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Is my NH-D14 Faulty? [nearly resolved] - Page 5

post #41 of 103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pyro_dude View Post
Do you have heatsink fans on it? If not Id suggest putting 2 sink fans on it and run push/pull. If that still dosnt work try using a fan that has a higher static pressure. You may have to look into higher static pressure aftermarket fans.
Im using the NH-D14 with the included fans and TIM in it's standard fan configuration.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
These problems have been showing up recently. Are they selling to many and losing quality control?
You read my mind. This is what i was thinking after doing a bit of research and reading the review i posted. But i was thinking maybe they had had a bad production run of NH-D14's. I dont know if it's because of them selling alot of them, but they could be getting greedy since they may be coming out with a new model soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1nst1nct1ve View Post
I know some paste takes time to cure before it reaches ideal itemps, but I doubt that will make a 10C difference.

whenever you take off the heatsink (while you were resetting etc), is the bottom of it covered evenly with paste or is t blotchy or just in the center maybe?
The included TIM doesn't have a curing time. The bottom of the NH-D14 has a circle of TIM on it, and the TIM covers most the CPU in a circle. And i dont think the TIM will make a 10*C difference, unless there is some really expensive super TIM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by breenemeister View Post
If I were you, I'd check to make sure whether or not your heatsink is concave. If so, RMA that sucker.
Ill check it later this week, but i hope that i don't run out of TIM. But please let me know your temps so that i could sorta compare and get an idea of whether or not it is the shape of the base. That would save me some TIM, and time from a reseat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaotik55 View Post
Have you ever thought that maybe your 2600k has a crappy IHS and it's uneven? I just got finished lapping my Q6600 and it dropped the load down 10C, and my heatsink is still not flat completely.

Edit:

Look at another user's post from another thread. (They just posted this.)



^Noctua cooler. Keep his voltage in consideration with yours when comparing temps. With that in mind I don't see what's the matter. But then again that user's temps don't look so good(80's) but he is using IntelBurnTest which makes chips considerably hotter than Prime95.
I haven't checked the IHS, and i dont think i want to lap anything. But that is definitely a possibility. It could also be a combination of an uneven IHS and HS which would result in the temps im getting.

I ran Prime95 small FFTs 1Hr @1.48V and got 83*C average temp. This info is in the first post. If his temps dont look good while hes running IBT, then my are definetly bad.

Im a little surprised nobody has said anything about my airflow being the culprit. I guess everyone knows the Raven 3 has excellent airflow.
Edited by nawon72 - 5/18/11 at 10:36pm
post #42 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72 View Post
i hope that i don't run out of TIM.
More TIM here, with free shipping.

Quote:
Im a little surprised nobody has said anything about my airflow being the culprit. I guess everyone knows the Raven 3 has excellent airflow.
I would say that just possibly might be the reason . . .
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post #43 of 103
Some indigo xtreme would eliminate the "need" to lap anything. I'm looking at it for my next build.
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post #44 of 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
I would say that just possibly might be the reason . . .
I was thinking of turning my case so that it is in the standard mobo orientation to see what that does. Do you think i should try this? And if you do, then please tell me what how i should test it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by remer View Post
Some indigo xtreme would eliminate the "need" to lap anything. I'm looking at it for my next build.
Quote:
Indigo Xtreme™ is the professional's choice for the most demanding cooling challenges, and is highly recommended for CPU applications of 150 watts and above. If you operate your CPU at stock wattages and frequencies, Indigo Xtreme™ may not provide significant advantage, and a legacy solution may be adequate for your needs. The extraordinary cooling power of Indigo Xtreme™ is specifically designed for serious overclocking or other challenging applications. With increasing wattage or heat flux, the temperature difference between simple polymeric (grease) solutions and the extra cooling ability of Indigo Xtreme™ increases sharply.
I dont think i need it after reading that. I wont be going over 5GHz, unless of course my CPU can do it with less than 1.48Vcore. And im pretty sure my CPU doesn't use 150 Watts.
post #45 of 103
Op,

First, I am sorry to hear you have issues with your cooler. I've used Noctua coolers in the past and they were spot on. I did notice that some of them lose efficiency at full load but when the ND14 came out it was the best, beating my VX by a few degrees. Second, the voltage you are pumping through that CPU is quite high so you either go on water or lower your clocks.

