a couple of days while you make absolutely sure that it's stable.

 

I think that you are better off leaving it at stock.  Besides, do you notice a difference between stock and 4.4 GHz?

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #7907 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

I'd rather that you leave it at stock because you're only asking for trouble.  One reason is that if it's unstable, then it's stressful on your hardware (not good).  Another is that there's a risk of data corruption, and this can happen at any time to any file (or any group of files, etc.).  To me, these are reasons enough to either leave it at stock, or tell everyone the computer is off-limits for a couple of days while you make absolutely sure that it's stable.

I think that you are better off leaving it at stock.  Besides, do you notice a difference between stock and 4.4 GHz?

Yup, the difference is quite significant especially when gaming. I actually have been following your template since last year, but since i was using the stock cooler, i only bumped it up to 3.6Ghz. But from 3.6 to 4.4Ghz, the difference is there man.Tried to go 4.6Ghz, but it just hung when loading windows. Oh well. Thank you so much for your help man! +rep.
My i5 Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.4Ghz Asus P8P67 ASUS STRIX-GTX960-DC2OC-2GD5 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (2 x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 450 256GB Samsung S182 18x DVD+-RW (DL/RAM) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S22B350T (1920 x 1080) Logitech K120 Corsair HX520W CoolerMaster Centurion 5 w/Side Window (Silver) 
MouseMouse PadOther
Logitech MX518 Barracuda Lite SonicGear Morro 521 
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My i5 Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.4Ghz Asus P8P67 ASUS STRIX-GTX960-DC2OC-2GD5 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (2 x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 450 256GB Samsung S182 18x DVD+-RW (DL/RAM) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S22B350T (1920 x 1080) Logitech K120 Corsair HX520W CoolerMaster Centurion 5 w/Side Window (Silver) 
MouseMouse PadOther
Logitech MX518 Barracuda Lite SonicGear Morro 521 
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post #7908 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydj View Post


Yup, the difference is quite significant especially when gaming. I actually have been following your template since last year, but since i was using the stock cooler, i only bumped it up to 3.6Ghz. But from 3.6 to 4.4Ghz, the difference is there man.Tried to go 4.6Ghz, but it just hung when loading windows. Oh well. Thank you so much for your help man! +rep.

 

You're welcome.  Just remember, testing the stability is pretty much a requirement if you want it to be overclocked without any risks.  If my computer were the family computer, then it would be at stock because my parents need to use their laptop on a daily basis.

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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Reply
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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Reply
post #7909 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

You're welcome.  Just remember, testing the stability is pretty much a requirement if you want it to be overclocked without any risks.  If my computer were the family computer, then it would be at stock because my parents need to use their laptop on a daily basis.

Yeah, that i know. Reminds me back when i was younger with my Athlon XP. Now the BIOS is so simple. It automatically resets if there is an error and everything is so straightforward. Everything is AI controlled now and not manual. Back in my day, there was no other way to clear a bad BIOS setting other than resetting the CMOS jumper settings. Or hell, i just found out a few months back on OCN that the best way to prevent bacteria/algae from growing in WC loops was with silver and distilled water and not those colourful coolants were the best option. Or going into BIOS, writing down every possibility and testing for the best configuration. Now, i'm just too lazy, like what i did, just followed your template almost right up to the last digit.

Last year when i was building this i5 rig, i was amazed by how many colours there was in the BIOS and the ability to use the mouse to select options. Times have changed so fast man. Back when i was a kid, there was only 1 PC in the whole house and BIOS has only 2 colours. Now, everyone in the house has a laptop and a smartphone. Truth be told, the i5 i feel is under utilised. Its just being used for internet surfing. Of course, once in a while i would play games on it, but as i get older, rarely. So it came to a point where since i was the only heavy user, (mostly playing games on it), i would be the one encountering the problems. Even so, it happened only once or twice.

Sometimes i wonder how old are you guys and how you can keep up with technology moving so fast. Once in a while, friends come up to me and ask me about up to date PC stuff and i'll be stumped. For example, i only found out that there is a new socket, 2011 a few days ago. Haha. Time flies man...
My i5 Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.4Ghz Asus P8P67 ASUS STRIX-GTX960-DC2OC-2GD5 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (2 x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 450 256GB Samsung S182 18x DVD+-RW (DL/RAM) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S22B350T (1920 x 1080) Logitech K120 Corsair HX520W CoolerMaster Centurion 5 w/Side Window (Silver) 
MouseMouse PadOther
Logitech MX518 Barracuda Lite SonicGear Morro 521 
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Reply
My i5 Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.4Ghz Asus P8P67 ASUS STRIX-GTX960-DC2OC-2GD5 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (2 x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 450 256GB Samsung S182 18x DVD+-RW (DL/RAM) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S22B350T (1920 x 1080) Logitech K120 Corsair HX520W CoolerMaster Centurion 5 w/Side Window (Silver) 
MouseMouse PadOther
Logitech MX518 Barracuda Lite SonicGear Morro 521 
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post #7910 of 9343
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydj View Post


Yeah, that i know. Reminds me back when i was younger with my Athlon XP. Now the BIOS is so simple. It automatically resets if there is an error and everything is so straightforward. Everything is AI controlled now and not manual. Back in my day, there was no other way to clear a bad BIOS setting other than resetting the CMOS jumper settings. Or hell, i just found out a few months back on OCN that the best way to prevent bacteria/algae from growing in WC loops was with silver and distilled water and not those colourful coolants were the best option. Or going into BIOS, writing down every possibility and testing for the best configuration. Now, i'm just too lazy, like what i did, just followed your template almost right up to the last digit.
Last year when i was building this i5 rig, i was amazed by how many colours there was in the BIOS and the ability to use the mouse to select options. Times have changed so fast man. Back when i was a kid, there was only 1 PC in the whole house and BIOS has only 2 colours. Now, everyone in the house has a laptop and a smartphone. Truth be told, the i5 i feel is under utilised. Its just being used for internet surfing. Of course, once in a while i would play games on it, but as i get older, rarely. So it came to a point where since i was the only heavy user, (mostly playing games on it), i would be the one encountering the problems. Even so, it happened only once or twice.
Sometimes i wonder how old are you guys and how you can keep up with technology moving so fast. Once in a while, friends come up to me and ask me about up to date PC stuff and i'll be stumped. For example, i only found out that there is a new socket, 2011 a few days ago. Haha. Time flies man...

 

I'm 33 years old, but I practically live on OCN.  So, it's hard for me to miss much.  :)  Not only that, but if it weren't for OCN, then I wouldn't know any of the things I know.  I mean, before I joined OCN, I thought I was cool because I was 100% comfortable going into my little pre-built and upgrading things like the memory, the video card, hard drives, optical drives, adding a sound card, and, um, I think that covers it.  I didn't dare consider replacing my CPU or motherboard because I didn't know anything about that, so it kind of scared me.  Still, I still remember that every time I walked into the local CompUSA, I would drool a bit over all of the Do It Yourself parts.  They had everything needed to build your own, but I didn't look into it because I didn't have my own money at the time.

 

My infantile knowledge also involved all things related to software and Windows.  lol  I mean, I really thought I knew something back then.  Today, I feel like I don't know anything at all because I can see how much there is to know.

 

So yeah, I owe everything to OCN.

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
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