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Is my NH-D14 Faulty? [nearly resolved] - Page 8

post #71 of 103
Thread Starter 
Ill likely be doing the test this weekend. But it's not urgent, so it can wait.

To anyone who has a NH-D14 and doesn't have it installed or is reseating it, could you check the bottom where the heatpipes go in and compare it to these pictures?

post #72 of 103
I'm back after participating in this thread around when it started.

I had what I think is a somewhat defective NH-D14 on an i7 950 (95C highest core at 1.31v with NZXT Phantom at default fan configuration). I finally got Noctua to admit mine was defective and to send me a new one through RMA. It hasn't arrived yet but I will update with temps once it does.

I have also been scouring the net to find out why, and one poster at overclock3d.net mentioned that Noctua uses an expensive, more effective soldering technique in the NH-D14 which is probably the reason the heatsink is so efficient. It's also more difficult to apply and could be the source of inconsistencies in the manufacturing process. (He also mentioned that there are rumors that the solder has recently changed to something cheaper and that could cause worse temps, but there's no way to be sure about that.)

I'll try to take some pictures of base and heatpipes when the new one arrives. Been waiting 14 days already...
post #73 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mumbles37 View Post
I'm back after participating in this thread around when it started.

I had what I think is a somewhat defective NH-D14 on an i7 950 (95C highest core at 1.31v with NZXT Phantom at default fan configuration). I finally got Noctua to admit mine was defective and to send me a new one through RMA. It hasn't arrived yet but I will update with temps once it does.

I have also been scouring the net to find out why, and one poster at overclock3d.net mentioned that Noctua uses an expensive, more effective soldering technique in the NH-D14 which is probably the reason the heatsink is so efficient. It's also more difficult to apply and could be the source of inconsistencies in the manufacturing process. (He also mentioned that there are rumors that the solder has recently changed to something cheaper and that could cause worse temps, but there's no way to be sure about that.)

I'll try to take some pictures of base and heatpipes when the new one arrives. Been waiting 14 days already...
Lucky purchase on your motherboard: with Gigabyte boards you can set your automatic fan control to Voltage instead of PWM. That way your Noctua fans will respond automatically to temp changes.

Just go in BIOS and look in PC Health for the Smartfan settings.
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post #74 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
Lucky purchase on your motherboard: with Gigabyte boards you can set your automatic fan control to Voltage instead of PWM. That way your Noctua fans will respond automatically to temp changes.

Just go in BIOS and look in PC Health for the Smartfan settings.
Ah right, nice, thanks! I usually connect the fans to 12V but sometimes I do have a fan connected to a mobo fan header.

Actually right now since I'm waiting for my Noctua to arrive I'm stuck using the stock fan on my new CPU, so it could come in handy...
post #75 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mumbles37 View Post
Ah right, nice, thanks! I usually connect the fans to 12V but sometimes I do have a fan connected to a mobo fan header.

Actually right now since I'm waiting for my Noctua to arrive I'm stuck using the stock fan on my new CPU, so it could come in handy...
Stock fan is likely PWM. As for connecting a fan to a header, the D14 comes with a Y-cable and the fans draw little current so you can hook them both up to your CPU_FAN header.
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post #76 of 103
Another advantage of a Gigabyte board is that you can test your overclock fully, then simply do a bit of math (stock vcore + x = stable vcore) to determine the value for a feature called "dynamic vcore". It allows you to re-enable EIST flawlessly even when overclocked, in result saving power, lowering chip temperatures (for ultimate silence with 'voltage' option) and allowing a longer life for chips running at higher voltages.

I'm using it right now with my overclock; the vcore goes down to 1.05v @ 1700mhz when idle and seamlessly jumps back to 1.28v @ 4ghz when running intense apps.
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post #77 of 103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mumbles37 View Post
I finally got Noctua to admit mine was defective and to send me a new one through RMA.
So how did you do that?
post #78 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72 View Post
So how did you do that?
Persistence and hard data. Took a long time to do, though.
post #79 of 103
Thread Starter 
This might look sloppy but here is the data from this test.

For both tests:
Ambient: 20*C
Case fans on high(2 AP181's 1200RPM)
Prime95 Small FFT 45min
1.33Vcore

Test 1:
First, some background info. After taking this picture, i put the heatsink back on without changing the thermal paste, thus creating some air bubbles and what not. Then i left it that way when i did this test. So the temps are a little higher than they would be prior to taking the picture.
Average NF-P14 RPM: approx. 1295RPM

Results: The average core temp was 65.773*C so 66*C.

Reseating of heatsink:

As you can see, the backplate is stuck to the motherboard. This did happen the last time i reseated as well. My case was in its normal position when I took the picture. I might be stuck because of the amount of pressure from screwing the mounting brackets tightly.


Pulling with my hand didnt seem to work so I pushed a ziptie through the the backplate to get a good grip on it. It took more force than i expected for taking of a backplate. About the same as the last time it was stuck.


Here you can see the mark left on my motherboard by the foam feet of the backplate.
I then re-installed the backplate and mounting brackets.


If there's one thing i need contact Noctua for, it's this screw i somehow stripped the first time I installed my NH-D14. It has gotten so bad that i don't think I could use it again if i remove it.
I couldn't get a clear picture of the NH-D14 base, so ill have to explain what i saw. The bottom of the base had an outline of the IHS almost entirely on the sides with the spring loaded screws. It didn't clean off, so it is definitely a "dent" and is caused by a lot of pressure. This must mean that the NH-D14 is getting enough pressure on the IHS, or that it is getting most of the pressure and contact on the sides with the spring loaded screws.


Here's a sorta blurry picture showing how i applied the TIM.

Test 2:

Average NF-P14 RPM: approx. 1245RPM

Results: The average core temp was 62.557*C so 63*C.

Conclusion:
There was an insignificant drop in the average core temperature. That means i didn't completely screw up with the installation. So i still think my NH-D14 is not working the way it should. And I think it's due to the heatpipes having poor contact with the base of the heatsink, which leads to slower heat transfer. I tried sticking a thin piece of metal through the crack to see how far it went, but it was too thick.

Let me know if i should post the other BIOS settings. They are not auto or standard. And if someone can find or take a picture of the bottom of a NH-D14 so that i can compare it to mine, there is a guaranteed +rep for you. Just make sure it is large and clear like my pictures:
http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/DSC01843.jpg
http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/DSC01842.jpg
http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/DSC01863.jpg
http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/DSC01864.jpg
The more pictures i can compare to, the better. But no more than 5 NH-D14's.
Edited by nawon72 - 5/29/11 at 2:28pm
post #80 of 103
Are you using a regular camera? I recently discovered I could use the Macro feature to extreme closeup if I pulled back the telephoto to zero. It's counterintuitive, but there it is.

Your spring-loaded screws. Are they on one side only?

About a 3c drop, right? From 46c TOA to 43c TOA?
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