I think you should take the mobo out and run it outside the case. Test for stability then and post your results. Maybe your Raven does indeed impede airflow.
 
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post #46 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72 View Post
I was thinking of turning my case so that it is in the standard mobo orientation to see what that does. Do you think i should try this? And if you do, then please tell me what how i should test it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wishmaker View Post
Op,

First, I am sorry to hear you have issues with your cooler. I've used Noctua coolers in the past and they were spot on. I did notice that some of them lose efficiency at full load but when the ND14 came out it was the best, beating my VX by a few degrees. Second, the voltage you are pumping through that CPU is quite high so you either go on water or lower your clocks.

I think you should take the mobo out and run it outside the case. Test for stability then and post your results. Maybe your Raven does indeed impede airflow.
This is how you could do it, but you could also just lay a towel down and put your case down on its left side.

Benchmark Reviews says they get better cooling when a Megahalems is running its airflow down-up rather than right-left. They attribute this to the heatpipes being vertical so the fluid phase pools in one arm of the U when the heatsink's airflow is side-to-side. When the heatsink airflow is vertical, the heatpipes are horizontal, so no pooling. That's how the theory goes.

According to their theory, the D14 and SA work better when they are oriented with their airflow going side to side.

Other people point out that the inside of the heatsink is lined with sintered copper, so the fluid phase is wicked to where is turns into gas.

In you we have the first acknowledged user who has a need to know whether there is a difference in performance between the two orientations. When the heatsink is sitting on top of a horizontal mb the liquid phase of the heatsink's working fluid should pool at the bottom of the U, just where it is closest to the source of the heat. You take wicking out of the equation.

I would leave the mb in the case because you want to see if the issue is orientation. Taking it out of the case would change the setup too much. So lay the case on its side and let everything run as it normally would, including the case fans. Then compare, apples to apples.

One way or another, this will be the definitive test.
Edited by ehume - 5/19/11 at 7:46pm
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post #47 of 103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
In you we have the first acknowledged used who has a need to know whether there is a difference in performance between the two orientations. When the heatsink is sitting on top of a horizontal mb the liquid phase of the heatsink's working fluid should pool at the bottom of the U, just where it is closest to the source of the heat. You take wicking out of the equation.

I would leave the mb in the case because you want to see if the issue is orientation. Taking it out of the case would change the setup too much. So lay the case on its side and let everything run as it normally would, including the case fans. Then compare, apples to apples.

One way or another, this will be the definitive test.
Could you reiterate the bolded parts, i don't quite follow. Should i remove the front bezels when i put the case on its side? If i dont, im sure there will be alot of hot air trapped there because it will be right above the HS. And if the orientation of my case is causing my NH-D14 to suck, what should i do? Sell it and get the Super Mega? This was my second choice in HS, and the orientation would work well with my case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wishmaker View Post
Op,

First, I am sorry to hear you have issues with your cooler. I've used Noctua coolers in the past and they were spot on. I did notice that some of them lose efficiency at full load but when the ND14 came out it was the best, beating my VX by a few degrees. Second, the voltage you are pumping through that CPU is quite high so you either go on water or lower your clocks.

I think you should take the mobo out and run it outside the case. Test for stability then and post your results. Maybe your Raven does indeed impede airflow.
This is a lot more work than doing the test ehume mentioned, but it does test another important aspect which is the case's airflow. Ill do ehume's test, and if i dont get the results that i expect then i could fall back on your test. Also, i was using a high voltage so i could compare it to the review i mention in the first post. Right now im using 1.33-1.34Vcore 4.6GHz.
post #48 of 103
I meant to say that you are the first acknowledged user who needs to know the difference between the two orientations.

