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Is my NH-D14 Faulty? [nearly resolved] - Page 3

post #21 of 103
It is possible your D14 is faulty. Another member here has dramatically better temps on the Silver Arrow compared to D14 although the D14 and SA are supposed to be virtually tied. This is just speculation but perhaps the D14 has inconsistent manufacturing variances.
post #22 of 103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riou View Post
It is possible your D14 is faulty. Another member here has dramatically better temps on the Silver Arrow compared to D14 although the D14 and SA are supposed to be virtually tied. This is just speculation but perhaps the D14 has inconsistent manufacturing variances.
That is exactly was i thinking. I have read many review comparing the two and that's why i thought mine was faulty, or that Noctua needs to get their $#*% together.
post #23 of 103
Seems a lot of different results are being gotten with a D14
My temps are well above average at 36-37C core/48 socket load temp, and I just recently switched to a case that doesn't even have a front intake fan just yet, my temps may have actually improved from my old K58W setup
post #24 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72 View Post
That is exactly was i thinking. I have read many review comparing the two and that's why i thought mine was faulty, or that Noctua needs to get their $#*% together.
What was your old cpu cooler and what were your temps when you had it? It's possible some 2600K may run hotter than others, same as some 2600K can't even break 5ghz... But I could be wrong hehe
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post #25 of 103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_1771 View Post
Seems a lot of different results are being gotten with a D14
My temps are well above average at 36-37C core/48 socket load temp, and I just recently switched to a case that doesn't even have a front intake fan just yet, my temps may have actually improved from my old K58W setup
My case with the fans on low got me 4-5*C lower temps than with the case completely opened up and no case fans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrolock View Post
What was your old cpu cooler and what were your temps when you had it? It's possible some 2600K may run hotter than others, same as some 2600K can't even break 5ghz... But I could be wrong hehe
If you read the first post you would have noticed that i got 60*C on my highest core with the stock Intel heatsink. Then i switched to the NH-D14 right after and got 50*C. But those results are not 100% accurate because the ambient could have changed by 1*C(and i didnt know what it was during the test, likely 18-20*C). And i only ran the RealTemp sensor test to test#2. So the NH-D14 lowered my temps around 10*C.

I noticed you have the same CPU and HS. Do you mind sharing your temps so that i can get a bit of a comparison.
post #26 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72 View Post
My case with the fans on low got me 4-5*C lower temps than with the case completely opened up and no case fans.

If you read the first post you would have noticed that i got 60*C on my highest core with the stock Intel heatsink. Then i switched to the NH-D14 right after and got 50*C. But those results are not 100% accurate because the ambient could have changed by 1*C(and i didnt know what it was during the test, likely 18-20*C). And i only ran the RealTemp sensor test to test#2. So the NH-D14 lowered my temps around 10*C.

I noticed you have the same CPU and HS. Do you mind sharing your temps so that i can get a bit of a comparison.
Sorry, missed reading the paragraphs not quoted Highest load temps I get when at 4.6ghz @1.36 is 65C, that is with 25c-27c ambient, at night time with prime. It's hot here.

Then it must be the D14. Hope it hasn't made you swore off using the cooler if it gets replaced. It's an excellent cooler, much better than the *gulp* V8 I once had.
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post #27 of 103
can i see how you mounted it (pics)? you have to orient the heatsink according to the 90 degree angle of the rv03.. with the airflow going up out of the case.

If you didn't do this, that's probably why

EDIT: i wasn't implying you were.. i was just makin sure as it is a common mistake alot of people make sometimes
Edited by badatgames18 - 5/11/11 at 11:45pm
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post #28 of 103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by badatgames18 View Post
can i see how you mounted it (pics)? you have to orient the heatsink according to the 90 degree angle of the rv03.. with the airflow going up out of the case.

If you didn't do this, that's probably why

EDIT: i wasn't implying you were.. i was just makin sure as it is a common mistake alot of people make sometimes
Im not that dumb. It's configured to push pull/push.

Edit: I can't believe some people make such an obvious mistake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrolock View Post
Sorry, missed reading the paragraphs not quoted Highest load temps I get when at 4.6ghz @1.36 is 65C, that is with 25c-27c ambient, at night time with prime. It's hot here.

Then it must be the D14. Hope it hasn't made you swore off using the cooler if it gets replaced. It's an excellent cooler, much better than the *gulp* V8 I once had.
Is that 1.36 the BIOS voltage, or the load voltage. And do you have LLC(load line calibration) on? At 4.6GHz 1.39 BIOS 1.33 load High LLC(50%) around 19*C ambient i get 60-67-66-64 after RealTemp Sensor Test.
Edited by nawon72 - 5/11/11 at 11:52pm
post #29 of 103
@nawon72, yeah I have LLC2 and that is the load CPUZ vcore... I will make proper testing later so we can fully compare.
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post #30 of 103
It may be, but it probably is not.

Take these steps to trouble shoot it.

Take off the heatsink and make sure you clean the bottom of it as well as your CPU off before resetting. Doing this you are making sure that no old compound is left behind on either surface.

Apply a small dot in the center of your chip and push the heat sink back on to it and screw it in place.

Do not connect the fans back, just leave the heat sink on by it self.

run your system and put it under load. Touch the heatpipes at the bottom carefully and see if all of them feel about the same temp.

Check your temps, without the fans. Make note of this.

Shut down and install the fans.

Repeat the above, touching the heatpipes and checking temps.

The thing is, even without fans the heatsink will dispurse enough heat to where it will be better than a stock cooler, if it does not, yes its faulty. However, going trough this process if you discover that with the fans on you are getting the same temps as with the fans off, you may just have faulty fans.

This way you can eliminate possible issues one by one instead of trying to guess what it may be.

Also, using a splitter for the fans is probably NOT the issue, run the test above again and try to find separate connections for the fans. Maybe even buy adapters and hook them straight into some 4 pins coming off your PSU so they are at 100% power all the time and see what that does.

Hope this helps and I hope I am not repeating what others are saying, I honestly did not read trough all of the thread :/

Good luck and let me know how it works out for you!
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