I am not terribly familiar with your case other than seeing pictures of it. It looks like all you need to do is to lay the case on its side so the motherboard is horizontal and the heatsink is sitting on top of the mb. That big left panel (behind the mb) is a big black piece of metal, right? It seems to me that all the working parts of your case are in the narrow sides: front, top, back and bottom. Laying the case down on the left side should leave these exposed.

As for what to do if you see a big difference, I'd first contact Noctua again. there may be something wrong with the heatpipes.

I just found this. Look down the page In a comparison with other heatsinks, the D14 didn't do badly, but it didn't do well.

I got my D14 when it was fairly new to the market. Have they changed manufacturing processes? The D14 always used to be at the top of the rankings. Now we're seeing coolers it used to beat surpassing it. And you're having problems with yours.
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post #49 of 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
I meant to say that you are the first acknowledged user who needs to know the difference between the two orientations.

I am not terribly familiar with your case other than seeing pictures of it. It looks like all you need to do is to lay the case on its side so the motherboard is horizontal and the heatsink is sitting on top of the mb. That big left panel (behind the mb) is a big black piece of metal, right? It seems to me that all the working parts of your case are in the narrow sides: front, top, back and bottom. Laying the case down on the left side should leave these exposed.

As for what to do if you see a big difference, I'd first contact Noctua again. there may be something wrong with the heatpipes.

I just found this. Look down the page In a comparison with other heatsinks, the D14 didn't do badly, but it didn't do well.

I got my D14 when it was fairly new to the market. Have they changed manufacturing processes? The D14 always used to be at the top of the rankings. Now we're seeing coolers it used to beat surpassing it. And you're having problems with yours.
That comparison makes the NH-D14 look like a mediocre HS.

And just for confirmation, should i lay my case like this for the test:

Im assuming i should leave the front bezels on aswell. And i forgot to mention that i have to remove the top cover in order to connect the cables with the above picture.

Edit: My core1 is 8-10*C hotter than core0 at high vcore(1.42 82*C highest core). This info is without the testing mentioned. I thought it may tell you something.
Edited by nawon72 - 5/19/11 at 8:52pm
post #50 of 103
Hmm. I was thinking of the Raven 1 and 2. Raven 3 . . .

I think I would roll up some towels or something, make some soft tubes to lay the case on. That would leave space for the left grill to breathe.

And yes, leave the bezels on. Leave everything on that is on the case when it is standing upright. Remember, the purpose of the exercise is to compare the cooling power of the heatsink in two positions.

I recall an unanswered question: wicking. When the lowest part of a heatpipe is the bottom of the U, then gravity pulls the liquid phase of the working fluid down to the part of the heatpipe that is closest to the cpu. It is then vaporized and ascends the arms of the U to where it will surrender its heat to the fin stack, precipitate as liquid, and fall back to the bottom.

When your case is upright, the heatpipes are more like a C with extended arms. Gravity pulls the liquid phase down to pool in the lower arm of each heatpipe. In order for the liquid working fluid to reach the hot part of the heatsink, it must travel there like hot wax going up a wick - this is why candles work, BTW.

If wicking doesn't work properly in the heatpipe(s), the liquid phase will stay in the lower arm of the C until heat from the cpu travels down the arm by conduction and then vaporizes it. Only then will it expand to go through the heatpipe to release its heat and precipitate and fall.

Other users with earlier D14's said they were happy using it with its airflow pointed upward, using i7 9xx's and i7 8xx's. From that I gathered that wicking was working, and orientation didn't matter much. But that was then. Maybe now it's not working so well.

It just dawned on me that one could mount a D14 in your case, oriented sideways, with the heatpipes oriented horizontally as in a normal case. In that situation you would mount push and pull fans sideways as well, with the fans on the bottom and the top with the inter-tower space running from the bottom to the top fan. It would be weird, and only doable with ziptie screws (see my sig), but it would be a different orientation.
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